Russ Parsons's Cauliflower and Potato Gratin

Well. Let me tell you one thing. Berlin? Is cold. Very, very cold. There's this Arctic wind blowing down on us from the north, apparently, and it's not going to stop anytime soon. Did you know that Berlin is on the same latitude as Labrador? New York, in case you're wondering, is on the same latitude as Rome. That might help put the proximity of that Arctic wind in perspective for you. It is awfully, bone-chillingly close.

Then, the snow. The city has been blanketed in white since I arrived here almost three weeks ago. At first it was festive and clean! Now, I sort of want to kick all that snow in the teeth. I've been wearing the same waterproof, wool-lined hiking boots for weeks. Doesn't the weather know that a woman's happiness is bound up in her ability to alternate footwear at least once or twice a week? Or at least change out of the heavy duty socks purchased on one trip to the Rocky Mountains a few years ago.

Anyway, all of this complaining is actually to explain why on earth, after the absolute gluttony of the holidays, I made a cheese sauce-cloaked potato and cauliflower dish on New Year's Day. Delicate salads and gossamer soups, take your pretty little selves to warmer climes. Here in Berlin, I'm turning on the oven as often as I can. The more burners I can use, the better! And I need butterfat to help the cause.

Russ Parsons meant for this dish to be served as a side for a Christmas feast, but there was no such restraint in my kitchen. Between two mouths at dinner, one admittedly a little larger than the other, the whole thing was polished off in no time. Okay, fine, with a salad. And it was delicious. Honestly, I don't know that I'd ever serve this as a side dish - I need those usually to be simpler and plainer. But it is perfect as a vegetarian main course. Just right.

The Gruyère was restrained, the cauliflower practically sweet, the potatoes creamily yielding. Russ has you make a leek-studded, cheese-scented béchamel that would make a lovely blanket for any number of vegetables (endives! leeks! white asparagus!). It gets poured over and under a pile of boiled, cubed potatoes and cauliflower and then stuck in a hot oven for bubbling, crisping action. The gratin must be eaten straight out of the oven, never mind about your burned tongue. Hot, hot, hot, it does a wondrous job filling bellies and warming cold bodies. (Thank you, Russ!)

In other news, I have one small victory to report: I have a working cell phone! With a German number! It only took me three weeks, three missed delivery attempts, some minor computer hacking and a few chewed cuticles to get here. And it feels glorious. Like the first piece of my everyday life just shifted into place. Next up, an apartment of my own, pretty please.

I'm camping at my mother's apartment while I look for my own place. It's not half-bad, living rent-free, and in a gorgeous, art-filled, turn-of-the-century apartment with a lovely kitchen (the counter space! the dishwasher!) to boot. Cooking in her kitchen is a little weird - like walking in a pair of shoes that's a size too small or eating dinner at a table that's about 5 inches too high. You know what I mean? It's doable but feels a little off. Though the measuring cups and spoons that I brought with me from Queens are making me feel a little more settled.

Anyway, I'm still getting used to the light here, so please forgive the strange quality of the photos in my posts for now - they're all a little wonky. On the whole, though, I have to say, it is so nice to be here. Cold weather, weird lighting, longing for a space of my own, I can take it all. It's good to be home.

Cauliflower and Potato Gratin
Serves 6 to 8 as a side dish

1 (1 1/4-pound) head of cauliflower
1/2 pound small boiling potatoes
Salt
1 tablespoon vinegar
1/4 cup butter
1 leek, white part only, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1/4 cup flour
1 1/2 cups milk
2 tablespoons crème fraiche or sour cream
3/4 cup grated Gruyère cheese, divided (about 1 1/2 ounces)
Freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut the dried base and green leaves from the cauliflower and discard them. Separate the head into florets about the size of walnuts and chop the stem into similar size pieces. Cut the potatoes into similar-size pieces as well.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high head and salt liberally. Add 1 tablespoon of vinegar and the cauliflower and potatoes (the vinegar will help keep the cauliflower white). Cook until the cauliflower pieces are tender enough to be easily cut with a spoon, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

3. While the cauliflower is cooking, make a cheese sauce. In a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat and stir in the leeks. Cook until they are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the flour and whisk to make a smooth paste. Add the milk a little at a time, cooking until it thickens. When all the milk has been added, reduce the heat and cook over medium-low heat for 5 to 10 minutes.

4. Stir in the crème fraîche, then one-half cup of the Gruyère, 1 teaspoon salt and a generous grating of nutmeg (a little less than one-quarter teaspoon). Whisk until smooth, then taste and add more salt or nutmeg if necessary.

5. Butter a 6-cup gratin dish and spread a thin layer of the sauce evenly over the bottom. Arrange the cooked cauliflower and potatoes in an even layer over the sauce. Pour the remaining sauce over the top and spread evenly with the back of a spoon. It should come about three-quarters of the way up the vegetables.

6. Scatter bread crumbs evenly over top and then scatter the remaining one-quarter cup Gruyère over that. Bake until the gratin is bubbling and the top is browned, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve immediately.

Comments

[small kitch cara]

I love these gratins that are sort of like mac and cheese without the pasta...I make a mixed root veggie one that is like that too. BTW, New York is being chilled by an arctic wind too.

[CKBH]

yummy and I love the pic. So happy!

[Postjazz.blogspot.com]

Arg! From just north of London, I understand *completely* about the cold wind. Usually the UK is warmer than mainland Europe because of the Gulf Stream, but that doesn't always apply on the east side...our wind comes from Norway across the North Sea and the flat flat Fens... I'm sitting here in sheepskin slippers, two pairs of socks a fleece jumper and have a hot water bottle on my lap. But then, I have been described as reptilian by certain friends.

The gratin looks divine, I will have to try that when I get to the end of my cabbage fix - spicy and full of bacon and then with cheese on the top is what's getting me through at the moment!

[Dawn]

Yippee... I have potatoes and a head of cauliflower sitting in the fridge... it is cold here in sunny Florida so I will be trying this out tonight. Thanks!

[maggie]

Mmmm. I was eyeing a similar dish in a Jamie Oliver cookbook. Looks soothing. Glad you're settling in, sorry about the cold!

[Amanda]

I just found your blog and I can say I totally understand and relate to your "complaining" as I have recently moved from sunny, hot Australia to brrr cold Canada.
Your posts made me smile. I have been here 3 months and am still not myself!

[Sarah]

i can't imagine Berlin being any colder than it is in New York right now. Brrr!!! I understand the socks and boots dilemma, although I must add that with the socks and boots come only 1 or MAYBE 2 pair of pants that go appropriately with the forementioned boots, which of course affect the sweaters that will match those 1 or 2 pair of pants, and so on. wintertime is hard...

but this gratin looks delicious :)

[Aricka]

I can not wait to try this recipe! It looks so good and cheesy. I bet you could substitute a number of veggies. Sorry about the cold weather. Spring will be here before you know it!

[Melanie]

Newly in Germany myself, and growing up in Atlanta, I'm happy to see the warming recipe! Looks gorgeous! I made endive gratin last winter and the sauce was a little off, so I'm happy to see a new one to try!

[radiogourmet.wordpress.com]

Boy, can I ever relate to the cold... from a few blocks away in Berlin. Tonight's menu featured braised cabbage with a hint of Indian spices and Dijon mustard, tilapia (I know, so unsustainable) in a light cream and lemon sauce, and Bratkartoffeln. Food that sticks to your ribs but doesn't weigh you down.

It takes time to adapt to the winter climate around here... but at least you didn't get here during the coldest week on record... last year around this time.

Welcome to Berlin and enjoy that cute yet practical kitchen!

[Char]

OK...Berrlin can't be colder than Canada!!!!
It's FREEZING here...actually -20 today, but who is counting...
I, yes, am on that...oh not so nice health revival...as pounds have accumilated where they were not asked to appear! So this mouth watering cauliflower and potatoe dish LOOKS SO GOOD!...thanks for sharing...and that picture is beautiful of you...love the red cabinet in the background.
Have a good evening.
Char

[Andrea]

As a loyal reader from Minneapolis (checking in at -10!), I want to just note that this is more than perfect for the arctic temps-- thank you for sharing! And as a long-time reader, it is lovely to see you settling in happily. Bravo! Andrea from Mpls

[david]

I have just three words for you:

silk
long
underwear

[Martha]

That's a super looking recipe. I have descended into my post holiday Vegetarian phase and have been needing some new meatless main courses. I will be trying that soon.

This is proving an unusually severe winter all over Northern Europe. In my 13 years in Estonia, we have never had so much snow this early. I have no advice to add - just keep on keeping on. Winter does end and Spring does come.

[Andrea]

I second the silk long underware suggestion. But let me take it one step further and suggest smartwool long underware on top of the silk. Silk is well and good for New York cold, but Labrador latitudes may require heartier unmentionables.

Hang in there with the settling in. What a lovely recipe!

[Erika from The Pastry Chef At Home]

Your gratin made me swoon. Melted cheese, crème fraiche, and butter are exactly what we all need to make it through the winter season!

I have been away from NYC for 1 month and i'm scared to go back to the icy tundra. I'm in England right now and the weather here is tropical compared to there and where you are!

ps: I brought my measuring cups and spoons with me too!

[Lea Ann]

I think this sounds absolutely wonderful. Thanks so much for the recipe, I'll be making this soon.

[Krista]

SO lovely! Wonderfully warm and comforting :-)

[Claire]

Living in Germany since 3 months, I totally understand the craving for HOT confort food!! Even Currywurst tastes like heaven when steaming hot :)
Big up

[codfish]

I think the pictures look fantastic. And your writing is inspiring. Now, if I can just use some willpower to hold off on this recipe! I have a wedding dress to fit into later this year and a resolution to stick to, lady!

[Kristin (The Pearl Onion)]

I wish I hadn't just started my post-holiday-diet...this looks great!

[TheKitchenWitch]

Luisa,

You totally messed up the recipe!?! It should read: serves one, right? Because that's certainly what it would feed in my house. One. In bed. Under the blankets. With a giant spoon.

I have never, in my life, been colder than in Paris in March. That wet, frigid wind cuts right through you.

And I am giggling a little because I am imagining what hideous thing Claire is referring to when she says "currywurst." Do elaborate!

[Dawn (KitchenTravels)]

You look lovely and relaxed. I like the fact that someone snapped a photo of you washing... hands? dishes? potatoes? Those moments make for wonderful pictures. And this gratin looks sinfully delicious. I do believe Russ has included one of every kind of dairy product in there.

[Megan Gordon]

What a lovely post! Glad you're settling in and finding your way back here...

[The Leftoverist]

Beautiful photo of you. So glad you're settling in.

And I agree--this would be a main dish in my house for sure. Delicious.

[Sook]

We got some cauliflower last night and i've been trying to think of a way to use it. This recipe looks perfect!

[ChefDylan]

its sounds about as cold as it feels here in Woking! that gratin would certainly warm ones cockles thats for sure!

http://fromcooktotrainedchefandbeyond.blogspot.com/

[Erik Hastings]

...am i more smitten with the dish's certain promised satisfaction or of that charming portrait? (and congrats on signing...)

[cara @ City Girl Chicago]

one word. Y-U-M.

[my spatula]

luisa, you look beautiful. may 2010 be filled with warm, new memories in your home of berlin. happy new year! xo.

[Kristine in Santa Barbara]

Luisa: do no apologize for your pictures. After I put mine in the oven (20 minutes ago), I checked out Russ Parson's at LA Times. I would never have made it from his picture! You can't even see what is from the picture in the Times. I made it because of your pictures sister.....because you made it look appetizing.

I'm not as fussy as the recipe. No need for vinegar in the boiling water....there's plenty of sauce and cheese so need to worry about "white" cauliflower. No layering of sauce and veggies....just poured the sauce on top. I think 400 is too hot....I see the bread crumbs are already too brown after just 20 minutes.

Thanks for the wonderful update and recipe. Kristine

[the lacquer spoon]

Gratin is comfort food throughout a year, but it's Christmassy too, associating with snowy fields :) Happy New Year!!

[sara]

Yay! I love your blog.
Where are you hoping to settle in Berlin? When I lived there I lived on Gleimstr. between the Schonhauser Allee and Eberswalderstr. u-bahns.

Ahhhhhh Berlin!!!!

[Mikelis Munters]

Not only are your recipes consistently delicious, and your storytelling always engaging, but you are also stunningly beautiful. I am thankful for you in this new year.

[Anna]

Hey such a beautiful picture of you! I have been reading your blog for a long while, but somehow missed the change in your life that triggered the decision to start writing fulltime and move back to berlin.
All I can say is that i wish you all the best. I myself am a Berlin-born/raised Girl living now in Shanghai for the last 3 years, working as a programmer, cooking a lot western and chinese dishes..
Anyway you have all all my support and wishes for 2010 for you, und atme mal ne gute portion berliner luft fuer mich ein! - anna

[Janet]

I've made a similar gratin, but with butternut squash in place of the potatoes. Delicious!
Wishing you much good luck in your new life. What fun to have dreams come true!

[cj]

Ok, it is cold, but you are in Berlin! Put down that cauliflower, woman, and start stuffing yourself like mad with cakes and more cakes, like I did last March. I LOVE that city.

[D]

Very pretty.

[notyet100]

though its cold out here,..i went all warm reading ur post

[bridget {bake at 350}]

Just discovering your blog! Hello there! I can't wait to dive in a read more. :)

It's even cold in HOUSTON today!

[Sylvie]

Happy New Year! If you need some heart warming and rib sticking food and don't feel like cooking it yourself, you should go to the Kellerrestaurant in the Brecht Haus.

[Luisa]

Cara - it totally is. I'm so sorry! I'm hoping for you that at least you have some steam heat keeping you warm.

Sarah - so right about those pants, too. I'm living in skinny jeans and about 5 different heavy sweaters piled on top of each other. I have never so actively wished for spring before. :)

radiogourmet - your menu sounds incredible. Can I come over for dinner? :) In the US, American-raised tilapia is a very sustainable fish because it's vegetarian and farm-raised. Does tilapia in Germany come from Asia?

KitchenWitch - your comments are the best. They always make me laugh. Stay tuned on the currywurst! :)

Sara - I'm hoping for a place in Schöneberg, Wilmersdorf or Charlottenburg, the places I know best...fingers crossed I find something soon.

CJ - you are cute, your comment made me giggle.

Sylvie - wow, thank you for that tip. It looks amazing! Cannot wait to try.

And thanks to all for your sweet comments about the photo of me washing dishes at the end - you are lovely people! xoxo

[Naomi]

It is so so cold in Berlin right now and this is exactly what I've been eating! I'd like to eat something light and crisp, like a salad, but heavy, warm foods just feel so right.

[kim]

Look at you - you are home!
xoxo

[Katie @ Cozydelicious]

So yummy! And perfect winter food! I love love love cauliflower anything - especially a cheesy anything. This looks totally warming. And it's can't be any colder or more snowy in Berlin than in Boston! Brrr! (I second the silk long underwear, by the way!)

And as for the phone.... congrats! You're official! Having a phone number means you really live there.

[Francesca]

That gratin looks amazing! I have to admit, I'm wishing I could trade my Sydney summer for your white winter for a few days so that I could fire up the oven. I'm using mine as little as possible at the moment - no fun!

Love the new banner, by the way!

[Claire]

I'm with Francesca - Sydney is STICKY - salad, salad, salad is the only answer (although for some reason I'm baking - damn you mushy bananas that needed to become bread!).. For the gratin - yum! although I almost always add in just a teaspoon of hot English mustard to the white sauce to give it a background yumminess. Haven't tried one like that with potatoes exactly, but as soon as I can bear to wear long sleeves this is going on my list of must eats!

[Denise @ Chez Danisse]

Okay...it's in the oven right now. The sauce was so tasty I wanted to eat it with a spoon! I can't wait to taste the finished browned and bubbling masterpiece.

[tastaturen]

Thanks a lot for the wonderful recipe. Every New Year , I try something new in my kitchen. I wanted to try something new for this time too to treat my family and friends with. This will be a real treat!

[Dani]

I never comment - but wanted to say the gratin looks wonderful, and the feeling is mutual. I LOVE your blog.