Mary Ellen Rae's Cardamom Pistachio Cookies

While others are feverishly making wax-paper wrapped caramels, soaking fruits for cake, stirring away lava-hot apple butter on the stove, or cooking glossy pots of fudge sauce to be jarred, beribboned, and gifted, I am up to my eyeballs in moving to-do lists for this final phase before I leave New York. Now is the time of administrative purgatory - endless hold times to change addresses, shut down bank accounts, and generally close up shop on the past nine years of a life here.

Let me tell you - I'd rather be making caramel.

Christmas baking and cooking have taken a major back seat. In fact, cooking in general has become rather elusive as of late. Yesterday I cooked together frozen spinach, a can of diced tomatoes and some frozen Rancho Gordo beans into a strange little stew of sorts, realizing as I ate that it was the first home-cooked meal I'd had in almost a week (and practically the first vegetables, too). But I'm not complaining. The reason I'm not at home cooking is that I'm out living this city, seeing friends as much as I possibly can, giving them far too many hugs and squeezing as much juice out of this apple as it will let me. It's delicious. The stove can wait.

But before I leave you to get back to packing and blowing my city big, wet kisses, I do have one little something to tell you about, something soft and crumbly, buttery and sweet, vaguely exotic and sparkling. A right little charmer, if I do say so myself.

What on earth am I doing baking Christmas cookies, you ask? Old habits die hard, I suppose. It can't be December if the oven hasn't been fired up at least once for cookies, after all, can it? And in any case, I'm participating in the gorgeous Lottie + Doof's 12 Days of Cookies, which was as fine an excuse as any to pull out a recipe I've been saving to try since 2003.

That recipe came from the Los Angeles Times and was for buttery spritz cookies, made using a cookie press. I used to have one of those things, a kind gift from birthdays past, but somewhere in my many moves the thing went missing. The recipe hung on tight, snug in its little folder, smug in the knowledge I'd make it, come cookie press or high water. The thing is, "buttery spritz cookie" is kind of misleading, makes you think I made something Danish-butter-cookie-like. When really what emerged from the oven was something different.

The truth is, I'm a little tired of the same old Christmas flavors, of cinnamon and hazelnuts, or chocolate and orange peel. There are moments when 2009 feels like the longest year of my life, and others when I realize last Christmas actually just happened last week. Last week! And people expect me to be in the mood for holiday cookies again? The nerve.

So when I saw that this cookie eschewed cinnamon and nutmeg, was austere and plain save for a gentle sprinkling of ground cardamom and a few green shards of pistachio, it became the only thing I wanted to bake. With a nice sparkle of salt to boot, this cookie is a belly-dancing rebuke to the standard brown gingerbread you might just be a little sick of. Between the cardamom and the pistachio, munching on these cookies made me feel like I was celebrating Advent in a souk somewhere, the scent of rosewater hanging heavily in the air, warm breezes blowing through a narrow window.

Instead of spritzing the dough through a cookie press, I rolled it into a log and chilled it until firm, then sliced it and topped the cookies with their sugary green décor. I made the mistake, though I hope you'll forgive me, of using regular sugar instead of the coarse decorating sugar. I just can't bear to buy anything else kitchen-wise, before the move. The thing is, you really do want that large-grained crunch on top. Regular sugar threatens to push these into saccharine territory. Also, I let them come to room temperature before baking, but I'm not sure why I did that. Don't bother, I'd say.

These cookies are delicate little things. Let them cool on the parchment-lined baking sheet before carefully removing them to a cooling rack. They shouldn't crumble too much, then, but these are definitely not the hardy types. They should be eaten, rather delicately, I'd say, alongside a cup of tea, rather than plunked lustily into the hot mug. Or packed gently between gossamer leaves of tissue paper in a box for presenting. They're an unexpected twist in a box of holiday cookies, an exotic little pop of flavor and crunch.

And with that, lovelies, I'm going to step away from the computer for a bit. I don't know if I'll post again before Berlin. I have a week left and an awful lot to do. I'll be updating my Twitter feed, if you want to follow along there, and my Flickr page, of course. I know you know that my heart is filled with the greatest jumble of emotions, exhilaration and sadness taking turns setting up shop. I think right now I'm firmly entrenched in I-can't-believe-this-is-happening territory, eyes wide and happy, eyes filled with tears.

This life, man. Who knew?

Cardamom Pistachio Cookies
Makes about five dozen 1.5 – 2-inch cookies

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled
1/2 cup superfine sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 egg yolks
2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds, crushed using a mortar and pestle
1/4 cup sparkling decorative sugar
1/4 cup chopped pistachio nuts

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Using an electric mixer, cream the butter until smooth. Add the sugar and beat for one minute. Add the vanilla extract and egg yolks and beat an additional minute.

2. Sift together the flour and salt. Spoon the flour mixture into the butter mixture and add the cardamom. Beat on low speed, then increase to medium and mix until the batter is combined.

3. Spoon the dough into a cookie press and press out onto ungreased baking sheets. Or roll the dough into a log, wrap in parchment paper and chill for two hours before slicing into rounds and arranging evenly onto the cookie sheets. In a small bowl, combine the sparkling sugar and the pistachio nuts, then sprinkle some on each cookie.

4. Bake just until the edges of the cookies start to turn a pale golden color, about 8 to 10 minutes. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheet, then remove carefully to a wire rack. The cookies will firm up as they cool. When they are completely cool, store in an airtight container. They may be kept frozen up to two months.

Comments

[maggie]

Best of luck with the move!!

[notyet100]

ummmmm

[Zoomie]

Think of Berlin waiting with open arms, have a smooth move, and we'll look forward to the next post from Germany.

[Julie]

I'm excitedly looking forward to your first post from Berlin and experiencing a little twinge of sadness to read your last post from NYC.

[Dana Tommasino]

These perky little things go straight into my gift boxes... I have loved your Wednesday Chef. Thank you for it. I also can't wait for your, no doubt, uber-illuminating posts from Germany. Best of luck with all of it.

The moment of change is the only poem - Adrienne Rich

[Adrienne]

Best of luck to you, Luisa, with your last week! And thanks for giving me a reason to use the cardamom I bought with no plan, these look delicious.

[Emily]

You are so wonderful and inspiring, Ms. Luisa. Good luck and take care. I can't wait to read you circa Berlin!

[www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1047505248]

i'm with zoomie! i think that it's lovely that you took time out to do christmas cookies:) don't forget a box of kleenex for when you are taking off & then for landing...

[Tracy (Amuse-bouche for Two)]

Chin up...deep breath...the flip side is going to be breathtaking.

[TheKitchenWitch]

Those look delectable and the perfect thing for tea.

Best wishes to you. Run straight forward, take a flying leap, and don't look back!

[Charmaine]

Don't forget "Du bist ein Berliner!" These are exciting times; new beginnings, new and old friends and your phenomenal book deal! Thank you for the many illuminating and helpful posts; I look forward to your next entry and recipe from Berlin or wherever else in this wonderful world you may be! Safe travels and Fröhliche Weinachten!

[Victoria]

Well, I'm not looking at this as an ending but a beginning.

Lots of luck. If you need anything done that I can do for you, let me know. I'm only an email away.

Meanwhile, have a great move and a happy, happy Christmas.

Remember, you're still The Wednesday Chef!!!!

[Flotch]

Luisa I can so identify with you being absent from the kitchen as I have just relocated from Dubai to Bombay and completely did not have any time to get more than breakfast on the the table. Will be finally moving to Toronto in about three months and will be sharing my mother's kitchen in the meanwhile. All the best with the big move and looking forward to reading all the brand new posts from Berlin. Bon voyage!

[Caitlin]

I just saw these cookies on Tim's site, and had to jump over immediately for the whole story - these look great!

And it is more than understandable why this is your only foray into the kitchen until Berlin...

Best of luck with the move and we are all excited to hear about your nest adventures!!

[CookiePie]

NYC will miss you!

Those cookies are lovely - love the flavor combo!

All the best to you!!!

[Jennifer]

May you savor the remaining NYC moments and be filled with awe as you take flight (quite literally!) toward your new adventures. I wish you happy and safe travels!

[Kasey]

Good luck with the move! These cookies look stunning.

[Anna]

These cookies look delicious -definetly something new to spice up the Christmas anticipation. I know how you feel about moving, we also moved (back) to Germany a few years ago from California. Now living in the Netherlands, though. Berlin is a really great city -I'm sure you'll like it there!

[Angela]

Dear Luisa, I've only just stumbled upon your blog and can't believe I've not read you before. Your writing is so alive and from the heart, and well, you just feel like a bit of a kindred spirit. That's part of your talent as a writer, I suppose- making us strangers feel strangely close. And reading about your leap into the unknown, it reminds me of what brought me to Berlin as well. I lept into this city 12 months ago, and now it's embracing me with even more unknowns, but so much potential as well. What a place. I do, however, sometimes feel a little without foodie friends here. If you're ever interested in trading some Berlin discoveries, please let me know! My blog is new, but very very earnest ...

[ann]

I cant wait to steal 10 minutes of your time (I hope it's just 10 minutes, I mean, because if it's longer, then I have a problem!) when I come to pick up the dresser and to say goodbye-ish, because I'm sure our paths will cross again. Hopefully with cookies!

[Dawn (KitchenTravels)]

Luisa - I hope the move goes smoothly! Can't wait to read your first post from your new home.

[Katie @ Cozydelicious]

I don't think it gets better than cardamom and pistachios! I hope that the smell of these cookis baking (which I'm sure was awesome) helped motivate your packing!

[Krista]

I hope your last days in the city are precious. Thank you for giving up precious time to share these lovely bits with us. :-)

[Alice]

Saw your cookies on Lottie + Doof, they look so pretty. This is the first time I visit your blog, will definitely come back. Good luck with the move!

[Robin]

These cookies sound lovely and delicate! I've been a lurking reader for a long long time and just want to say how much I enjoy your evocative writing. The food jumps off the page! I can't wait to read your book. I'm sure NY will miss you, but look forward to your posts from Berlin.

(If you have time before departing NY, there's a new craft show on Pier 94 this coming weekend (NY One of A Kind Show) with all items handmade in America)...

Hope your move is easy and your holidays wonderful!

[Caroline]

beautiful post, so fun to read, interesting writing and great photos. I always feel like I am dropping in on a friend when I stop by...

[Eleana]

good luck with everything!

[Megan]

Hope all goes well with the move.

www.urbanspicecompany.com

[la petite chef]

Wow I love the sound of this! Great site! :)

[Pooja]

long time lurker, but first time commenting here. have tried many of your recipes and loved them all. its funny that as you are getting ready for your move from NYC to Berlin, i am packing my bags to go back to India after 6 years in the US. Wish you the very best for youre life ahead in Berlin. :)

[Molly]

Good for you, baking amidst the chaos! Moved our family of 5 cross country (nothing like cross-Atlantic, I'm sure!) this time last year, and found great solace in being up to my elbows in butter and flour in between house showings and jet lag. Almost there! *Molly

[Suzanne Quinn]

Best wishes as you pack. Thanks for another wonderful recipe and endearing note. So lovely, so happy you will continue with the blog.

[Bobbie]

Journeying mercies, Luisa. Hope Berlin suits you well and keeps you happy.

[Rose-Anne]

Wow, Luisa, you really know how to say good-bye to a city! "...squeezing as much juice out of this apple as it will let me. It's delicious." I love that!

These cookies sound amazing. I'm sort of relieved to hear you talk about being tired of holiday flavors because at the ripe old age of 28, I have yet to become really attached to any Christmas cooking traditions and I feel downright Grinchy when I admit it. But even regardless of all that, I love cardamom and pistashio--any time, anywhere. By any chance, have you tried Nigella Lawson's pistashio crescents from _How to Eat_? They're quite lovely made as she dictates, but now I'm thinking that a thimbleful of cardamom would take them to new heights. Yum!

[lynh]

Lu - I made these via the Veganomicon recipe. (so no butter, no egg) I know it sounds hard to believe, but even without the lovely buttery flavor, these were amazing cookies. I guess because I am a sucker for cardamom and pistachios and middle eastern sweets that are sometimes overly sweet. Does your posting of this recipe mean you have your sweet tooth back? (I mean, you rediscovered broccoli via heston blumenthal after so many years, is it such a big stretch that you might learn to love sweets again??)

[Julia]

These look beautiful, and might even entice me to turn on the oven when it's 30 degrees. It's strange being in Australia for Christmas - I wonder whether it will feel like Christmas without my usual baking frenzy! But these cookies sound so tasty...

Best of luck with the move, and enjoy New York and your friends as much as you can in the meantime! My best friend and I are on opposite sides of the equator but we follow and discuss your blog every week, and we were so excited to read your news about the book! We'll be right here waiting for your first post from Berlin.

[Erika from The Pastry Chef At Home]

What a lovely alternative to all the holiday cookies out at the moment.

Pistachio and cardamom are a great blend of "exotic" flavors that go so well with butter cookies.

good luck with the move! :)

[tobias cooks!]

I love the use of cardamon. great cookies.

[lisa (dandysugar)]

One of my favorite combinations! I have a similar recipe that I make around the holidays. Love that these are just a little different than the usual holiday cookies out there.

[Anne]

I'm so sad to see you leave this wonderful city -- all the very best of luck. A friend is stationed in Basel and enamored with Berlin; I've sent her your link so that we can both read your impressions of the city while you work on your new endeavors.

I've just discovered your blog quite recently, actually, and am bookmarking recipes left and right. I've read this post a few times, as I have a particular weakness for pistachio-flavored sweets, and can't get them out of my mind. Thanks for bringing it to everyone's attention.

Have a safe journey and I can't wait to see what comes next!

[Heidi]

I can definitely relate to your plight Luisa! I'm also preparing for a move to another city (though it's not across the ocean!), as well as for a holiday vacation at my family's home in another province. Somewhere in the midst of all that activity I decided it would be a great idea to make all of my Christmas gifts this year, but now all I want to do is go out and enjoy my last moments before the move!

[The Leftoverist]

Good luck this week, Luisa. I hope you get to say every goodbye you want to, that you have some memorable meals, no matter how simple, and that you arrive safe and sound in the new chapter of your life.

[Kyla]

I made these last night and they are lovely! Thanks!

[Raphaelle]

Hey Luisa,

Good luck with the move - maybe I'll see you in the Hauptstadt?

Raphaelle

[Zoë]

I just made these for Xmas presents...they are lovely! Thank you for this and also for your inspiring posts, both in terms of food and life...

[Samantha]

Best of luck with your move Luisa, I look forward to reading about your adventures in Berlin.

And thank you for this cookie recipe too, I'm going to make them tonight for friends.

[janet]

Godspeed to your new ventures Luisa, enjoy the sparkle of NY like a Christmas tree, and welcome home to Berlin, what a festive time to start anew! Hugs to you

[Kelsey/TheNaptimeChef]

We will miss you Luisa! Safe travels and enjoy the holidays in Berlin. I love this post, too, I just pulled out my cookie press today!

[joanne]

Thanks for one more beautiful cardamom recipe. The cookies were light, crumbly, buttery and cardamomy...what else would we want?
Enjoy your life...what an exciting adventure!

[Maya]

Good luck with the move :) I may have this a try this week.