With 16 people needing to be fed on Thanksgiving, we decided to make two cranberry sauces. Can you ever have too many? Our traditional sauce is lovely - full of citrus notes and toasted nuts - and comes from my step-mother's grandmother. If sauces had personalities, the traditional sauce would be a dainty Southern lady and the cranberry onion jam be a flannel-shirted lumberjack. These are ridiculous metaphors, yes! But I dare you to try them both and see if you don't agree.

The recipe comes from a clipping that might be among my oldest ones. It dates back to an article Amanda Hesser wrote in 2000. The silky, savory jam has an acidic kick from cider vinegar and the vermilion bloom of tart cranberries. The caramelized onions add another layer of sweetness and tang. It's a delightful little condiment that makes even tired, 4-day-old turkey taste good while eaten on that most gastronomic of locales: a Greyhound bus.

Make sure you ignore the cooking times that Jasper White specifies at each stage - his version will leave you with a mess of parcooked onions and mostly unpopped cranberries.