Corinne Trang's Rice Porridge with Chicken and Lemon Grass (Chao xa ga)

I have been doing a lot of stock-cooking lately. Beef bones, chicken wings, bay leaves, peppercorns - these all have moved to the front of the burner lately as I adjust to a life without ready-made chicken or beef stock base in my fridge. Who would have thought that of all the goods stocked in an American grocery store, I'd come to miss Better Than Bouillon most of all? Not I.

First of all, I underestimated my reliance on it. Second of all, I had no idea that it would be so hard to come by anything other than granulated bouillon (ick) or very, very expensive jars of chicken stock (we're talking 2-cup servings for, oh, 5, 6, 7 euros a pop) in Germany. So I make a lot of stock these days. Combine that with the fact that I have the most adorably tiny freezer (if by adorable you understand that I mean infuriating) and my new normal is coming up with weekly reasons to eat soup.

Of course, as I'm sure many of you would love to yell at the screen right now, Better Than Bouillon, even if miles - many of them - better than granulated, does not hold a candle to homemade stock or broth. Still! I loved it so. It really was a cornerstone of my kitchen. Anyway.

S. Irene Virbila wrote the loveliest article the other day about congee, Chinese rice porridge, a simple meal of rice cooked in water that you then get to gussy up with all kinds of delectable things: chile paste, roasted peanuts, drizzles of soy sauce, fried ground pork. In all my years in New York and during my long love affair with Chinese food, I'd actually never eaten congee before. I tried to go for dinner at Congee Village once and was thwarted by the masses waiting ahead of me for a table. And let's be honest, rice gruel or rice porridge always sounded a little disappointing. A little too medicinal for dinnertime. Like something you had to grow up eating to love.

Silly, silly girl.

Because I'd had a big pot of chicken stock hanging out in my fridge for a few days, I decided to make the Vietnamese version of congee, chao xa ga, which has a slightly more flavorful base (chicken broth boiled together with lemongrass and chili) than regular congee. You cook rice in that fragrant broth until it's soft and (almost) falling apart - the recipe said to cook the rice for more than an hour, while I stopped after 45 minutes. Cooked, shredded chicken meat bolsters the porridge a bit, turning it into a proper meal, while fresh lemon juice and chopped cilantro or saw leaves brighten up the final plate. A plate gobbled up so fast I'd almost rather not admit it.

I initially meant to make this for dinner last night, for three men at our table. But I got a little spooked by the idea that rice porridge might be more of a lady's meal - after all, would I be able to sufficiently feed hungry dudes on something as delicate-sounding as lemon grass-scented rice gruel? After eating it for lunch, by myself, I decided I need to have those friends over again to make up for the error of my ways. Flavorful, filling, slightly spicy and - of course - delicious, I almost felt guilty enjoying chao xa ga all on my own.

Best of all, while I sat here in my Berlin kitchen, waiting for my Vietnamese soup to cook, planning to make Hunanese chopped salted chiles (did the water just spontaneously burst forth in your mouth?) for when I make a proper Chinese congee, I was struck yet again by how much fun cooking can be, how deeply satisfying a venture it is - you have directions in front of you from someone you must trust, who got those directions from someone else herself and so on, you follow those directions, you stand back and suddenly you're in the middle of eating a meal that people on the very opposite side of the universe might be having for lunch right now. Pardon me if that sounds rather obvious or silly, but it made me very happy indeed.

So next up, congee. And then my chicken broth/stock stockpile will be depleted once more, and it'll be back to the stove with chicken parts again. So, tell me, readers, what's your very favorite broth or stock recipe? What do you come back to again and again to stock your freezer with?

Chao xa ga (Rice Porridge with Chicken and Lemon Grass)
Servings: 4 to 6

9 cups chicken broth
2 stalks lemon grass, trimmed (outer leaves, tough green tops and root ends removed), cut into 1-inch pieces and lightly crushed
2 to 3 red bird's eye or Thai chiles, stemmed
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 cup jasmine rice (or similar rice)
2 cooked chicken legs, boned, skinned and shredded
Coarse sea salt
1/2 cup julienned saw (ngo gai) or cilantro leaves
Lemon wedges for serving

1. Pour the chicken broth into a pot and bring to a gentle boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the lemon grass, chiles and fish sauce and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the rice and cook, uncovered, for 45 minutes to an 1 hour.

2. Stir in the shredded chicken and season to taste with salt. Continue to cook until the chicken is heated through, about 15 minutes, or if the chicken is freshly cooked and still warm, just until combined. Divide the congee among 4 to 6 large soup bowls, garnish with the herb leaves and 1 wedge of lemon for each serving.

Comments

[Katrina]

This is such a unique recipe!! It looks amazing.

[Christine]

Woe to your tiny freezer. Maybe cook down the stock until it's practically nothing? I love my Better Than Bouillon. Of course I don't use it where chicken stock is the base (like for most soups)...but as a booster for my veggie soups, or in Chinese stirfry sauces, heck yes.

Really, if you want it, send me your address and I will happily ship them to you in Berlin.

[Maddie]

I'm coming down with a cold, so this sounds ridiculously comforting right now. And while my new apartment is located next to an entire Vietnamese mall (restaurants, jewelry shops, karaoke bars, you name it, it's Vietnamese!), I hadn't stumbled upon chao xa ga yet. Thanks for the introduction!

[Tracy]

In a pinch, we've been using a product made by Trader Joes. Little packets (looks like a packet of ketchup, but taller and slimmer) of concentrated chicken stock.

[Debjani Roy]

Thanks for reminding me of the lack of stock in Berlin! I´d forgotten what a pain it is. Maybe you can stock up on Better than Boullion next weekend in London?
Now that I live in Spain I have access to plenty of good (enough) stock, but I recently started making it again after reading a post on pressure cooker stock at Lonstersquad. It really is indecently easy! And fast! If you get yourself a pressure cooker there´ll be no need to have to spend your precious freezer space on stock. Here´s the recipe:

http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2010/01/quick-pressure-cooker-chicken-broth-stock-recipe-in-less-than-an-hour.html

[Vanessa]

Sometimes, I feel bad when I made simple things or feel they're not up to much but you know what, I've come to realise that what counts is how much pleasure a dish gives you. Likewise, I can be reluctant to try new things and afterwards ask myself how on earth it could have taken me so long to discover them. Your writing is addictive and your enthusiasm and happiness infectious. This sounds and looks so wonderful and just what I need, tired and half starved on a Friday.

[Katie @ Cozydelicious]

While rice porridge doesn't sound so appealling in itself, you really do make quite a case for it! That thing about someone else on the other side of the world eating the very same thing just now might even push me to making this - soon. Yes, it's obvious, but so obvious that it never occures to me. And as for stock... I am addicted to the prepared kind. It's terrible, I know. But I have horrible memories of hours and hours and hours is stock-making class in culinary school and never want to go there again!

[Pam]

oh, yes, those tiny European freezers! brings back memories of our years in Portugal, and the creative use of the extremely limited refrigerator space that was necessary when one was hosting Thanksgiving for 18 people. So much for the concept of advance preparation ... anyway, I always assumed it was part of a charming, dreamlike, European way of food & life, to shop daily, buy fresh and only what you need. Too bad it's so hard to do that now, anywhere.

[The French @ crispytarts]

I totally agree that cooking is such a fun venture. It can transport you to another time and place almost immediately. And I love immediately seeing the results of my labor. I'm new to making my own stocks, but I did try Mark Bittman's chicken stock. It's a quick and easy version; think it's takes about 2 hours to simmer. My favorite recipe using chicken stock is my mom's tortilla soup. The best! It's on our blog if you want the recipe:) Can't wait to try this one!

[Heather]

oh man - that's expensive chicken broth! yowsers!

i made some turkey stock last year after thanksgiving, but i am rarely inclined to make my own from other stuff, although i'm planning to once our CSA share kicks in and we'rel oaded with meat (and a storage freezer to boot!). i always use the recipes in my "on Cooking" book from culinary school!

[ann]

You sound so happy Luisa!!! It's making my heart feel tickly :-) Isaac *loves* congee. I think in some way it's a very manly dish, despite it's feminine wiles. Funny that.

[Nadia]

Try looking for packages of cubes made by Bauer Trentino. They are good, and MSG-free! I believe the packaging is in both German and Italian.

[ravenouscouple]

we love to toast the jasmine rice first before adding it to the stock..just adds a slightly nuttier flavor...but great recipe! we'll love for you to submit it to delicious vietnam, a monthly blogging event celebrating vietanmese cuisine!

[Rose-Anne]

I usually turn to one of two options for stock: vegetarian stock cubes, which I like quite a lot and use without embarrassment, or a homemade "found" vegetable stock. For the homemade stock, I just save up scraps of good stock-making vegetables, like onions, carrots, celery, fennel, and squash, and simmer them together with water and salt. Easy peasy--the only real work involved is straining the stock after it has cooled. I love having some homemade stock stashed in the freezer!

[Jessika]

What kind of broth/stock are you buying for 4 5 6 euros? I can get a good brand (in Sweden) that gives you 12 litres) for less than 3 € (30sek). You're looking for something like bottled bouillon or something similar? Had no idea they're os much.
Not all European countries or cities have tiny freezers. I have a nicely sized one, I still buy bottled broth.

[Krista]

Oh I like this very much!! Boxes of stock are my favorite staple in my kitchen. I can imagine it would be quite vexing to not have stock quick and easy at hand. This is beautiful and simple and scrumptious. :-)

[Jen]

I have never made my own stock! I suppose that when I get great a great organic product for $3.99, it beats saving all the bits and pieces and leftovers to make my own. I suppose I should really break down and make it one of these days--especially if you think it's so worth it for the flavor.

[D. @ Outside Oslo]

I remember the first time I made congee. I can thank Joy of Cooking for introducing me to this wonderfully simple, yet comforting dish. Merely rice, ginger, chicken, and scallions, and of course salt, it couldn't get more simple than that. The problem is that I start feeling hungry too soon afterward. Perhaps more protein added to the mix might be the key.

I love the idea of adding lemongrass to the mix.

[alexia]

I had to laugh at the Better Than Bouillon comment. I always bring back 2-3 and whenever anyone visits, it is at the top of my list. I haven't found anything even close here in Germany. Off to try your strawberry rhubarb recipe.

[carol]

you might want to try this homemade bouillon recipe from 101cookbooks.com. its really great, makes a lot, and you can keep it in the freezer!

http://www.101cookbooks.com/archives/homemade-bouillon-recipe.html

[Kelly]

I've been living in Germany now for three years. While there is lots to love, my two biggest frustrations are indeed my shoebox freezer and no tasty stock at the grocery store.

By the way, I am often in Berlin so if you want any tips on where to get things let me know.

[Paige Orloff]

Three things---1. Jordan just said "who was your friend in Berlin?" and so I clicked right over. He saw your picture and said "That IS her!" Ah, amazing internet.
2. He wants that congee, and so do I. I have some stock in the fridge from making poached chicken for tacos (for 24 third graders, oh yeah, mom life is big glamorous). Though it is flavored with cumin, it might work, so this is on tap for this week.
3. I have been dying to make that Smitten carrot salad. My fave harissa recipe is from Suzanne Goin.
Oh, and one more thing--if I come back to Berlin (which I may, as, sigh, the husband is STILL there) I'll bring you some BTB.
xx

[Raquelita]

Funny that you started the blog of with stock and soups and finished off with congee: not only did I grow up with congee for breakfast - the Chinese version of bacon-and-eggs savoriness, it is also the Chinese version of "chicken soup" when one is ill. I love it in any form - plain with soy sauce, sesame oil and white pepper or gussied up with julienned scallions, deep-fried anchovies, pickled vegetables and braised shiitake mushrooms.

Not that you were talking about anything Chinese but you got me all nostalgic!

I use Jamie Oliver's recipe for chicken stock when the stock is for anything but a Chinese/Asian recipe. If it's going into an Asian dish, Kylie Kwong's versions (from "Simple Chinese Cooking" - Light or Rich) are brilliant.

For what it is worth, I use Marigold Swiss Vegetable Bouillon when I'm out of fresh stock. I used it when I lived in the UK - and have a stash Stateside, thanks to lovely friends! - so it just might be available on the continent?!

[Raquelita]

Also, have you considered using a slow cooker? More electricity, true, but it does mean you can bung everything in and leave it to do its thing a) overnight or b) while you are out. Debjani's pressure cooker recommendation would have been my other suggestion!

[Molly]

I have been meaning to try congee FOREVER. Had it in a restaurant once, and it completely disappointed. I've long suspected homemade would be infinitely better. Hereby confirmed.

[Michele]

Stock is one of those things I can't live without and always have a container of in my freezer. Luckily my freezer is a bit bigger than yours! My favourite stock is a chicken stock with an Asian twist - bones boiled up with all the usual aromatics plus lemongrass, ginger, lime leaves (which I buy fresh and freeze), garlic, and one chili. Smells amazing when it's cooking

My favourite "cheat" stock is porcini stock cubes from Italy. They taste amazingly authentic.

[TheKitchenWitch]

When a friend of mine is really sick, she NEEDS congee. For me, when the sniffles hit, only pho will do.

Something about a big bowl of Asian-inspired comfort...

[Julia of Randomly Yours, Julia]

My best friend and I are on opposite sides of the globe, but we read your blog all the time (and cook from it) - we feel like we have come to know you over the past two years, and like we are a little closer ourselves. We are both anxiously awaiting your book, and I have just gifted her Kim Boyce's book - she loves it. (We are also very happy for you and the man at your table!)

I also have a tiny freezer, and I confess I have access to stock so I haven't made it much myself. I tend to stockpile bananas to make banana loaf at a later date.

[Bunny]

What a surprise to see this broth post, when just spent a full day making stock for myself. I have to make it from scratch, I simply can't stand commercial stock...usually it contains msg, which gives me migraines and just tastes bad.

Anyway the method depends on whether I want a browned, rich stock or a light clear stock. Also depends on what parts of the chicken I'm using, how much meat is on the bone, and of course whether the chicken has already been roasted or is raw.

For this last stock I made, I got a big bag of raw bones with considerable meat attached from a Thai store in Chinatown, for $1 (left over from their deboning). Yup, just $1. There was so much that I had to use two pots.

I wash the chicken well under under cold water and over a colander. I use scissors to cut off some of the thicker flap slabs of fat, and also remove the liver-type stuff clinging to the bones.

I put the chicken in a stock pot, cover it wth VERY COLD water. Bring it to a boil, Remove the scum that forms on the surface of the pot - - there can be quite a lot of it. Once skimmed, I add about 3 or 4 quartered onions including some of the onion skin (which gives a nice yellow colour to the broth). Don't skimp on the onion - - it is the onion that makes it uneccessary to add any powdered base. I sometimes add celery, but I avoid carrot as it lends a sweetness that I do not like in a light broth. Reduce to a simmer and after about 1/2 an hour, add coarse salt and fresh ground pepper. Simmer about 2 hours, or longer. Herbs can be added - -such as a spare amount of thyme, if you like thyme (which I do).

I usually store the stock in this plain version and only add other spices once I decide what sort of soup I'm in the mood for on a given day. For example, for chicken Asian noodle soups, I like to add star anise and sliced fresh ginger, and top with fresh coriander and a squeeze of lime.

There's another recipe for a deeper/darker stock that I really like from the simplyrecipes.com website...where you brown the chicken pieces first - - but I only do this if I'm using thigh or breast bones (with some meat attached) that I've deboned myself. As I have found it to be ridiculous to brown other raw and bonier parts of a carcass.

Broth from a roast chicken can be good too (Jamie Oliver has a short chat on it), but it's an entirely different thing...more of a soup suited for being heavy on root vegetables or some kind of "Woman's Day' type soup.

Well, good luck. I'm going to do another batch this week...I love Asian noodle soups in the summer...they are awesome for replacing electrolytes!

[Bunny]

Bunny again - - Sorry, I forgot to say that I cool the brother before using it, so that I can remove the fat that rises and solidifies on the surface of the broth once cooled.

Also I don't remove all the fat from the raw chicken pieces, just some of it.

But I'm sure you know all about this and I don't need to tell ya~
Cheers

[bunny]

Hi - - Bunny again.
Here's the link to the chicken stock recipe on simply recipes. Very good directions and great results.
http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/how_to_make_chicken_stock/

Good luck everyone - - it's a snap and worth it.

[bunny]

Note that the simplyrecipes recipe is for either browning the chicken or using a roast carcass.

If you want to start from raw, and not brown the pieces, then my recipe above is great for a clear, clean broth.

Sorry - - I'm hot on this topic right now, but I also am really terrible for forgetting important details!
Cheers and au revoir!

[Jess]

If you have a mind to, you could can your stock the day you make it and save on precious freezer space.

[noëlle {simmer down!}]

It's all well and good to make stock when you can, but Better than Bouillon certainly has its place in my pantry! Also, I find it very useful in situations where only a small amount of broth is called for- I don't necessarily want to defrost a container of stock if I only need a cup or so.

[Andy]

The porridge looks rich and delicious, accompanied by a squeeze of lemon for a finishing touch.. yummy!
Also to share, usually I will keep my chicken stock frozen in the ice cubes maker, and whenever I need them, I would just pop it straight into the pot! keep the rest for another delicious meal.

[Katherine]

Luisa,
I want to second what Carol said about the homemade veggie stock Heidi wrote about on 101 cookbooks.

For $10, I made enough boullion for me and a friend for months. Because of all the salt it doesn't solidify in the freezer.

Unfortunately, it does require a food processor. You can look forwrad to it when you buckle and buy a new one!

[Allison]

There's a Filipino version of this called Arroz Caldo. My mother makes it with fresh ginger, garlic, black pepper, bay leaves, and bone-in chicken drumsticks. The bone adds an authentic homemade flavor.

After being served, we usually add more fish sauce, black pepper, Sriracha hot sauce, or chile paste according to our individual tastes. It makes for such good comfort food.

[NM]

Hi Luisa, you can get soup base in Germany:
http://www.juergen-langbein.de/produkte/frischpasten.html
(My SIL turned me on to the brand, they're pretty good.)

[tasteofbeirut]

Great idea to throw lemon grass in the pot! next time I will remember!

[Veera H.]

Luisa! I had heard about this blog and of course I know you, but for some reason I hadn't put it together! It's fabulous. I'm a huge fan of food and food writing (even tried my hand at a food blog, but I'd better stick with children's writing). Anyway, glad to see you're doing so well. Good luck with the book!

Veera

[Linda]

Sounds like an amazing comfort dish. Will give it a try. Excellent idea to toss in the lemon grass.

[evy]

Oh! I want to hear more about about about- ah shucks--the heart photo!...what a cliff hanger!

[Meredi]

Aside from actual chicken soup, most recipes that call for chicken stock absolutely don't need it! I think there is an over-reliance on soup broth (and that terrible substitute, the bouillion cube) in recipes. In fact, many dishes are as good, if not better, using plain boiled water or light vegetable brothe. Example, vegetable based risotto, etc. Becoming a vegetarian (even a temporary or occasional vegetarian :) quickly makes this apparent.

If you can be creative with herbs and onions and other seasonings, you quickly ditch the bouillion. I think it has become way-overemphasized in recipes designed for quick-cooking, people with limited cooking skills, people with tastebuds accustomed to processed foods, or meat-aholics..

Just my take on things. If a cookbook were to rely heavily on broths as essential for its recipes (aside from soups), then I would not buy it because I would not have anything in common with that kind of cook. I find it particularly annoying when meat broths are part of a vegetable dish recipe.

Just a little rant from Auntie Boo Leon.
Have a nice weekend.

[kim]

Hi Luisa, I had problems getting to your posts via Bloglovin, these link towards http://thewednesdaychef.com (without the 'www' which doesn't work anymore. Thought I'd let you know!
I live under the curse of the tiny freezer too. Have no room in the apartment to buy an extra freezer, hopefully I will when I move later this year. I'd love to make more soup but can't story the extra portions and can't force myself to eat the same thing 4 meals in a row.

[Luisa]

Kim - you've always got to put the www. before thewednesdaychef.com, otherwise you'll get to a domain park.

[Cooking with Kait]

What a comforting dish. Great flavors.

[dining room tables]

I remember this recipe! My mother always cooks this every cold morning. It is a nice way to start the day.

[ally]

We cook rice porridge every morning.But we rarely put other food in it.Sometimes,we also put red bean or mung bean in rice porridge.

[Erica]

I love rice porridge! Thank you so much for this recipe. And I sympathize with you and your freezer. I don't have a kitchen so I use a mini fridge and the freezer part is always swelling up with ice. I can fit a few bags of frozen fruit in it and that's about it.

[dorothee]

After living with a tiny freezer for years and a need for fresh broth for even longer I've taken to "canning" my broth by filling it into 400 ml canning glasses and "baking" them in a water filled dish at a 100 °C for a little over an hour. That way I can store them in the fridge or even the cupboard for weeks.