Kim Boyce's Olive Oil Cake

Here's a little story for you. One day, years ago, I read an article in the Los Angeles Times about a pastry chef named Kim Boyce who was learning how to bake muffins with whole-grain flours so she could feed her two little girls snacks that were delicious and healthy at once. Sounds sort of familiar, doesn't it? Except the recipes included were anything but familiar. Kamut muffins made with Cotswold cheese, or oat flour muffins studded with apples, these muffins sounded...spectacular. I made a batch of whole-wheat muffins with yielding pockets of roasted sweet potatoes and mooned over the whole batch.

A few years later, sitting at my desk at the company where I edited cookbooks, an agent sent me a proposal for a book. Written by Kim Boyce. But instead of a book of muffins, I found a proposal for a book stuffed with dozens and dozens and dozens of recipes, for cakes, breads, pie doughs, and more, all made with different kinds of whole-grain flours, all bound together by Kim's brilliant philosophy: that whole-grain flours shouldn't just be eaten for their nutritional value, but rather for the subtle and delicious flavors each one had, especially when combined intelligently with flavorings like ripe apricots, dark chocolate, damp Muscovado sugar, rhubarb-hibiscus compote or fresh herbs.

Like I said. Brilliant. It took me one read through Kim's proposal to know that I had to publish her book. And also bake every single thing she mentioned.

So yes, this isn't an impartial post. This post is about as biased as you're going to get. But trust me when I tell you this book is a marvel. I don't know how to pick which recipe is worth the price of the book, because each one is.

Chewy, pliant flatbreads made with amaranth flour, sprinkled with herbs and griddled on a cast-iron pan? We ate them coming off the stove, fingers hot and oily. They were gone in minutes.

Oatmeal cookies, palm-sized and iced with Jackson Pollockian drizzles, made with a mix of flours like barley, oat, millet and rye. Just as chewy and perfect as the ones you get at the convenience store. Except, you know, better.

From graham crackers made with teff flour to chocolate babka made with Kamut flour to flaky rye pie dough to homemade cereal uncannily resembling Grape-Nuts, made with graham flour and buttermilk, everything in this book is wonderful. Delicious. Interesting. A classic. Things I'll be making and baking until I'm old and gray, I know it.

The point is not that you're remaking classic recipes as healthy alternatives, but rather that Kim's desserts are stand-alone gems in their own right. You'll find yourself craving her whole-wheat chocolate chip cookies because they taste better, full-flavored and rich, than others you've made before, not because they're made with whole-wheat flour. You're also learning that whole-grain flours have subtle flavors to be teased out.

Did you know that corn flour shines when paired with bright, fruity notes? Or that oat flour has a milky flavor best paired with chocolate or butter? Amaranth is grassy and meant to be mixed with musky sugars like Muscovado. Buckwheat is faintly bitter and needs fall fruits to show off its complex character. Kim put an enormous amount of work into this book - every page is filled with information. I learned so much working on this book and cooking from it.

My most recent discovery from its pages is this humble-sounding Olive Oil Cake. Ho-hum, you might say. Haven't we been here before? It's probably citrus-flavored, you think, and a little boring. Okay, so listen to this. First of all, it uses a combination of spelt flour and all-purpose flour. Just so that the cake has a little character, a sturdy little crumb, appealingly speckled. Then, you add chopped dark chocolate and minced fresh rosemary.

I know. I did not think I would ever be a fan of rosemary in cake. I like it on my potatoes just fine, but in my desserts? Nah, no thanks.

Silly me. If anyone was going to make the combination not only seem right, but essential, it'd be Kim. I don't know how she figured this out, but the fruity olive oil, the dark funk of the chocolate and the herbal, aggressive rosemary combine in the heat of the oven to produce the most astonishing thing: a simple tea cake that tastes complex and deep and delicious, with a flavor that is very, very difficult to put your figure on. It tastes so bewitchingly good, you will find yourself thinking about the cake the day after you make it, and the day after that as well, trying to find excuses to bake another round of it. Pretty wonderful.

Do you ever pick up a book and just sort of feel like you were meant to be holding it, that if you could be kindred spirits with an object, that book would be it? That's how I feel about Good to the Grain. I clutch it to my chest periodically, find myself poring over the pages, the rich colors and photos, getting hungry with each passing page. Yes, if books could be kindred spirits, this one would be mine. Its author already is.

Olive Oil Cake
Serves 8

Kim's note: You don't need to use a specialty olive oil for this cake. But if you have one with a lot of flavor, the cake will be that much better.

Olive oil for the pan
3/4 cup spelt flour
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3 eggs
1 cup olive oil
3/4 cup whole milk
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate (70% cacao), chopped into 1/2-inch pieces

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. (175 degrees C.). Rub a 9 1/2-inch fluted tart pan with olive oil.

2. Sift the dry ingredients into a large bowl, pouring any bits of grain or other ingredients left in the sifter back into the bowl. Set aside.

3. In another large bowl, whisk the eggs thoroughly. Add the olive oil, milk and rosemary and whisk again. Using a spatula, fold the wet ingredients into the dry, gently mixing just until combined. Stir in the chocolate. Pour the batter into the pan, spreading it evenly and smoothing the top.

4. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the top is domed, golden brown, and a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. The cake can be eaten warm or cool from the pan, or cooled, wrapped tightly in plastic, and kept for 2 days.

Comments

[Tyla Fowler]

Oh my god this olive oil cake sounds exquisite! I can't wait to try it and I'm so happy to find a non-citrus based version.
Tyla

[tara]

This book looks brilliant, straight to the top of my list. In bold. And your unabashed bias is welcome, love your enthusiasm.

[Megan]

SOLD!

[The Leftoverist]

We eat lots of whole grains around here--in salads, cereals, etc. But I've also been a little shy about baking with them for fear I'll end up with doorstoppers. Your description of Kim's book was enticing. I can't wait to make this cake.

[Dawn (KitchenTravels)]

I've been coveting this book anyway, but your description of the olive oil cake has me swooning. Years ago I attended a work event at a restaurant in Palo Alto (can't remember the name), where they offered little platters of miniature truffles as part of the dessert course. One of the flavors was dark chocolate and rosemary, and let me tell you, it was out of this world. So yeah, I definitely have to make this cake.

Speaking of books... how is yours going? The anticipation is killing me!

[jennifer selvin]

Luisa: thank you for bringing this book to birth! The multigrain pancakes are the best pancakes I've ever had, deeply flavored with molasses and nutmeg. And the barley strawberry scones are a marvel. I can't wait to bake everything in this book. And for Bay Area people, Kim Boyce will be at Omnivore Books on May 24th.

[Tracy]

I would love to bake with different grains, but I'm confident I would have a hard time tracking down most. Should I just go looking in the organic vege section of my market or is there a place online that has everything I could ever dream of (without breaking the bank)?

[Adrianna from A Cozy Kitchen]

This book is gorgeous. I've flipped through it a few times at the bookstore but haven't been able to spend the money for it. But now, I'm totally convinced. The olive oil cake sounds so special and nothing like I've seen before.

[noëlle {simmer down!}]

I think rosemary in desserts can be lovely if it's not heavy-handed. I made a rosemary-olive oil cake a few months ago, and just had a rosemary crème brulée at a restaurant, and both were just right. I've never tried it with chocolate, though- sounds intriguing!

[Maggie]

This book is a gem. Thanks for helping it come to be!

[The French @ crispytarts]

I'm buying this book today. Done!

[Deanna]

I want your old job. I want to read cookbooks for a living.

Oh, and that cake sounds pretty spectacular too.

[notyet100]

book looks too good,..

[Jennifer Jo]

You sure do know how to sell a product! I'm intrigued. And that's putting it mildly.

I love rosemary on my popcorn---I'm wondering if a little freshly ground cornmeal would go good in the cake... I guess I'll just have to make it and see!

[brooklynite]

funny, deb at SK was just raving about this book in a post - your post put me over the edge. Will buy soon!

[Heather]

i bookmarked almost every page of this book and cooked a couple things - the buckwheat pancakes and the spelt currant scones - both are so good.

i can't wait to whip up the choco chip cookies, and now this cake sounds some sort of excellent! i contemplated going page by page and baking it all, but i can't afford to buy new pants.....

[Jocelyn]

I have the book but haven't had a chance to explore it yet. Thanks for the motivation. BTW, I think you mean Jackson Pollack, not Jasper Johns :-).

[Jill]

*Sigh* Luisa, I love the way you write. You make everything sound delicious. I think I need to run out and buy this book right this minute!

[Dana]

Man, between you and Deb over at Smitten Kitchen, I don't see how I can NOT buy this book -- which puts a cramp in this whole "cookbook-buying moratorium" I'm trying to institute in my house. Alas...

[Giovanna]

I've already tried the Graham Nuts, the whole wheat chocolate chip cookies (brilliant!), and the crumble bars (with sour cherry jam)--this cake is next on my list. Oh, and the oatmeal cookies, the buckwheat poppy seed cookies, the hazelnut honey cookies...

Thanks, Luisa, for helping it come along...and thanks also to Kim, for writing it--such an exciting book!

[Patty]

I too clipped the LA Times article and have been making her kamut/cotswald/chard muffins and the sweet potato ones ever since. All I wanted for Mother's Day was this book! How thrilled I am to know that you were involved in its publication! Your photos do it justice too, for it is a gorgeous book.

[Martina]

Having baked a less than mediocre olive oil cake not too long ago, I was set not to try another one and didn't feel drawn to this post - but before I knew, I was intrigued by your description of what seems to be Kim's passion.
This cake sounds so wonderful that I can't wait to give this olive oil cake a try...

And that book!! I think I will have to get it...

[Sara]

need. this. book.

[Vanessa]

Thanks for the wonderful tip about the book - I love it and now it's top of my list. Beautiful photo of the cake - I remember seeing olive oil cake in London but never tried it. Will let you know how I get on. Take care dear Luisa!

[Pam]

How I would love to be your neighbor, not because I would expect goodies delivered to my door; but the wonderful aromas coming from your kitchen would be such a treat! I am presently working my way through BAKED, but will soon add GOOD TO THE GRAIN to my kitchen library. I love BAKED by the way!

[Joanne]

This dish is already on my wish list...the olive cake sounds just delicious. I love that it has rosemary in it!

[jenny]

this book was already on my wish list ... now that I know you edited it, I want it twice as much. have been making her sweet potato & date muffins ever since that l.a. times piece. I can't wait to add more whole grain baked deliciousness to my repertoire. congrats on your role in this beautiful book!

[Jacqui]

This book sounds wonderful and that cake sounds amazing! What a great combination of flavors. I've added it to my list of must buy books!

[Jennie]

I've been baking a lot with a local flour from the Greenmarket (in your old NYC stomping grounds). It's called Farmer Ground flour from the finger lakes region. They have a half-white blend and also a whole grain "all purpose" flour which is wonderful.

I use it interchangeably in any recipe that calls for APF (even pizza dough). You'll have to be sure and pick some up on your next NYC visit. Here's a little more about it (and hope you don't mind me posting a link here in the comments) http://www.injennieskitchen.com/2010/05/whole-grain-pizza-crust.html

[Rose-Anne]

Wow wow WOW! My kitchen and I need this book. Yes, we do, even though we both agree that we already have more cookbooks than we can love. But I've been daydreaming about buying a whole-grain cookbook for a while now, and this one sounds amazing. I too am very intrigued by the focus on flavor and combinations, so I think it will be an educational read too!

It's so wonderful to get a cookbook recommendation from you, Luisa. The only thing better will be reading a book that you wrote.

[the lacquer spoon]

Interesting book and recipe! I have a dessert stomach, so need healthy puds like this daily :)

[kitchen tables]

I wish I had that book! It looks so nice. I am thinking of the recipes inside it.

[Luisa]

Jennifer - thanks for mentioning the event!

Tracy - whole grain flours are really easy to find now. At the crummy Key Foods in my old neighborhood in Queens there was a whole Bob's Red Mill display of almost every flour Kim calls for you. You can also find quite a few at places like Whole Foods, Garden of Eden, etc.

Jocelyn - thanks for catching that... I was in a rush! :)

Jill - thank you!

Pam - so glad you love Baked!

Jennie - I saw that stand all the time when I was still in NYC but never bought any of their flours. Glad to hear they work well!

[Katrina]

This cake looks so good! I've never heard of olive oil cake before, and the title makes it sound weird. But, I know from the recipe it will be scrumptious!

[Mmaxx27]

Awesome site, discovered it yesterday afternoon, and made two recipes last night. Ethiopian Honey and spice bread and the Gnocci with tomato sauce. Fantastic!!!! Bread came out HUGE and is great with cream cheese and honey, YUM YUM YUM YUM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[kt]

I just bought this book last week and made the buckwheat scones. Earthy & delicious! I want to make the sand cookies, but can't find kamut flour...

[Healthy Foods Blog]

For those who had bought the book already, does this book friendly to starters like me? I would like to know first before to have one.

- Tera

[Bonnie Small]

recently I've been trying to learn more/cook more using whole grains. About a month ago I tripped over a post on 101 Cookbooks about Figgy Buckwheat Scones (from this cookbook!)Since the post referenced you, Louisa, I ordered it on Amazon within minutes and was just reading another chapter tonight when I decide to check in on my favorite Wednesday Chef - and there before my eyes was the book I had on the desk before me! BRILLIANT JOB - thanks for seeing it for the gem it is!

[la ninja]

ay carambeeer, not sure the short-circuit in my head has been provoked by your delightfully written post of by my dribbling all over the keyboard (which is never a good plan, anyway.) need more coffee, that's for sure.

many danke :)

[rach]

I came by to talk about the chicken, lentils and raddichio which I finally made two days ago - a wonderful and tasty one pot supper. I am making it again on Saturday.
I like the sound of both the book and the cake. I've started using olive oil in my baking -being that it's so good and plentiful around here- my latest preoccuation is a Sicilian orange and olive oil cake. This is next.

[ann]

I literally just bopped over to amazon and ordered two copies: one for me and one for my mother-in-law who was gifted with a "diversity of flours" by her daughter for Mother's day (I gave her a diversity of flowers ;-) Good work Luisa! It looks fantastic, I can't wait to bake from it!

[Mag]

The book sounds fantastic - if you're looking for a good flour source in Berlin, try Mehlstuebchen on Leberstrasse in Schoeneberg. I discovered them 3 years ago and haven't stopped baking bread since. Amazing range of flours and really good prices.

[Allison]

Your post made me run right out and buy the book! Your photos were lovely.

[Jessica]

I am going to have to check this out. It is a fabulous idea and I'm a horrible baker so I hate it when they just mention whole grain substitutions you can do... I always end up with hockey pucks.

I also love cookbooks that have both beautiful pictures and that I can actually read. Thx

[tasteofbeirut]

Thanks for reviewing this book; I may buy it now~ sounds interesting and since I cook with olive oil I might as well bake with it!

[Molly]

Isn't this book LOVELY?! I've felt the same way, toting it here and there, finding something new every time. The oatmeal pancakes are fantastic (and I thought I'd already mastered those, handsomely). I hadn't even landed yet on this one. Oh, my.

[Elisabet Figueras]

I have this book too and I love it.
Great post!!!

[Angela]

I am also baking my way through this book...yes every recipe is wonderful!

[Meredi]

Hey thanx for that...love the graininess!

[Rach]

This cake is genius... I made it at the weekend, but I couldn't find any spelt flour (anyone know where I can get it easily in the UK without ordering online??) so I substituted wholemeal. I loved it. I now have the book on order!! Thanks Luisa