Fearn Smith's Kohlrabi Salad

With deepest apologies to William Carlos Williams:

This is just to say
I have eaten the kohlrabi
that was in the icebox

and which
we were planning
on saving
to eat just like that
[plain and peeled]

Forgive the hyperbole but
kohlrabi salad
[so crisp so cool]
is the only way I'll ever eat it again

Now the truth is, I grew up eating kohlrabi and I love it, indeed, just peeled and sliced thickly, munched over the cutting board, cool slices feeling rough against my tongue. But this salad lets kohlrabi come in from running around naked in the sprinklers and dresses it up, gives it some clothes, a clean pair of shoes, a whiff of sophistication, subtle sweetness and spice. If you've never tried kohlrabi before, seek some out (your local farmer's market certainly has the pale green knobs lying around on a table somewhere) to make this. I promise it will become a summer staple at your table.

So much so that your children will grow up thinking of kohlrabi like they do of carrots, always around. You will forget the time that came before, when kohlrabi was just some strange and foreign root you didn't know how to pronounce. Those of you with gardens, maybe it will even prompt you to become kohlrabi farmers. This salad is capable of all that and more. (If your kohlrabi come with the greens attached, try this recipe. It sounds delicious.)

The recipe comes from Ivy Manning's Farm to Table Cookbook and originally included pea shoots, which are one of those things I could rarely ever find in New York, let alone Berlin. So I left out the pea shoots and instead put in a couple of Thai bird chilis. There's something about the dressing and the sweet crunchy vegetable batons that needs that floral heat, just a little bit.

I love how subtle the salad is, how refreshing and clean. The fennel seed and the sesame oil combine to mysterious effect: as you crunch your way through the salad, you keep asking yourself, "what's in this thing?" and then, "I need more." Before you know it, you're ripping off famous poets to declare your love for salad. It's okay. The kohlrabi made you do it.

Kohlrabi Salad
Serves 4

2 medium red or green kohlrabi bulbs
1 large carrot, peeled
1 teaspoon fennel seed or 1/2 teaspoon ground fennel
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 small garlic clove, pressed (optional)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 to 2 Thai bird chilis (optional), minced

1. With a sharp chef’s knife, peel the tough outer skin and cut the stems from the kohlrabi. Julienne the kohlrabi with a mandoline or sharp knife (you will have about 4 cups), and then julienne the carrot.

2. If using whole fennel seed, toast the fennel seeds in a small dry sauté pan over medium heat until they begin to brown slightly and smell toasty. Transfer them to a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, and grind them into a coarse powder.

3. Combine the ground fennel seed, vinegar, salt, pepper, and garlic and chilis, if using. Slowly whisk in the two oils. Pour over the vegetables and toss to coat. Taste for salt. Serve.

Comments

[Suzan]

How funny! I was just lamenting that when I finally arrive in Berlin I will be missing the glut of aubergines and tomatoes I find piled hight at the markets here... And all that I will be able to find there (Berlin) is Kohlrabi - whose spelling I always have to look up before I type. And here you have made this beautiful salad with none other than - Kohlrabi! It will be the first salad I make when I arrive in my new kitchen, well and figure out which box my knives are in....

[Victoria]

This sounds wonderful, especially since enjoying licorice, I like that elusive scent fennel seems to add to whatever it graces.

I love the description of Thai bird chili adding a floral heat; however, I don't know that chili. Do you think I can get it at the uptown Fairway?

My aunt used to grow kohlrabi in her garden in Galesburg, Illinois, so I am familiar with that eating slices of it hanging around the kitchen thing. What a good idea to pair it with carrots. It's so pretty, and I can just imagine the complementary tastes.

[Michelle]

I too love kohlrabi - despite the fact that upon first glance it looks like an orb from outer space, or some sort of modern art, or anything completely inedible. But to be honest, I've never taken to eating it raw. I love it roasted and served with chicken, lemon and herbs. Or steamed and tossed with pasta and a walnut-parsley pesto. But this recipe sounds (and looks!) delicious, and I can't wait to try it.

[Maddie]

You know, I'm not sure I even know what kohlrabi looks like, but you've inspired me to find out. I've been contenting myself to boring salads lately, with lettuce and a few mix-ins and vinaigrette, and some of your recent posts have nudged me to leave that comfort zone! This dressing sounds especially fabulous.

[Jennifer Jo]

This is an excellent post. Beautifully written.

The salad looks good, too.

[TheKitchenWitch]

Hey, I'd much rather eat that colorful salad than plums, anyways. I've never eaten kohlrabi though--is it like jicama? It looks refreshing!

[Elaine Sinniger]

Kohlrabi is loaded with vitamin C and is a great kids snack - sometimes it benefits from being chilled before eating raw - does something to the flavor. Adding black sesame seeds to this recipe would make it really striking. Something else to do with kohlrabi: julienned with julienned granny smith apple and dressing of heavy cream, whipped, whole-seed mustard, parsley, lemon juice. absolutely heavenly. It's easy and quick to grow, too! The giant processing variety, Kossak (takes longer to grow) stores very well so you can be eating kohlrabi well into the winter months. Many packet seed dealers carry Kossak - try Johnny's, Park Seed, Jung, Territorial, or just google it!

[Adrienne]

WEIRD. We are on the same wavelength...I made a kohlrabi salad last night! Not this one, but a spicy green one that I improvised. It was my first time using kohlrabi and now I hope we get another one in our CSA next week!

[Marcia]

Those of you old enough to remember Walt Kelly's POGO, may remember his characters often getting a case of "THE COLDRABIS"!

[Tracy]

I'm drawn to how uncomplicated this looks.

[Jenious]

I will be sopping up every drop of this dressing. So good.

p.s. - Have you read the cookbook "Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes: Recipes from a Modern Kitchen Garden" by Jeanne Thiel Kelley? I have a feeling it may spark your fancy. It's one of my favorites.

[Caitlin]

William Carlos Williams is from my hometown! I'll take that as a sign that I need to make kohlrabi, although the pictures did a pretty good job of convincing me already.
http://amusebouche-caitlin.blogspot.com

[Ron Stone]

I've never heard of kohlrabi before but it looks delicious and perfect for a summer meal. Thanks for the recipe. I'll pass it on to my wife. She will love it.

[Samantha]

Thank you kindly for posting a recipe about my favorite vegetable! YES that's right, here I am declaring in public my love of an unpopular vegetable. Hopefully the popularity status of kohlrabi will take off thanks to your efforts!

[The French @ crispytarts]

I just saw kohlrabi at the market the other day! Can't wait to try this! And fennel in the dressing? WTF? Sounds amazing. Thanks for this:)

[michaela]

just picked up some kohlrabi yesterday to make this favorite salad. maybe i'll try your version with the chilis.

[Luisa]

Victoria - you just might. It's a very small, very hot red chili. You can always substitute a jalapeño, in case you don't find the bird chilis.

Jennifer Jo - thank you!!

Kitchen Witch - no, it has a sweet, crunchy, very mild cabbage flavor. SUPER refreshing. I love it.

Jenious - I haven't, but I've heard great things. On the list! :)

Samantha - go you!! I love that it's your favorite.

[The Rowdy Chowgirl]

LOVED the William Carlos Williams tribute...I have grown kohlrabi in my garden--it is surprisingly low maintenance and satisfying to grow, and delicious freshly harvested.

[Marion]

Hello,
can anybody tell me the German word for 'Thai bird chili' ? I couldn't find any translation for it in my dictionary.

[Heather]

never had it, but i'm willing to try! the salad looks great :)

[Alison]

How timely....I have a huge kohlrabi in my fridge from my CSA basket (with greens attached). I've never, ever tried it....and now I know what I'm going to make! =)

[Lexi]

This looks so refreshing and yum. As does your new banner - so pretty!

[KT]

Never eaten kohlrabi - but I love cabbage salads so I will keep my eye out for some at the farmers' market this weekend.

[Jennie]

Thank you so much for posting a recipe for kohlrabi! I guess I got lucky that you moved back to Berlin! I live in Munich and seem to get kohlrabi every other week in my Ökokiste (CSA box). I've been having a really hard time trying to figure out what to do with it. (I tried it in an Indian veggie dish recently peeled and baked in the oven together with potatoes, carrots and cauliflower - it was ok, but somehow a bit too sweet for the mix). To top it off, a friend of mine and I have a garden plot that we're renting through the city here and guess what... we're growing kohlrabi! I guess I'd better get cracking and try this recipe out.

[Hande]

hmm, this looks like an asian-inspired version of Nicky's Mikado Salad (http://www.deliciousdays.com/archives/2007/01/25/mikado-salad/). Have to try this one, too!

[Britt]

We've been getting a few Asian-like vegetables from our CSA lately. No kohlrabi yet, but I've been looking for sides/supplemental dishes to round out our "Asian nights". This looks perfect! Can't wait to try it.

[kickpleat]

Last year we had kohlrabi in our CSA & I ended up just making soup. This year I'm looking forward so I can make this. Looks beautiful.

[Karen]

Love this poem. I loved it in high school English and still think about it. In fact, I used it on my own blog (URL below) in a post about marshmallows.

I guess this means I should make this salad, huh?

[gretchen]

yes, gorgeous purple kohlrabi is in at our local farmer's market just now. we had a really yummy salad two nights ago. your recipe looks delicious. and yes, the kids loved it. also, kohlrabi looks slightly like an alien spaceship, which helps.

[Theperfectpastry.blogspot.com]

How timely was this post? I've been walking past the kohlrabi at my farmer's market for a few weeks now, and I've been wondering what to do with it. I'm curious: what did you eat with the salad? I have some Chinese noodles laying around, so I think I may toss together some sort of stir-fry.

[rebecca]

I've always loved this poem, love plums, and now, I might love kohlrabi. You've inspired me to find some and make the salad. (It helps that I have 5 pounds of carrots I need to use up.)

[joyce]

This is lovely. My grandmother use to make me something similar with cucumbers.
http://chasingjamesbeard.com/

[Stacey]

Welcome (back) to Berlin! I found you through the article in the Exberliner.. and made this salad last night and had a really hard time sharing. Thank you for posting it!

[noëlle {simmer down!}]

Thanks for reminding me of a forgotten vegetable! My mom used to grow kohlrabi when we were kids, but I never see it in the supermarkets. Maybe it's more of a German-American thing? (Her mother's side was German...) She never made anything as fancy as this; just served it to us peeled and sliced with salt, but I love the idea of kohlrabi salads. I'm going to make a point to look for this at the next farmers' market.

[alexia]

Oh yeah! Made this tonight in the food processor as Kohlrabi-slaw (I have no patience for slicing, dicing). I added Thai chili oil in place of the bird chili and a fresh fennel bulb instead of the seed. Added some cilantro too because, well, I'm addicted. So, so good.

[Peggy]

Thank you for sharing this recipe - made it this week, and it was delicious and refreshing, and I felt virtuous eating such a healthy dish!

[Maytina]

The chicken looks great, I'm not huge on mustard but it looks like I'm horribly missing out! I'd love to see a photo of your recipe binder!

[Shelley]

I grew up with my grandmother from Czechoslovakia growing kohlrabi in her garden. She is long gone and I have finally grown kohlrabi in my own garden this year. So far I've only roasted it -- and it was lovely! Am trying your salad recipe next. And NEXT year I'm planting MORE!

[Danaslatkin]

Printed this one out - looks like another keeper. Am thinking of perhaps sprinkling in a few golden raisins.