David Tanis's Tomato Salad Sandwich

I don't have much for you today. I've started and stopped this post about four times already. For a while, I thought about giving up. I turned off the computer and went for a drive in the rain, with Four Sticks and Neil Young on the radio. But now I'm back again and since I can't seem to let this be, I'm going to try again.

I don't know how the weather is where you are, but here, it's gray and rainy. I woke up twice in the middle of the night last night because the rain on the roof was so loud. I got caught in the rain a little while ago, when I was making off with two chairs from my mother's apartment, it's raining right now as I type and I assume I'll still be listening to rain drops when I nod off to sleep tonight.

It's been rainy here for weeks, really. All signs point to the fact that summer in Berlin is over, that it ended sometime in July. I'm trying not to listen to those signs, though I do still remember that one August - I was twelve - when my mother and I came back from our summer vacation in Italy on August 11th and had to turn the heat on in our Berlin apartment. We retell this story incredulously to each other every year. This year, though, I'm a little worried.

In truth, this is great weather for working. It's hard to feel bad about being chained to my desk every day when there's no way I'd want to be outside anyway. But the thing is, too much time spent indoors isn't good for the soul either. And I'm feeling a little bit soul-sick today.

I went to TJ Maxx earlier today (or, TK Maxx, as it's known here in Germany, which never fails to make me giggle) and somewhere between the kitchen supplies and the thank-you cards my heart was suddenly seized with an awful case of existential angst. Does that ever happen to you? Enormous big-box stores do it to me every time. I think I need to be drunk to shop there. Though that would probably make things worse.

I hightailed it out of TK Maxx as fast as I could and decided that instead of eating sad leftover soup that's been in my fridge since Monday, I needed to do something nice for myself. So I bought some tomatoes, perfect little Italian tomatoes. Tomatoes, you see, are my desert island food. There is nothing, nothing, I'd rather eat than a tomato. No brownie comes close, no hand-cut fries, no T-bone steak or foie gras. (Tomatoes, my darlings, I love you.)

Then I went home and made this sandwich for lunch. The bread was pathetic, flabby and flavorless and a pitiful excuse for a baguette, but soaked with fresh tomato drippings and olive oil and all the rest, I didn't even mind. Such is the power of a good tomato. I ate my drippy, messy sandwich in front of the computer. And wouldn't you know, it made the gaping chasm in my chest grow a little bit smaller, just a little. Such is the power of the tomato and the tomato salad sandwich.

I left out the garlic, but I urge you strongly not to leave out the anchovy. If you mince it fine enough, you don't taste any fishyness at all, but it deepens the flavors of everything else in the bowl, like magic. Your pretty great tomatoes will suddenly taste like the Best Tomatoes of All Time. And so on. You'll notice that my capers are pretty funny looking - all I had were some enormous caper berries, which I sliced.

Mr. Tanis says to let the sandwich sit for an hour, which I'm sure would result in an even more delicious lunch. But I didn't have that kind of time, so I ate it after about four minutes. It still hit the spot. Sometimes you just have to take care of yourself first and worry about following recipes later.

Folks, I hope you all have a lovely weekend. Full of sunshine and squishy, salty, savory tomato sandwiches.

David Tanis's Tomato Salad Sandwich
Makes one sandwich (here's the original recipe and quantities)

A handful of cherry tomatoes or one beefsteak tomato
Salt and pepper
1 garlic clove, finely minced (optional)
1 small anchovy fillets, rinsed and finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon capers, rinsed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
Pinch red pepper flakes
6 basil leaves
A few tender parsley leaves
1 crusty roll or a sandwich-sized piece of baguette

1. Cut larger tomatoes in thick slices or wedges and smaller ones into halves, and put them in a salad bowl. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Add the garlic (if using), anchovies, capers, olive oil, vinegar, pepper flakes and half the basil, torn or chopped. Gently toss with the tomatoes and leave for 5 or 10 minutes.

3. Split the roll or baguette lengthwise. Spoon tomato salad and its juices onto bottom of each roll (or bottom half of the baguette). Lay a few basil and parsley leaves over tomatoes. Replace top and press lightly.

4. Cover sandwich with a clean dish towel and wait for an hour or so before serving, if you can.

Comments

[Molly]

I just recently learned that New England (where I was born and raised and now live) is notorious for its rainy Augusts. Why it took me until now, 33 years in, to learn that, I'll never quite understand. So sorry to hear Berlin's summer is winding down.

I had a tomato, just a tomato, for lunch, at my desk, both Wednesday and Thursday. I had to stop myself from being too noisy -- the moans were getting loud and a bit embarrassing. There's something about a tomato in August that's just magic.

[Amy]

I'm in the same boat as you, as the Pacific Northwest can't seem to reach any temperature above 68 degrees for some awful reason. Funny how weather can have such an impact on the mood.

I love tomatoes, and that sandwich looks delicious, but I have to admit I am pretty envious that you prefer them to everything-- including brownies!! Sigh.

[michaela]

i'm feelng the same way in grey, 50-something degree seattle. i made tanis' sandwich but added tuna and haricots verts, more than a tomato sandwich an not quite. nicoise.

[Lynne]

Oh my, I must make this for my lunch today!
I have a bowl filled with big beautiful tomatoes & basil in a planter on the sundeck, a new jar of capers in the cupboard but no anchovies.

One of our daughters lives in Berlin and she is coming to visit next week. I must ask her about TK Maxx to see if she feels the same as you...I wouldn't be surprised if she does :-)
She hasn't mentioned the weather but has been terribly homesick for Canada lately, your post would explain why.
Thanks for sharing :-)

[Lyndsey @ Vanilla Clouds and Lemon Drops]

I fully agree with you about the power of a good tomato - absolutely nothing can beat it! This looks amazing - my ideal lunch, perhaps only improved with a little fresh mozzarella, but maybe that is just being greedy! I hope the weather improves for you, its amazing the difference a sunny day can make!

[BF]

i understand this too well, it's been such a tough summer here. fingers crossed for sunshine in berlin soon. at least we have tomatoes...

[Maggie Ray]

Oh goodness, here in Austin we are beside ourselves praying for rain. The Texas drought this summer has reached pretty devastating levels. Be gracious for the rain, it brings life!

[SEO Company Los Angeles]

Yummy! This looks like such a good summertime dish. Can't wait to try it :D
-Karen

[Denise]

I too am a big believer in the power of the tomato and will eat several in about five minutes just to prove this is so.

I hope you see some sunshine soon.

[Betty Frost]

There is NOTHING as delicious as a beautiful, ripe tomato. I would take it any day over dessert. I make a wonderful raw pasta sauce with fresh tomatoes and savor every bite of it.

[Wanda]

Oh my--your sandwich is beautiful. Right now it sounds better than anything and I don't have any good bread I can put it on! Tomorrow I'll have some. I like a tomato sandwich anytime but have never put it together like this.

[ruthie @ the twice bitten]

Somethings are just perfect when kept simple. I think this recipe might be one of them. It sounds just lovely Luisa.

There are great joys with simple pleasures.

[The Food Hunter]

That sandwich longs delicious...there's no way I could let that just sit.

[Heather]

So, uh, what is the green vegetable on your sandwich? Did you use caperberries instead of capers?

[Anna]

I second the soul-sickness from staying indoors (though mine is a result of the impossible, sauna-like southern heat, rather than rain; I'd gladly take the rain now, just for a little break). I like the way you dealt with yours. Tomato sandwiches have my heart, for sure.

[Debra Weiner]

The only thing that moves me as much as a tomato is a perfectly ripe Haas avocado. Your post was moving...and yes, T.J./T.K Maxx-type stores and their unfortunate lighting do catalyze an existential angst that is difficult to displace. This made me remember reading Harriet The Spy for the first time, and feeling an immediate kinship because of her insiting on tomato sandwiches for lunch everyday.

Oh, and the anchovies ARE critical and should never be eliminated.

My husband and I are still missing Berlin. We were there in May in a wonderful apartment on Worther Strasse in Prenz'l Berg. Are we unrealistic to imagine that winter in Berlin could be romantic and comfortable? The thought of trundling into Brot & Butter and snuggling with a big cup of coffee and Stulle seems totally do-able.

Looking forward to the publication of your cookbook!

[maggie may]

Those kinds of stores absolutely produce angst. Sandwich looks yummy.

[Jeanne]

All of this rain inspired me to make the summer pasta you posted. At the very least it felt to good to eat some sunshine, even if you can't feel it.

[Deliciousitaly]

we love it! A variation of this sandwich could also be a 'panzanella' with is salad with dried bread softened in water, cucumbers, olives, tomatoes, basil and olive oil, etc. Very tasty. ...We have sunshine now here in Rome :)

[elizabeth wheeler]

Envious of your lunch yesterday! We are back in Dublin after three weeks of rain in Berlin, I can safely say I have never seen so much rain ... we did manage several really nice woodland cycles and swimming in Sacrower See which was great, back to Ireland where surprisingly it is not raining and we are eagerly awaiting the ripening of our tomato crop ... nice post hope the weather improves!

[Winn]

I had a similar, yet different sandwich in a restaurant in Arles, France earlier this summer. It was bocconcini, avocado, fresh basil, with a good glub of olive oil - served with a few little green olives beside it (the most delicious I have ever had). Every day since then at lunchtime I think (or dream) of this sandwich - full of the rich atmosphere of the south - and I often make a version of it. (I also experienced that bad cold rainy weather for most of july - confusing season acclimatization).
I am excited to see this mouthwatering tomato sandwich on your blog which I can now add to the pot. And, it is tomato season.
- thanks.

[aqua6]

I was in Berlin and Hamburg/Pinneberg in August 1995 and it was so hot. Everyone kept saying we brought California weather with us - which was fine but there was no air conditioning to be found! I don't remember rain during the month but surely there was some. I agree, dark weather does bring down your mood, as does TJ Maxx, Costco, etc. I think it's the fluorscent lighting and the cheapness of it all.

[Michelle]

Hail to the tomato and its ability to brighten the day!

Even though I was born and raised in California, where we grow tomatoes in our gardens all year long, I never liked them until I moved to Austria. It was something about the never-ending gloomy gray days and homesickness that got me to eat the one slice on my salad and then I was hooked.

Thanks for the recipe!

[Liana]

Looks scrumptious, Luisa! I'm definitely in love with tomatoes this weekend. My hubby gets back from a week long trip tonight and I have an entire tomato-themed meal planned for him. And yes, that's how I tell him I miss him. Ultimate comfort-love food.

[lucy]

un sapore tutto mediterraneo a questo panino splendidamente farcito

[Shelley]

I wish we could all trade weather like stocks. Here in Texas we're having record drought and heat. I wish I could trade some of our unrelenting sunshine for a little of your rain. I think any constancy in weather, outside of that glorious weather that only seems to be found in Southern CA, gets to you. Although I much prefer sunshine over gray skies, a little cloud cover and some of that wet stuff that falls from the sky would be nice right now. Wishing you warmth!

[Thetastebudz.wordpress.com]

Sickness of the soul indeed! I hear you even if it is sunny and hot here in Beirut. Maybe Germany is crazy like that with rain. I was in Frankfurt airport toward the end of June, and flights were postponed the day before I were there because of a storm!
Tomatoes are good snacks for me, they are awesome late night if you have one of those raving hungers and you want to eat something light. They are filling and not sweet! I add some salt to them and voilà!

[chilliandmint.com]

Tomatoes are definitely up there for me as well. They are without doubt my favourite fruit! Other foods I'd take to my desert island would have to be crab, lemons and chilli. The sun will shine soon rest assured. Its sunny here in England today and you are not that far away. Love the blog btw.

[Katrin]

Yes summer is winding down in Berlin and I can´t believe it either. Usually I get my "oh god summer is over" panic attacks in October but not so this year. These weeks of rain are really getting to me. Well, all to say that yes, I can relate to you.

Oh and yes, tomatoes. Next year we´ll hopefully have homegrown ones from the huge new garden. If we have a proper summer that is...

[hillary]

As always, you're right on point. It rained throughout the day in New York City, and just the mere hint of ripe sun kissed tomatoes seemed to make it bearable.

[Katie@Cozydelicious]

I just bought a whole bunch of beautiful heirloom tomatoes. I can't wait to mak ethis sandwich! I am betting it's a messy one... lots of dripping. I'll hav eto remember lots of napkins!

[sarah]

Oh, I am so glad to hear someone else experiences existential angst in big department stores! I cannot stand them. We're getting married in 2 months today and need to do something about a wedding registry - do you have any better ideas?

Also, it's winter in Brisbane but I stumbled across the most beautiful heirloom tomatoes at the markets on saturday and have been wondering what to do with them ever since. As I don't have any bread, I think I'll make this as a tomato salad, with some rocket leaves thrown in.

I love rainy weather for writing - it rained here yesterday, but only very briefly, and I wished it would last a whole week. It kind of suits my mood.

Thank you for posting - every time you do you make my day.

[Diana - Queensland, AUS.]

aarrrggg - so jealous!!! Here in Qld - being time poor forces me to shop at the supermarkets - the tomatoes are sometimes green, almost always devoid of the lovely sweetness that I know they're supposed to have...

Waiting for summer..

[Oana from dishchronicles]

I think this is the best recipe you've ever shared. We are on vacation in coastal Gaspesie and it has been rainy and foggy for a week. The soul weeps (and gets pretty cranky). Then I come across this and I too am lifted. Go tomato! And Luisa! And the caper berries...love them!

Oanatomatolover

[Bbie]

As an Italian going through her fourth summer in Berlin (and actually chained at her desk for manuscript deadline) I absolutely share your soul-sickness...just think I live 1 minute away from a TJ Maax and the picture is eerily complete! All the best for your book Luisa, I just can't wait!!!

[Ian]

That first image is the best picture of a sandwich I've ever seen. I know that doesn't sound like a massive compliment, but the photo's just great.

[Suzy]

I totally hear you on this one.
I don't know what it is. August is always a funny month for me, in my head, the year follows the school year calendar and I always feel like I need to address and resolve pressing issues before September.
Been doing it for as long as I can remember.
Hrabi actually said I was acting like Woody Allen this weekend.

[Dawn]

Oh, that sandwich looks heavenly! Just the perfect thing for my glut of tomatoes. I am not a soggy bread fan, but you've never steered me wrong.

[Gemma]

We had a few weekends of gorgeous sunshine in Edinburgh in July but now it feels like Autumn, changing between sun and rain constantly with a cold wind. I'm still hoping that September will be kind and give us one final glimpse of Summer.

[Molly]

WELL now... I had your tomato + mozz pasta queued up for tomorrow night (with mozzarella di bufalo! found it the other day!!), but now, you've got me all curious, could I possible sneak a few finely chopped anchovies in there, also??

Side by side taste tests just may be required...

[Christian Louboutin Outlet]

They say it's bad form to start out a blog post by apologizing in this way, but here I go anyway: I've been so busy with work that I haven't been doing a very good job with the care and feeding of the blog. I hope someone is still out there reading. Tap-tap, is this on?

[monica]

Yep. I ate arugula, ripe, wonderful tomato and parmesan shavings for lunch today. Salt, olive oil. Excellent. Felt very luxurious. I needed that. True Beauty.

And, I think that is what is so depressing about shopping sometimes...so much stuff and almost no real beauty. I've definitely had that moment in TJ Maxx type stores...you're not alone.

[Beth Druce]

Finally got round to reading this and making the sandwich. Tomato sandwich: Incredible. And to say that I totally get the existential angst from TK Maxx point. I used to get it as a child and thought I was crazy. Can't wait for your book...