Stephen Williams's Salsify in Black Forest Ham

You know, most days I think I'm a pretty good catch. I have all my teeth, I earn my own keep, I speak four languages and I can cook (at least perfect spaghetti, a decent loaf of bread and poached eggs the old-fashioned way). Then along comes one man and cooks me a dinner made up of a few different root vegetables, for Pete's sake, and a simple roast chicken and I realize that I am a hack and a fraud and I might as well be serving cold cereal every night for dinner.

I guess I should explain. Stephen Williams is no ordinary man, you see: he's a Michelin-starred gastropub chef and the friend of a friend of mine who very kindly invited me over to dinner the night that Stephen was in town and cooking for her.

Now, I don't know if you know this about me, but I do truly believe that fancy food is sort of wasted on me. Give me a plate of spaghetti over a seven-course tasting menu any day. It's not that I don't appreciate the skill and artistry that go on behind that seven-course menu. It's just that I really kind of prefer, say, a plate of boiled vegetables and a good olive oil. Let's call it the Italian peasant in me.

But.

I am not entirely a Philistine. Because as I sat at that dinner table, chewing on a stub of ham-wrapped salsify (oh, fine, five, no, seven of them), I distinctly felt the earth move.

My goodness, it was good.

And also slightly terrifying. If such glory was lurking behind a black-peeled root, what on earth else had I been missing my whole life? What other kind of magic was Stephen able to practice, if given a home kitchen and, say, a cabbage or a pound of carrots or celery root or a hulking rutabaga, for crying out loud?

(Only a few of us will be able to find out - Stephen's leaving the Harwood Arms and traveling in Australia for a while before going to work at the Auberge de Chassignolles this summer. In other words, you must go to there.)

It's too upsetting to comtemplate, really, so instead let's just get down to what actually matters: How to cook salsify yourself.

First of all, find the salsify. Not such an easy task! You're looking for what basically look like black carrots. Black as night, with little white roots emerging from their spindly ends. Here's a visual aide, since I wasn't able to find any to photograph for you (the season is ending, even in Berlin, but remember this for next year!). Buy four or five or six salsify roots. Go to the butcher and get some real Black Forest ham, which should be the cured and smoked German kind, not the cooked American kind you see in sandwiches. You could also use prosciutto or jamòn Serrano, I suppose, though those are sweeter, unsmoked hams.

At home, take out a pot with a lid and pour a couple of inches of water into it. Add a splash, just a splash, of white wine vinegar. Next, peel the salsify. This is a little unpleasant. The salsify, upon peeling, excrete the oddest sort of goo that makes your hands rather tacky and can be a little tough to wash off (though using the scrubber side of a sponge did the trick for me in a matter of seconds). The second you've finished peeling a salsify root, cut it in half and drop it in the pot of water. When you're finished, the salsify should be entirely submerged in the water.

You parboil the salsify, then wrap them in the Black Forest ham you've painstakingly sourced. (You won't regret it, I promise you!) These little packages are laid lovingly in an oil-smeared baking dish (does the oil actually do anything here? I'm not entirely sure) and then roasted for about 20 minutes, until the ham has crisped and the salsify is satiny-fudgy in texture.

Good luck plating these: I guarantee at least three of them will not make it from the dish to the plate. Somewhere in mid-air, you will swoop in, your mouth agape. You will chew and taste sweetness and salt and the faintly mysterious flavor of the salsify, balanced somewhere between this world and the next. You will, quite unlike you, not offer anyone else the last one, but take it as your divine cook's right to finish it.

And then you will give your inner Italian peasant a hard look and contemplate attending cooking school, if only to learn what Stephen knows.

Salsify in Black Forest Ham
Serves 2 as a side

5 salsify roots
1 glug of white wine vinegar
5 slices real Black Forest ham
1 teaspoon olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Fill a saucepan with a few inches of water and add the vinegar to the water. Peel the salsify quickly, cut each root in half after peeling and drop into the acidulated water.

2. Bring the pot to a boil and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Drain the salsify. Oil a baking dish large enough to fit all the salsify in a single layer. Cut the ham slices in half lengthwise. Wrap each piece of salsify in a slice of ham and place, seam-side down, in the prepared pan.

3. Roast for 20 minutes, or until the ham has crisped and the salsify are entirely tender. Serve immediately.

Comments

[Kalynskitchen]

I'm definitely more into simple comfort foods myself than 7 course tasting menus! But there is something special about experimenting with a new food. I've never seen salsify here, but if I did manage to find some this looks like a fabulous recipe.

[Suzy]

: ))))

[olga]

Luisa this is so lovely and now I want to have this for lunch! And, I second the fancy food sentiment. I'm far more of a rustic food girl too! But my real question is this - you have five salsify? Does that mean the cook gets 3 and the other person 2? Or do you have to cut the 5th on in half and share it? :)

[Michelle]

I love simple, well prepared food. I have never heard of salsify but I am sure it is dreamy!

[Luisa]

Olga - whatever number of salsify you have, cut them in half. In the recipe above, each eater gets five, if you're being nice!! :)

[Giulia]

Lovely post, especially as I know your friend very well and knew her well before she became a foodie and ate some unspeakable things :)
What's the fourth language you speak? I assume Italian, German, English...?

[Emily]

Oh I am so right there with you! I generally prefer simpler fare - I feel like I break food that is too delicate! But then I see the little miracles of ingenuity a person with real expertise can create and feel nearly ready to give up on any attempts at culinary invention, or start looking up culinary school info on the google...But then you're hungry for dinner and find yourself right back in the kitchen :). Lucky you getting to experience Mr. Williams' cooking there. And thanks for teaching us about salsify!

[The Rowdy Chowgirl]

It is so exciting to discover a new vegetable. I'm going to keep my eyes open for salsify at the farmer's market, now that I know what it looks like. Can't wait to try it!

[donaji]

My mother used to cook salsify when she found it and I love it! I'm going to try this as soon as I find some!

[Sara]

Having greatly enjoyed some simply roasted parsnips last night, I am open to the possibilities of salsify. If I ever find it. Perhaps it is hiding somewhere with scorzonera?

[Molly]

I have been absolutely fascinated and bewildered by salsify when I've seen it at the market. I had no clue where to begin. Thank you so much for all the tips. I'm not a big on pig, so I wonder if I could get the same result if I wrapped the roots in a pastrami or smoked turkey...

[Victoria]

Oh, Luisa,

You are making me swoon. Even though the calendar says spring is here in NYC, the thermometer does not, and this dish looks so perfect for today!

On Saturday I had some beautiful ricotta from Salvatore Bklyn, and I (once again) made your pasta sauce with ricotta stirred in. So wonderful.

I never got around to answering your question about something to register for. For me one of the nicest things is to have lovely flatware, so if you don't want to register for place settings of sterling, I would recommend asking for two large silver soup spoons (maybe even antique) so you can both dine together on big bowls of soup with lovely, softly glistening spoons.

I am sooo happy for you.

[Bethany]

I've gotten salsify in my weekly veg box for the last two weeks and could not find anything particularly appealing to do with it, and I love Black Forest ham, so I am quite excited about this! I have also been to the Harwood Arms several times and Stephen's food is completely delicious, so many notches above average gastropub cuisine you can understand why has a Michelin star. I'm sad to hear he's leaving; London will miss him!

[Preeta]

I will go to the Auberge de Chassignolles, Luisa. Thank you for telling us about it :-) .

[Luisa]

Giulia - French!

Sara - pretty sure they are one and the same!

Molly - how about bresaola? I'd try that before smoked turkey.

Victoria - that sounds heavenly. :) And thank you! I'm lucky enough to have inherited my mother's silver - I love the spooons to bits. xx

Preeta - oooh, let me know how it is! It looks totally splendid.

[Louise]

Oh my gosh. I grow salsify in my garden and now I have something else to do with it. Thank you so much.

[Robin (Hippo Flambe)]

Perfect timing, tomorrow is my last winter CSA pick up. I will be sure to get a large quantity of salsify. By this time I am beginning to get tired of some of our usual favorites.

Thanks
Robin

[Design Elements]

thank you so much for the tips!!! warm hugs

[Pam]

I just learned about salsify this winter while reading Andrea Chessman's book on COOKING FROM THE ROOT CELLAR. I have not yet experimented with it and haven't seen it in the markets. From what I have read, it is more common in Europe, but I'm going to keep looking! I'm with you--fresh food, simply prepared!

[Kathy]

Hello

Good Day, Nice post here,I agree with you.I'm looking forward to see your next post.

-Kathy
www.healthandwellnessconsultants.com

[Koek!]

I have NEVER seen salsify - I don't think you can get it in SA. Though am now nursing a desire to order some seeds and grow some for next year. I related very deeply to your feelings on fancy food... Would much rather eat well-made pizza or pasta or roasted veg than various incongruent ingredients arranged in a 'stack' dotted with jus! I like food that doesn't seem like it'll be offended if I eat it.

Robyn

[tasteofbeirut]

Salsifi reminds me of old French books; I have never had them (I don't think) even when I lived in FRance. Never mind they look great wrapped in this ham. Simple and very tasty.

[Nuts about food]

I just wrapped prosciutto in fish the other day and here I am looking up salsify in Italian to see if I can hunt some down, to wrap it in Black forest ham...

[jonquil]

unpeeled salsify looks like something my grandchildren would draw 'x' with in the dirt ;) will keep my eye out, though, as even the name intrigues.

[Emily]

Wow what a unique recipe!!! My husband loves prosciutto so I will have to try!! What do you think of some of my recipes?

www.mrscapretta.com

[Brenda]

Luisa, Thank you for making me smile today. I agree with you on the seven-course meal. I much prefer a bowl of spaghetti with a fabulous sauce, or perfectly made from scratch corn tortillas with a fresh spicy salsa.

[Lalique]

Steady, uncluttered technique here. Prosciutto is always a win wrapper and I'm game to try this if I can find the salsify. Wonderng about possible substitutes, as unlikely as that is (daikon? asparagus?) Wondering also about the roast chicken...any comments or tips on that deceptively simple art form?

[elizabeth / sophisticated pie]

you know, i've never cooked with (or perhaps even had) salsify, but i've been wanting to try it... I hear it is just about one of the best winter veggies you can eat. hmmm... with black forest ham? YES!

[Lalique]

Just thought of parsnip as another possible sub for those living in salsify-free zones.

[TheKitchenWitch]

I've never seen salsify. I think if I did, though, I'd be afraid of it. Black-skinned veggie? A bit intimidating, I say.

You are certainly not a hack. I think a lot of us prefer things on the edge of simple. I went to a molecular gastronomy place last year and Ugh! Why eat frozen pellets that taste like fresh peas when you can eat a fresh pea? I was stupefied.

[Newly Domesticated]

I had salsify once four years ago at a restaurant in Staunton, Virginia and have never stopped looking for it in grocery stores! I hope I find it so I can try your recipe!

[Katharina]

This sounds amazing!
You never had to suffer through endless weeks of salsify in your vegetable box growing up, am I right?
It's an amazing vegetable but even the most amazing vegetable can get a bit boring...
What I learned back then is - people keep telling you to cook salsify until it's quite tender but the flavour is actually a lot nicer (and with that I mean it takes a really nice flavour and turns it into amazingness) when you eat them more on the al dente side of the spectrum.

[Chef Richard Bishop]

This is a perfect example of simplicity at it's core. A great dish don't require 10, 20, or even 30 ingredients, and this dish shows just that.
As a chef and caterer these are the kinds of dishes I strive to create for my clients.
Keep your head up, eyes open and you will be amazed at just how many great dishes are out there waiting to be discovered.

[Tascherl]

This sounds delicious!

In Austria we eat Salsify a lot. I recommend to peel it under cold running water. That way it is less sticky and easier to peel.
Here we commonly have salsify as a salad with a dressing that reminds me a bit of what you put over cole slaw. A really good recipe is this Salsify Tarte: http://www.essen-und-trinken.de/rezept/139953/schwarzwurzel-tarte.html (unfortunately the recipe is in German).

[Agnes]

Thank you, Luisa, for being so inspirational! I love root vegetables, and frankly, here in Denmark that is the only stuff really worth eating during te winter months (along with cabbage), so I am always on the lookout for new recipes. And salsify is a vegetable I am not yet familiar with - I am looking so much forward to cooking this!

[Sues]

Wow! I need to get some salsify roots and cook this up! They look SO delicious and perfect for a little party :)

[charlotte s]

what a gorgeous post! I've never had salsify before- but it sounds pretty intriguing! I'll definitely look around for it :)

[kc]

i love a vegetable that sounds like a verb.

salsify to satisfy.

congrats, to-be-wedded one! how grand!

[Veronica]

Congratulations! I like this idea of a lovely handwritten register. Handwriting, uberhaubt, and heavy paper, and, yes, the time it all takes. Yes, take the time to enjoy it. Handwriting and all.
Sheets. Sheets and big towels. Lots of pillowcases.
In the 1980's I received a little mortar and pestle. Many of my guests didn't know what it was for..I did :) but would never have bought one myself. I've used it almost every day, for years.and it still makes me think of the friend with whom I've long since lost touch. I'd suggest a larger, rougher one nowadays! Though you may already have such a beast in your kitchen.
Think the idea of 'something to do together' that neither of you have ever done before is great. Wait until after the honeymoon :)
Get friends to pitch in togher to buy that special expensive thing - you'll not regret it.
Love, too, kc's idea of vegetables that sound like a verb...

[Craig Belshaw]

I had not even heard of Salsify but it sounds delicious!

[Erilyn]

I def see what you mean!
this looks amazing, I must try it!!