Pamela Sherrid's Summer Pasta

I did not mean to leave you hanging that long. In fact, I had this post stashed right up my sleeve, but then in a serious case of First World Problemitis, the other camera, the camera with which I took these photos, well, it lives with Max in Kassel, not with me in Berlin, and because he is a PC person and I am a Mac person I could not for the life of me figure out the instructions that he kept emailing me about unzipping the files of the photos he sent me and so I kept bleating, per email, back at him to just send me the photos as regular files already and he kept writing back to me asking me to download yet another program from the Internet to unzip the aforementioned files and I definitely didn't want to write a post without photos because who cares about unillustrated blog posts anyway and for Pete's sake I have standards and then he forgot his camera in Kassel when he came home this weekend and oh my goodness, are you still reading this? Seriously? Because I'm falling asleep over here and I'm the one who's typing!

All of this is to say I'm sorry it took me so long to write again. But look! I brought you spaghetti! With fresh tomatoes and basil and squidgy-soft mozzarella! I hope that makes up for something at least.

This is the kind of thing you want to make when you don't really feel like cooking anything at all, which, I find, is the way I feel all the way through July and sometimes August, too. Maybe it's too hot to cook or it's too hot to eat or maybe you simply have better things to do with your time than stand around in the kitchen, like canoeing down soft little rivers or picking sour cherries or drinking beer in outdoor cafés until the sun goes down or writing a freaking book, but since you can hardly subsist on popsicles or beer nuts alone (actually, you can, but perhaps your family cannot), if you can bring yourself to boil a pot of water for pasta you've basically done most of the work.

The rest involves dicing up a bunch of very good tomatoes, that very being italicized for a reason as your tomatoes should practically glow with flavor and burst with juice, slicing garlic (the original recipe has you dice the garlic finely, but I don't like raw garlic and never will, so I slice it, leaving it big enough for your fork to avoid, but by all means, do as you wish, because I do not choose to impose my tyranny against raw garlic against anyone, well, except for one particular individual whose mouth I like to get close to at times), and snip a whole mess of basil into a bowlful of olive oil.

This you can do first thing in the morning before you go to work, leaving it to macerate all day while you go and do whatever it is that you all do. (What is it you all do, anyway? Really. Doctors, secretaries, grant writers, students, anthropologists, mothers, who are you? Tell me below in the comments!) When you come home in the evening, all you have to do is boil your pasta and dinner is served. If you are, like me, a little more of the last-minute type, rest easy knowing that even if you don't manage to do this chopping, macerating business until two hours before dinner, you're still in pretty good shape.

The original recipe has you marinate the basil and garlic in olive oil all day long, adding the tomatoes only a few hours before dinnertime. But instead I mixed together everything at once, two hours before dinner, and went out to take a walk in these improbably beautiful fields on the very edge of Kassel. One minute you're still in the rather unlovely town of Kassel, the next you're staring at a mass of poppies in a field of wheat stalks and there is a lone horse in one corner and an allee of oak trees in another and you suddenly have the very distinct impression you are on the set of an avant-garde French film.

Once you've boiled the spaghetti and drained it and plopped it on top of your cubed, fragrant tomatoes, you chop up a ball of mozzarella (plain old cow's milk is fine) and put that on top of the hot spaghetti. The original recipe says that if you leave it to sit for a bit, the mozzarella will melt and fat will coat each strand of spaghetti. To be honest, we didn't have that kind of patience. I let the mozzarella start to melt, but we were so hungry at that point that we just dove right in, before any milk fat could coat a single strand.

Now, before there are any, uh, misunderstandings, let me be quite clear: this pasta dish would be a definite no-go in Italy. Italians are, well, let's say earnest about their spaghetti sauces and they have rules about food and they do not take kindly to mucked-up sauces or pasta salads or other abominations (their imagined words, not mine!), in fact, they can be are positively Germanic in their obsessiveness with following food rules.

Yawn. Still with me?

Now that we've gotten that disclaimer out of the way, let me just say that this is a delightful plate of spaghetti and that it had both of us tipping our pasta plates into our mouths so we could get every last drop of milky, basil-flavored, tomato-juice-tinged, garlic-imbued olive oil sauce down our greedy gullets. It was delicious. And refreshing, if you can believe it, and light and sort of exactly the kind of thing you'd want to eat on a nice summer's evening.

Summer Pasta
Serves 2

3 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/4 to 1/2 cup of good-quality olive oil
12 basil leaves
4 ripe tomatoes
Dried spaghetti
1 ball imported mozzarella
Salt

1. Take out your largest bowl. Add the garlic. Pour in the olive oil. Snip the basil leaves with scissors into shreds over the garlic mixture or slice thinly with a very sharp knife. Let sit all day or at least an hour or two.

2. About 2 hours before serving, chop the tomatoes and add them to the bowl.

3. When you’re ready to eat, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. Meanwhile, cut the mozzarella into small cubes.

4. Drain the pasta and pour it on top of the tomato mixture. Do not stir. Spread the mozzarella on top of the pasta and toss only the pasta and cheese; the cheese will soften slightly, and the pasta will get coated with fat. Then stir up from the bottom, incorporating the tomato mixture. Season to taste and serve.

Comments

[Kathryn]

This does indeed sound perfect for a summer evening and so easy. I'm a great fan of anything that minimises the time spent over a hot stove. Thank you for this, it will definitely go into my summer rotation.

PS I'm an accountant.

[Jessica]

This is surprisingly similar to the one (and only) dish my man can cook, minus the green. I'm still working on that.

(vagabond)

[Harriet]

I wish it was summer here (New Zealand) so I could make this, will just have to wait for February!!
-Journalism Student.

[EdwardJNorton]

My wife just loves the whole basil, mozzarella, basil thing but will only eat it in warm Mediterranean countries where you can guarantee the sun soaked tomatoes you describe. Towards the end of August with some heat, my home grown toms are up to the job, so I really look forward to serving this.

And what do I do appart from reading food blogs, I look after my two children, forage, grow and cook my own food and now I've started writing my own blog about cooking from scratch.

[JodiBlonde]

I love everything in this summer pasta. I think I will warm and butter some crusty bread with a glass of red wine and this meal is gonna be superb. Think I will make it for my guys this Friday. Yum,yum!!

[Elsbeth]

I used to make a version of this regularly, sometimes with parsley instead of basil, or soft feta instead of mozzarella. Thank you for reminding me of this dish!

(librarian / museum teacher)

[Suzy]

So I make this Locatelli version with slivered black olives, capers (I think I added those) and all the stuff you put in, minus the mozzarella. And I eat it about two times a week in the summer. It's just so easy and good. I am going to turn into a spaghetti noodle myself one of these days.

[SC]

Man, I just want to dive head first into that bowl of pasta! Will have to see about getting some good tomatoes this weekend to have it as a Monday treat.

I've been a long-time lurker, so this is me coming out, as it were. I'm a half-German, half-American Californian living in London, working as a trainee financial journalist but aspiring to write about food. God, that's a mouthful.

Anyway, I have cooked from the blog many times, and never had a meal that was less than great. I find both your cooking and your writing inspiring, so thank you!

[Morfydd]

You've had summer in Berlin? In Hamburg the city is outdoing its reputation for gray and rain. I will definitely try this should the summer ever arrive.

Congratulations on your wedding!

(programmer)

[Giulia]

I am Italian and I would have cooked it exactly the same way. No abominations, don't worry! Apart from where you suggest to drain the spaghetti and then leave it in the bowl for some time so the mozzarella melts. We don't leave pasta to get cold, once it is drained you have to eat it straight away! :)

ps: I am an account manager

[Ellie]

Looks delish! Would be great for summer. If only we were having an actual summer in England...

(me: I'm a social scientist, studying all manner things related to families - adoption, decision making in a crisis, poverty, you name it)

[Claire]

This sounds so incredibly inviting I almost want to dive back onto a plane for 24hrs to get to summer.. But since I just got off a flight home - w 3 kids - I may restrain myself and wait for summer to hit Sydney!

(full time mum of 3 - soon to be 4. am all about no fuss suppers!!)

[Allison]

I have a recipe from Canadian Living magazine that is along the same lines - Farfalle Bruschetta I believe it's called. And you're right - an Italian person would hate it, but we love it! Very similar to yours, but with farfalle and brie instead, and the addition of some sliced spring onions and toasted pine nuts. Looking forward to giving yours a try soon!

I'm a Canadian living in London, working in a desk job and secretly dreaming about and/or writing about food in my off time. And I'm really looking forward to your book when it comes out!

[Sharon]

It's almost tomato season here in NY! Looking forward to having this for dinner very soon.

(editor)

[Rachel]

This is wonderful inspiration for ways to use the explosion of garden tomatoes sitting on my counter. Thanks! (And I'm a clinical social worker, here at my desk reading about lovely recipes before plunging forward into my day...)

[Jennie]

I've been making a dish like this for years. It's such a quick, easy go-to meal, perfect our NYC summers (will be 95F this week!). And yes, Italians are obssessive about following food rules, but I say if it tastes amazing, then who cares about the rules.

[Jennifer Jo]

It looks lovely and my tomatoes ought to be ready in a few weeks. Yes!

I've been craving your roasted tomato and pasta recipe for weeks now (http://bit.ly/9zwogJ), but the cherry tomatoes are still only trickling in.

What do I do all day? Take care of my four kids, homeschool, cook, and write. If the kids didn't fight, it'd be idyllic.

[laura]

I'm an Italian 25-year old student, and I like your pasta, but I agree with Giulia. Letting pasta rest, bad bad idea! :)

[Carolwallace.wordpress.com]

"bleating" is excellent. Ma..maaeeeehh...maeeeh....

Look forward to making this for extended family in Southern California in August, maybe golden tomatoes and opal basil just because they're at the farmer's market. Maybe I'll practice with the tricolore version when we have good toms here in New York. This week of 90s weather should do the trick!

(novelist)

[b]

This looks tasty as always! You are my favorite blog of all time just FYI. And I'm a chemist :)

[Caitlin]

The stream of consciousness in this post made me giggle like nothing else. And while I'm generally okay with raw garlic (in small doses), I get your aversion to it. The idea of marinating everything during the day is genius though - I definitely need to try it!

Oh, and I'm a chemical engineer doing graduate work in air quality :)

[stacey snacks]

When Jersey tomatoes are ready, I make some version of this every week. Sometimes w/out the mozz.
I love it with a can of Italian tuna even better!
Stacey

[kate]

This is one of my favorite summer foods. I've been eating it since I was kid...always using our garden ripe tomatoes.
Yours looks so so good!

[Susan]

Delicious! I do something similar but keep the garlic in (Kiss me, Internet!) and add whatever kind of briny, salty coarsely chopped olive I've got handy. It's hot here in California so I think this is gonna be dinner tonight...thank you! Hope all is well and you're loving being a Mrs.

(I'm an executive recruiter specializing in high level finance but would much prefer to be an international woman of mystery. Or a writer. Or a lady of leisure.)

[emily]

i feel a little silly saying that i've only just found you (via molly), but it's true. and so glad i have - for your words, for your perspective on important things like canoeing down soft little rivers and standing in masses of poppies, for your photos, and for this recipe, which sounds like heaven on a plate. (also? congratulations to you!)

[caitlin]

This must smell amazing! Basil, garlic, and fresh tomatoes all chopped up together just sounds heavenly. It was definitely worth the wait, and by the way, you have excuses for the delay-- "just married" excuses!

Sincerely,
a managing editor

[Michelle]

Right now I am a wondering soul trying to figure out what to do next. Anyone have any suggestions? Please let me know.

I probably could not let the pasta rest, nor could I make this alone for fear that I would eat it all in one serving.

[Molly]

My husband, who works in public transportation policy, is a Mac guy, while I, a prospect research analyst, am a PC gal, so we have definitely had that same frustrating conversation you and Max had.

A word about my mysterious job: I work in development -- fundraising -- for a university in the United States. When our president, or one of our deans has a meeting with a potentially big deal donor, I prepare them for the meeting by writing a profile about the donor, full of notes about the their business, family and wealth. Most people haven't heard of my profession, but nearly all non-profits, from museums to symphonies to hospitals, have at least one in the back room, working behind the curtain.

Can't wait for tomato season to kick into full gear. This looks fabulous!

[Leslie Kwasnieski]

Well, its so hot here that those green tomatoes should be red soon! Always looking for a good tomato pasta recipe to use them up! Thanks so much!

Science Lab Coordinator (slave) and instructor

[Patricia]

I'm half Canadian half Italian, grew up in both countries and now live in Canada. We make this all the time in Italy in the summer (and in the Great White North too), no abomination. I first came to know it by its politically incorrect name of 'spaghetti alla checca' many summers ago. As for the resting, my cousin Carla in Rome has for years been making 'bucatini riposati', basically a big bowl of bucatini all'amatriciana, covered and left to rest for 5 or 10 minutes. There ya go! (I am a translator and cultural liaison person at an embassy)

[Bev Weidner]

I could eat summer pasta day and night, summer or no summer!

So then it would just be year pasta.

Wait, that makes zero sense.

[Jenni]

I'm going to prep this tomorrow morning so that my non-cooking husband can 'make dinner' tomorrow night! (boil pasta, chop mozzarella. I think he can handle it).
- Jenni, architect

[la ninja]

lurvely. yum.
(pssst, where you type "earnest", don't you mean to actually type "dogmatic"? let the gastro-wrath unfold... wink, nudge)

ninja teacher

[la ninja]

oh, nearly forgot... mega congrats on everything, really.
tardy ninja wasn't allowed to comment but totally digged your posts AND dress (and i'm not even the wedding type :)

[laken]

You are, hands down, one of my favorite writers.

And I'm a graduate student in Alabama :)

[Darina]

This is just up my alley. Exactly what I was looking for in my next pasta dish. This coming weekend, I hope. Unfortunately, summer seems to have skipped my part of the world this year.

I'm a career coach and freelance food and travel writer

[Merry & Mod]

This recipe - like so many of your posts - is on my list following my next visit to the farmer's market (provided tomatoes are there; it's been cool and rainy). I'm a stay-at-home mom to 3 and 5 1/2 year old boys. I write an often neglected blog and live in Central Oregon with my husband and four chickens, who have yet to begin laying.

I'm looking forward to your book. Congratulations on your wedding.

[Lindsay]

YUM!! :o) This is now flagged as something else to do with my tomatoes as soon as they're ready! Can't wait - sadly they're still wholey green... sigh!

production editor

[Frances]

I do like your writing. The colourful muddle of people following you seem to attest to that.

Recent graduate in languages, then English teacher. (The best way to afford to be a flaneur in Paris.) But this September I'm going back to school - to be a patissiere. So so excited!

Good luck to you, husband and book! In bocca al lupo!

[Maegan @ The Two Tables]

Oh my! I just almost cannot stand it any longer--no ripe tomatoes yet here in my Nebraska garden. I wish there were--I have so many recipes lined up to make, and it seems that usually, by late July, I'm in the full swing of things. Oh well, patience must prevail.

...missing Berlin (and my favorite Lidl bargain mozzerella! :))

(Library grad student)

[frankie]

I love it. I was a chef for many years, cooked regional Italian food, and you are right. There is the right way, and every other way which is wrong, wrong, wrong!

Your pasta looks lovely. Macerating (I'm a writer, can I still macerate?) now.

Francis-Olive

blogAuthor of:
mangiatuttadimaiale.blogspot.com
&
tartine-bread.blogspot.com

[Edgardo]

Thanks for the lovely recipe. Looks great and will try it out soon. I have to agree on not having as much interest in cooking over the hot summer months. My wife and I eat a lot of homemade gazpacho these days. I will add this to our summer repertoire soon!

Congrats on your wedding! The pictures looked lovely. And, since you asked, I am a video editor who works on museum exhibits and a college classmate of yours, I believe. Tufts, class of '99. Enjoy the rest of your summer!

[Ana]

Congratulations, first off!

This is going to sound like blasphemy, but we make a similar pasta with Brie (I think it's originally from the Silver Palate cookbook, but I learned it from my grandma). Having tried it with moz once, I have to say it's even more amazing with Brie!

[Tracy]

Gosh—it's never too hot to eat :)

[Martha]

It is basically bruschetta pasta! Sounds really yummy. We don't have very good tomatoes yet...I can't wait.
I'm a graduate student getting a master's in geology and I live in Ontario, Canada.

[Jessica]

Mmm this reminds me of summers in Italy.
Must make this!
(I'm a tv producer -sports)

[Melanie]

The pasta looks yummy. Congratulations on your wedding!!! I've seen the photos on yours and Molly's blog - it looks like it was a glorious day. I'm a long time reader of your blog and I'm looking forward to your book so write away, I don't mind if your posts are late - there is a deadline to meet, after all... I was a Client Service Officer for a Bank on Wall Street in NYC until my department was eliminated during a cost cutting initiative so I'm looking for a new job. Not too much fun but your blog helps keep me smiling :-)

[Deanna]

I tried to make a pasta like this the other day and I didn't let it sit long enough...the raw garlic made it almost inedible. I can't wait to try this version though! I think it will be perfect on vacation this weekend.

I'm a full time student studying nutrition and I'm a server at an okay restaurant...luckily the money tends toward excellent and the customers are fun.

[Amy]

Looks great! Seems like, as you say, a perfect summer dish. It's just a shame the US Northwest is still in the mid-60's every day and cloudy...

I loved your bit about Italian food rules, haha. Food rules are always so nice anyway, even if we don't follow them. :)

And I'm an undergraduate student!

[donaji]

This looks great, I'll have to try it!
I'm a physics grad student with a addiction to food blogs :)