I knew I could count on you, lovelies, for cheering me up and on, for sharing your wisdom on baking in faraway lands and for making me feel just a little less alone in my kitchen. Thank you! I've said it before and I'll say it again, and again, and again: I'm so happy you're here.
I'd like to repay you, if I may, with the kind of recipe that seems as if it'd be possibly the lamest, plainest thing you'd ever look at or eat, but that turns out, slyly, to be the kind of thing you find yourself thinking about at the strangest moments, like before lunchtime or perhaps even dinner, and far more often than you'd ever care to admit. It might even, possibly, for some of you, become the kind of thing you crave, even though it's nothing more than a soupy mixture of cheap vegetables and flavored water.
Oh, go on. Let me tell you more.
It comes from Peter Berley's Flexitarian Table, which has turned out to be one of my dark horse cookbooks, an unassuming little tome that I end up turning to again and again, staining pages and cracking spine. (Do you know what is deeply fantastic, today? My boxes arrived from the United States! Right now, as I type, all my earthly possessions are sitting meekly in their boxes in the room next door. This is more thrilling than I can fairly handle. I want to rip open the boxes, throw myself at my pots, my favorite dress, my books, oh, my books, my sharp knives, and my Kusmi tea, and murmur adoringly to them all. But first, patience! I am still apartment hunting. Eeep.)
I first made the soup last winter. It is the epitome of soothing warmth and nourishment. It's green and bright at a time when the winter gloom threatens to swallow Berlin up whole (though we had 20 minutes of sunshine today, in some kind of miraculous stunt, for the first time in 16 days, apparently a record even for this gray city). It requires nothing all that fresh, except for two leeks and maybe some mint, though I've made it with parsley to delicious results and could imagine this even without any herbs at all.
Basically, you sauté a bunch of sliced leeks in olive oil before cooking them in stock (Peter stipulates vegetable, I like chicken) for a few minutes. Then in go frozen peas, which cook in about 5 minutes, and a mess of fresh sauerkraut. Don't forget its juice, its deliciously sour juice. Three minutes later you have a pot full of hot, sweet, vegetal soup that is chewy and tangy and rather hard to stop eating.
This soup will not win any awards for comeliness. And I believe it works out to be worth pennies per serving. It's simple, peasant food at its very plainest. But it warms the belly and the heart, wakes up the mind with its sour zip, and is so easy to make you could find yourself doing it with one hand tied behind your back. I kind of love it.
And I hope you do, too. Who needs coffeecakes when you've got sauerkraut soup? Not me.
Leek Soup with Peas and Sauerkraut
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 large leeks, about 2 cups, cleaned and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon chopped mint or chopped parsley
4 cups vegetable or chicken stock
1 teaspoon salt, more to taste
1 pound frozen green peas
1 cup fresh sauerkraut (if there's something in your sauerkraut other than cabbage and salt, rinse it before adding it to the pot)
1. Add the oil to a large saucepan and heat it over medium heat. Add the leeks, mint, if using, and salt. Cook the leeks until tender, 5 to 8 minutes.
2. Add the stock. Simmer for a few minutes, then add the peas and cook until the peas are tender—just a couple of minutes. Add the sauerkraut and parsley and stir to combine. Taste for salt and adjust if necessary. Let the sauerkraut heat through, then turn off the heat and serve, drizzled with olive oil, if desired.


comfort soup is so right up my alley. how did i manage to live in a house as the only dedicated soup eater? it's very sad.
Posted by: hannah | January 21, 2010 at 09:32 AM
As someone who eats sauerkraut by the heaping spoonful straight from the jar, I am salivating as I read this.
Posted by: Maria | January 21, 2010 at 09:55 AM
I love things just exactly like this--humble, deeply satisfying.
It has been wonderful vicarious living reading about your adventure moving. Thanks for sharing, I only wish I could have met you when you lived in NY!
Posted by: hannah | January 21, 2010 at 09:56 AM
this is exactly-EXACTLY what i need to emerge victorious from horrid winter. thank you!
apartment hunting can be such a pain. but isn't it thrilling and wonderful when you find your home and slowly settle into it, making it your own? and that first victorious meal you cook in your new kitchen?? relish it.
Posted by: dc sarah | January 21, 2010 at 10:00 AM
You must have sent your sun to Hamburg because it is out here, hanging low over the river, for the first time in what feels like forever. Thanks for sharing both the soup and the sun!
Posted by: kathleen | January 21, 2010 at 10:10 AM
Happy to read about your Kusmi tea’s safe arrival. Kusmi is my A.M. savior. I'm sipping green St Petersburg at the moment, and have tins of spicy chocolate, sweet love and Christmas tea stowed away. Also, relieved to read this recipe as there is some lonely sauerkraut in my pantry that’s been waiting patiently for a recipe of comfort.
Posted by: Jennifer J | January 21, 2010 at 10:34 AM
There's nothing like soup in the winter. mmmmm.
This looks really tasty. I love broth soups so much.
Posted by: Diana @ Frontyardfoodie | January 21, 2010 at 10:37 AM
Homey, simple, warm, and nourishing...just what you need during a time of transition. So happy to hear your boxes arrived! Good luck with apt. search!
And by the way, the last time I heard I "comeliness" may have been in a 7th grade class on Dickens or DH Lawrence or somebody. You're just fabulous!
Posted by: Michelle | January 21, 2010 at 10:40 AM
aha, that's one I may actually try and make (more of an avid reader than an avid cook, I have to admit) as this sounds like a proper, honest, filling winter dish the sort I enjoy. hooray.
gracias,
ninj
Posted by: la ninja | January 21, 2010 at 10:50 AM
I LOVE it when you post recipes for which I already have everything at home. This looks perrrfect for chilly Boston.
Posted by: Adrienne | January 21, 2010 at 11:04 AM
Luisa, thank YOU for these recipes and for sharing your stories. We're glad you're here.
Posted by: Megan | January 21, 2010 at 11:09 AM
Whoa...I would never in a million years thought of putting sauerkraut in soup. This looks fantastic--I need GREEN tastes right now. Oh, and a little bit of sun too, I'm right with you there!
Posted by: Sarah | January 21, 2010 at 12:02 PM
I've also never thought to put sauerkraut in soup, but why not? It looks fantastic. I LOVE this type of meal!
Posted by: Anna | January 21, 2010 at 12:09 PM
Oh, I'm so pleased to hear your worldly belongings are now with you, at last! It makes *such* a difference, doesn't it?! All the best with the apartment hunt - you will find something beautiful that is just you.
The soup sounds delicious. It's going on my weekly menu...
Posted by: Raquelita | January 21, 2010 at 12:20 PM
This is such a fabulous idea. Sauerkraut in soup. Of course!
Posted by: Julia | January 21, 2010 at 12:28 PM
FINNALLY...to be lost in a new World without your treasure...kind of a tease though when you're still hunting for a place to live...BUT atleast they're within reach!
Looking forward to making this soup...sounds deeelish!
Thanks for always sharing such moments.
Char
Posted by: Char | January 21, 2010 at 12:40 PM
I never would have thought of this combination, yet reading about it, it seems to make perfect sense. I can picture the sweetness of the peas and leeks with the sour tang of the kraut. Better yet, it seems like a soup I could actually whip up after work for a simple supper, without an involved bout of shopping.
Posted by: noëlle {simmer down!} | January 21, 2010 at 12:42 PM
Glad to hear that things are a step closer to settling down on the other side of the pond for you. My fingers are crossed for that apartment of your choice. Hope you get it.
Posted by: Sharmila | January 21, 2010 at 02:13 PM
Mm.. that sounds so good and delicious! I could go for some right now. I'm so glad there's another soul who harbors such delight for Kusmi tea. It's one of my favorite things.
Posted by: radish | January 21, 2010 at 02:46 PM
I love it, another way to use sauerkraut...! Thank you for the lovely posts and great recipes
Posted by: Eva | January 21, 2010 at 02:57 PM
Soup with kraut sounds so German, which is appropriate! I don't know how you're resisting your boxes, even if you know you're still moving again. At least it's one more step towards settling in!
Posted by: Erin | January 21, 2010 at 03:22 PM
It's nice that you also enjoyed the brief rays on sunshine today! It truly lifted my spirits as did finding your new post with this wonderful recipe which I'm going to try tomorrow for some Friday night comfort. I'm also a huge fan of Kusmi tea and funnily, opening packages with tea in them is one my biggest pleasures.
Posted by: Vanessa | January 21, 2010 at 03:27 PM
This post cracked me up!!! I can't wait to try this soup. Seriously... who needs coffee cake? So happy to hear your things arrived- sounds like things are perking up!! Love reading your posts, Luisa... Your honesty and wit are a perfect combo. Keep 'em comin'.
Posted by: Abby in Boulder | January 21, 2010 at 05:55 PM
I looooove sauerkraut soup and have never seen such a simple recipe for it! Thank you Luisa! I'll send you some sunshine when I can :-)
Posted by: ann | January 21, 2010 at 06:33 PM
Saurkraut sounds like a great addition to this lovely soup!
Posted by: Sook @ My Fabulous Recipes | January 21, 2010 at 06:45 PM
Perfect comfort food! Peas’ green is, frozen or not, vernal to lift us up!!
Posted by: the lacquer spoon | January 21, 2010 at 10:36 PM
oh this sounds wonderful - I'm going to bookmark it for winter...I wonder where I can find sauerkraut in auckland??
Posted by: kathleen | January 22, 2010 at 01:43 AM
this looks comforting,..
Posted by: notyet100 | January 22, 2010 at 02:55 AM
Hi, Kiddo,
I have to be honest - this looks sort of awful
BUT
you have never steered me wrong. Not once.
So - since I am heading up to the country today, and there are already two leeks in the vegetable drawer, I will get some fresh sauerkraut at the uptown Fairway and make this soup for lunch tomorrow. I have plenty of Zuni chicken stock in the freezer, and I happen to love frozen peas. And by lunchtime, I'll have some of Jim Lahey's bread ready.
What are looks anyway?
By the way, I loved your last post and loved the comments. I suspect you really can make brown sugar yourself using granulated sugar and treacle (if you can get that and not molasses). Keep us posted about this part of your adventure! Good luck and be well.
Posted by: Victoria | January 22, 2010 at 07:02 AM
Ah! Although I never piped in here, i almost commented on your last post that maybe soup would be a good idea! It's usually pretty forgiving of overseas travel, I think. But of course you knew anyway, and what lovely soup it is!
Posted by: alana | January 22, 2010 at 07:21 AM
what an interesting idea - i would never think of combining peas and leeks with sauerkraut. i will certainly try it soon as i would also choose sauerkraut over coffeecake...
Posted by: Natasa | January 22, 2010 at 07:30 AM
Long time reader.....first time poster.
I just wanted to say how much I love your blog and I'm so glad that you haven't stopped posting even with all the major changes in your life.
Your descriptions of food are spot on and the pictures are always so lovely. It makes me feel as if I were sitting in your kitchen and enjoying each dish with you.
I can't wait to read the book when you are done!!
Posted by: Heather | January 22, 2010 at 08:11 AM
This sounds really different and delicious and is something I never would have thought to combine on my own. Thank you.
I wish you luck apartment hunting and am glad that your things arrived! Also, seriously, send me an email, I would be happy to send you any brown sugar or baking powder you could want.
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Posted by: aCLisa | January 22, 2010 at 11:10 AM
Long time i visited your blog.Amazing dish.will try this tonight.
Posted by: cookeaze | January 22, 2010 at 11:48 AM
Oh, this may be simple but how wonderful!!! :-)
Posted by: Krista | January 22, 2010 at 01:52 PM
This soup is simple and so good. I love Peter Berley's books too and cook from them very often. This is such a keeper.
Posted by: lisa (dandysugar) | January 22, 2010 at 07:22 PM
So happy your boxes arrived and you're feeling more settled.
I love sauerkraut and cabbage in all forms. This seems like just the thing to help me keep plodding through the winter.
Posted by: The Leftoverist | January 22, 2010 at 08:43 PM
haven't been here in a while and am so tickled you've moved to berlin to write a book! welcome to berlin!
how wonderful that your boxes have arrived. keeping my fingers crossed you'll find an apartment very soon. (are you checking immobilienscout24 ? i found it quite useful when i moved.)
i can so relate to what you write about your first weeks in berlin. when i first moved here, i was so open-minded but had a tough start emotionally. now i love it. berlin will be kind to you, just give it time!
and, have you seen? the sun is out!!!
Posted by: kristina - no penny for them | January 23, 2010 at 05:52 AM
Thank you for this easy recipe - I will make it soon! I love that it incorporates sauerkraut too! Miss you in NYC, hope you are loving it there. xo Alison H
Posted by: Alison | January 23, 2010 at 11:34 AM
peter berley's book is wonderful - i picked it up immediately with its catchy title and beautiful photos. i love how he describes what a flexitarian is. my belly and heart are already warmed just by reading this.
Posted by: my spatula | January 23, 2010 at 12:20 PM
This looks delicious.I would like to make it.Does this soup freeze well?Will the sauerkraut go bad?
Thanks
Amy
Posted by: Amy Thomas | January 23, 2010 at 01:04 PM
I'd pretty much eat a boiled shoe if it was covered in sauerkraut so this soup looks immensely appealing! and cheap is always good... thank you.
Posted by: A Mouse Bouche | January 23, 2010 at 03:27 PM
I love your phrase "who needs coffeecake when they have soup" I'm precisely the same way. Savory wins over sweet every time, and Soup is something I eat every day. MMMM. This looks fantastic.
Posted by: Dawn Brister (Whineaux) | January 24, 2010 at 01:04 PM
My husband just made a batch of sauerkraut and I couldn't stop eating it yesterday. I think I had it with both lunch and dinner, as well as snacked on it at least twice between meals. We make a Russian version, which includes grated carrots and is not quite as fermented as the store-bought sauerkraut that I've tasted in the US. Russians make sauerkraut soups too, especially in the winter when fresh cabbage may be unavailable. I think I might give your recipe a try!
Posted by: Irina | January 24, 2010 at 02:11 PM
I love soups and I adore leeks. So this is the best recipe for me.
I like the fact that it's cooked with olive oil rather than butter.
Magda
Posted by: my little expat kitchen | January 25, 2010 at 07:21 AM
What an interesting combination! I love leeks and peas, and am working on a relationship with sauerkraut :) Perfect for these winter days...thanks.
Posted by: Megan Gordon | January 25, 2010 at 11:58 AM
I found the idea of sauerkraut and leek so disturbing that I had to give it a try. What can I say - I ate half of the soup (meant for 4 people) for lunch and finished it off for dinner! Slightly embarrassed now, especially since I pimped your recipe with two knacker. So delicious, warming yet light.
Posted by: zeta | January 26, 2010 at 07:34 AM
I should know this, but does "fresh sauerkraut" mean from a jar? What aisle of the grocery store do I find that in?
Posted by: Rachael | January 26, 2010 at 01:33 PM
I've been thinking about this since you posted it, so yesterday I got some fresh sauerkraut and I have just had a big bowl. Delicious! I thought it would be much sharper in flavour from the sauerkraut, but it was quite mild. Next time I'll chop the sauerkraut a bit, as it was difficult to eat the long strings of it.
Posted by: mary | January 26, 2010 at 05:55 PM