Bess Feigenbaum's Cabbage Soup

I know what you're thinking. You're thinking, girl, of course you're posting about cabbage soup. It's January 6th, for Pete's sake, and we're all supposed to be on the New Year, New You! plan. You know, the one in which, just two weeks after Christmas, you swear to get up early each morning to sweat at the gym, eat whole-grain hot cereal for breakfast and drink nothing but green tea and think soothing thoughts about everything and everyone for at least, shall we say, two weeks before collapsing in a heap and eating an entire bag of Cape Cod potato chips for dinner in front of the television.

But no! You're wrong! That's not at all why I'm posting about cabbage soup. Sure, cabbage is good for you, all packed with vitamin C and flavonoids (or maybe it was antioxidants? Whatever it was, it's not goose fat or almond paste, thank Jeebus, because I can't look at either right now without wincing.). But take a closer look: There's ketchup in this soup, people. Ketchup. KETCH-UP. And brown sugar. And you're supposed to dollop sour cream on top. Okay? No diet soup here, no sirree, I don't think so.

It's not that I'm not into New Year's resolutions. Last year I made a bang-up list (uh, yes, drinking more green tea was on there, but so was stuff like "get a pedicure"and "buy a standmixer" (got the former, not the latter)). By February, though, it devolved into a to-do list of wedding-related errands and things like "open a German credit card" and "go to the cemetery in Kassel" and before too long, I hied that list of resolutions to the curb.

This year, I was too busy to make a list. I wanted to enjoy every blessed minute that Max was here over the holidays (two whole weeks!) and we had our very first Christmas at home (which has been one of my life goals since I was a small child - check!), replete with a candle-lit tree that the poor man lugged home the day before Christmas Eve and that is still perfuming our living room almost two weeks later. (Before you throw out your Christmas tree, have you seen this?)

Plus, I was sort of consumed with thoughts about the book, you know, and this other thing that has been occupying whatever spare part of my mind I've still got left (it's not much) (good grief, the parentheses in this post are multiplying like bacteria) (more on that, the other thing, not the parenthesiitis, in a minute)).

So there's no official list of virtuous resolutions this year. In fact, a few days ago I even canceled my gym membership (if you must know, it's because my gym stinks - well, figuratively, not literally). I was pretty sure the gods of January were going to smite me for doing such a profane thing, but miraculously I made it home in one piece. Being virtuous for a few weeks feels like a waste of time when I've got so much more in my lap right now. Instead I've decided to do things like "use up the vegetables languishing in the fridge instead of letting them calcify" or "embrace self-indulgence every once in a while, you mean old hag, you" and I've also decided I don't need a pretty list doodled on good paper to do that, either.

Which leads me back to the ketchup soup. The other night, I had nothing but three moldy carrots, half a green cabbage and several lemons so dried out you could have cracked them like eggs skulking around my fridge. The carrots especially were starting to seriously irritate me. Carrot frittata? I wondered as I stared at this motley crew. Lemon sandwiches? Cabbage spaghetti? No, no and no.

Instead I vaguely remembered reading something about a cabbage soup, but who knows when, my mind is a sieve these days. A few clicks later and there was Bess Feigenbaum's Cabbage Soup staring back at me from the computer screen. As I scrolled through the ingredient list, I felt more and more triumphant. I had everything I needed, everything except for the raisins which I didn't want in my soup anyway, no way, no how. How perfect was this?

Also, as I might have already mentioned, there was ketchup in this soup. KETCHUP. In the soup. People. When I saw that, I scrambled to the kitchen so fast that dust clouds kicked up under my feet.

To start, you make a simple tomato sauce base, really - sautéeing onions and garlic in olive oil, adding sliced carrots and canned tomatoes and tomato paste. But then you throw in a bay leaf and ketchup and brown sugar (and not a small amount either, though I confess to halving the sugar, because I just couldn't bring myself to use the full amount, not with a whole half-cup of ketchup in the soup to boot) and when this has cooked for about twenty minutes you render it coarsely mashed or puréed, depending on your taste, and then you add an enormous amount of sliced cabbage and water and what seems like far too much lemon juice, but do not skimp, please, because the lemon juice is crucial.

This whole messy concoction, cabbage strips sticking every which way, then gets cooked until it's good and silky. Two hours at least. I had a bowl after an hour and I don't advise you do the same. You want the cabbage to go limp and soft, really soft. Practically melting. And you want all those crazy flavors to meld into something a little less nuts (don't worry, the ketchup does blend into the background). (Also, it feeds a blessed multitude, so invite your whole block over for dinner or else be prepared to eat this for days.)

A dollop of something cool and creamy on top is sort of crucial when you serve the soup. Otherwise it could err a little on the sweet-and-strange side. You could go for sour cream or plain yogurt, if you were feeling virtuous (or if that's all you had in the house, ahem). But don't skip this bit either. You want that final hit of bracing acidity and smoothing lactic power, brightening the coldest and darkest of winter days.

My father arrived this morning for a two-week visit and I served this to him for lunch, along with a slice of dark bread. (He always eats a slice of buttered dark bread when he gets off the airplane in Berlin and then, with a deep sigh, tells me how good it tastes.) (Also, he is a cabbage man, if you know what I mean. Never met a cabbage he didn't like.) He said it tasted like the stuffed cabbage his mother used to make, which is exactly the point, according to Zoe Feigenbaum (Bess was Zoe's grandmother and Bess's stuffed cabbage was the inspiration for the soup.)

...

But wait! We're not done yet! There's still that thing I have to tell you about, the thing I mentioned just above. I have been wracking my mind for days (weeks! months!), trying to figure out a good way to tell you all, my darling readers, my friends who I've never met, and I keep on coming up empty. It's just too big, I guess, too good.

So. You know how I said I was hiding from you because I was so wrapped up in the book and all the craziness that goes along with the final weeks of revisions and writing? Well. Um. I might not have been telling you the whole, entire truth. Technically.

You see, that other something I mentioned above, well, it's not just a little thing, though, actually, it is pretty little. With wee legs and arms and delicious cheeks to nibble on soon and a thumpy, steady heartbeat and the cutest little profile I ever did see, already turning 2012 into the best year of my life, hands down, without a doubt, book or no book.

What I'm trying to say is, that thing occupying whatever space I've got left in my mind and taking up all the space in my belly is our baby. Our baby! A boy, our son, due in June. This June! Our baby! Our son!

Bess Feigenbaum's Cabbage Soup
Original recipe here
Serves 8

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup peeled and sliced carrots
1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes
1 cup tomato paste
1/2 cup tomato ketchup
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup lemon juice
3 pounds green cabbage, approximately half of one large head (tough outer leaves, core and ribs removed), sliced into 1/4-inch-wide strips
1/2 cup golden raisins (optional)
Fresh ground black pepper
Sour cream or plain yogurt

1. In a large pot over medium-low heat, heat olive oil and add garlic. Cook, stirring, until garlic is tender but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add onion and sauté until translucent. Add 3 cups water, carrots, tomatoes and purée, tomato paste, ketchup, brown sugar and bay leaf. Simmer for 10 minutes, then crush the tomatoes with a fork or wooden spoon. Continue to simmer until carrots are tender, about 10 minutes. Discard bay leaf. 

 2. Using an immersion blender, process mixture until it is coarse, not puréed. Add lemon juice, cabbage strips and 3 additional cups water. Place over medium-high heat and cook at a lively simmer until cabbage is meltingly soft, about 2 hours. Add water to thin to desired consistency. Ten minutes before serving, stir in raisins and a few twists of black pepper. Garnish each serving with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt.

Comments

[Sophie]

How wonderful- congratulations!!!! :-D

[Elizabeth Wheeler]

Woohooo a baby! Congratulations, I had an hunch at 5th paragraph!
I am delighted for you both and am so looking forward to your stories! Good luck, dont overdo it, infact put your feet up! Love from Ireland!

[Rivka]

Oh Luisa - Congratulations!! How very exciting for you!

[tara]

eep! congratulations! four years ago (my gosh) we had a boy in june. it's a good month. and you shall be great parents.

all the best to the three of you! xox

[Gemma]

Congratulations to you both, that is such exciting news! 2012 is going to be wonderful xo

[Marie]

Huge congratulations!!!
This soup looks delicious and will be perfect for our cold Montreal winters. I'll make it this weekend.
Thanks and best wishes.

[Katrin]

What wonderful news! Congratulations!

[rache]

this made me happy. congratulations!

[Laura_ve]

I've been reading your blog for three years now, but I almost never had the courage to comment on your posts. But this little baby had me smiling in front of the screen, and I am sincerely happy for you. That's the magic of Internet, perhaps.
Anyway, a thousands congratulations from a smiling Italian reader. :)

[Sara]

Congratulations! I had a feeling, the more I read and just finally skipped ahead to the ending.

[Liana]

Many congratulations, Luisa. It sure will be fun!

[Lisa (dinner party)]

How exciting, Luisa! All the best to you both.

[Christina Renfer Vogel]

Congratulations!!! What happy news.

[sarah]

Congratulations!!! I just knew it :) I am also expecting my first, due in August. It's quite a wonder, isn't it?
This soup looks so beautiful in your orange pot. I may give it a try this weekend, although I keep thinking that it needs to be spicy-- almost like cabbage smothered in hot wing sauce. :)

[brooklynite]

congratulations! Long-time reader (I think I've read every one of your posts, many more than once) and I am absurdly happy for you.

[Kelly S]

Congratulations! S happy for you and your husband! I am also due in June, with a boy! Best Wishes!

[Heather]

YAY! I was so hoping that would be the news when I clicked over from twitter. I don't think I've ever been so excited about a pregnancy announcement from someone I've never met. :) Many, many congratulations to you and Max (and what an adorable photo).

[Simeoni]

Congratualations to you and your husband - Wonderful news!Been reading your blog for over a year now and it always puts a smile on my face.

[Abby]

Oh, congratulations! I wondered if that was the surprise...

[merle]

I've been anticipating this news and I couldn't be happier for you!

[Katie]

eee! Congratulations, you two! (also, I can't wait to try this soup!)

[Deborah]

Congratulations Luisa! Such sweet news for a new year ... Wishing you and your growing family the absolute best! x

[Chelsea]

hooray! sooo pleased (and not surprised) for you both! I love love checking in to see what you've been thinking and writing about. thank you for sharing with us.

[Katie]

Congratulations!!! I'm normally a silent reader, but I had to send you my best wishes. I have two boys and I know the joy that is coming your way. and in June! What a lovely time for a baby. Such happy news!

[Bbie]

Oh I am soooo happy for you! That's fantastic, ti auguro tutto il meglio!!!

[Molly]

Congrats, congrats, Luisa!! xoxo

[Jessica @ Quirky Bookworm]

Yay! Congratulations. :)

[Renee]

Wonderful news - congratulations!!

Also, the soup sounds scrumptious, but then again, with your writing you could make cow hide sound so delectable, I'd be skipping work to visit a local farmer. Really though, I'd better make this for my husband ASAP. :)

[jenny]

I'd wish you all the happiness in the world, luisa, except I think this post confirms that you already have it. :) congratulations!

[Shelby @ Lady Gouda]

Wow! Congrats! What a wonderful time of life for you and your family. I love, love love that last photograph. You can just sense the excitement and contentment you are feeling right now. Best wishes, Luisa!

[Tracy]

Congratulations—everything! Happy New Year!

[Sharmila]

Congratulations Luisa! Such wonderful news. Never been happier to hear it about someone I don't even know in real life.
(Can I say I sort of guessed at the news as I clicked over from FB, without sounding like an annoying know-it-all? :P) I want to wish you happy new year and the very best of happiness, both sort of moot since you're going to have both, but still... :)
This soup scares me, because it has the potential of putting me off any other soup for life. I'm going to look that fear in the pot and try it anyway.

[Foodlovas.wordpress.com]

Congratulations! All the best in the coming months. As a new mom I suggest that you enjoy sleeping in and laying in bed, go out to the movies, out for dinner, sit in silence, go to a cafe by yourself, cook/bake the complicated things you have been meaning to, etc. THese things will be a little harder to do once you have the baby. It is the best gift in the world though! Good luck!

[Christine]

You know, I had a feeling with the last one, but I've been baby crazed so I almost always get that feeling.

Congratulations to you and Max!

[Amanda Arthur]

So excited for you, Luisa! We have all so enjoyed getting to know you over these years and following along with you finding your Max - this is just the happiest news, truly. That's going to be one well fed baby boy :)

[Suzy]

Hey! That is one good looking bump!

[Caffettiera]

I'm delighted to hear the news, Luisa. Congratulations! And I love the cabbage soup as well - funny how good things can come out of unexpected ingredients.

[keiko]

Such wonderful news Luisa, many congratulations! xx

[Karen]

congratulations. what a blessing to end a year and start a new year with. and i do love cabbage soup and must make it this week's end.

[Emily]

Congratulations! I'm so very very happy for you! And also waiting impatiently for the book...

[Robin (Hippo Flambe)]

Congratulations on your baby, I can tell by your words how excited you are. My boy who was due in June will be 10 this spring. How the heck did that happen. I look at him and wonder where the funny, opinionated, now finally becoming a real lover of food, boy, came from.

[Jill]

Congratulations! I saw that one coming and couldn't be happier for you!

[Dawn]

Oh, I just had a feeling when I saw that title that maybe...hopefully...and hooray, I was happy to be right! Congratulations, mama! So happy for you.

[charlotte au chocolat]

Congratulations! How exciting! That last picture is just wonderful. Wishing you so much happiness.

[Emily]

I want to echo one of the earlier comments- for someone I have never met, this news fills me with such happiness! Your writing is so warm and personal, I can only imagine these qualities would translate incredibly well into your parenting style.

[Holly]

Well now I'm sitting here at work with tears in my eyes and a big goofy grin on my face...congratulations to you both!

[Kirsten]

As soon as you said your mind was a sieve, I knew. Congratulations! I started crying reading your last paragraph. I have a baby boy sleeping upstairs...they are amazing. So different from his sister in so many ways. You're going to love your new life... And I'm making the soup this weekend. :)

[KellyP]

Congratulations Luisa! This is happy news indeed!

[Jenna]

Congratulations Luisa! I'm due with my first on June 13 as well... it's so exciting!

[Learningtoexperiment.wordpress.com]

That is fantastic news! Congratulations! Healthy wishes to you and your new SON in 2012.