Pete Wells' Red Shrimp Chowder with Corn

I totally respect rules about food. Italians, I think, might be the kings of this habit: No grated cheese on fish pasta! No cappuccinos after breakfast! No cream in pasta carbonara! And sit down when the pasta is ready and eat it right away, for crying out loud, not 10 minutes later after you've finished washing your hands or finishing your milk or both, what's the matter with you anyway? (Oh, Italian children. How you suffer, I know. Console yourself with this: one day, you too can become a tyrant in the kitchen. Being a grown-up is so sweet.)

So I get it when other people say things like a real bouillabaisse must be made with rascasse. If you don't have rascasse, you don't have bouillabaisse. Or, hmm, that a real Bavarian pretzel cannot be eaten alone, unless you're some kind of sissy. It must always be accompanied by Weißwurst and sweet mustard (and beer, if we're being really exacting). Or, as Pete Wells pointed out the other day, that real chowder can be made only with seafood known to the Pilgrims, quite a lot of it indeed, and potatoes. No discussions, no protestations, no nothing.

Very, very luckily for all of us, though, Pete seems to be an accomodating kind of food editor and instead of indoctrinating his children with rules about food (like, er, the people in my family), he quite willingly gave in to their tastes and fashioned this soup (he calls it chowder) that is totally, seriously, deeply (all rules aside) delicious. Hey, old-time readers! I'd go so far as to say that this one's lamination-worthy. Boom! How exciting is that?

And it turns out that it's pretty fun cooking, too. At least for those of us who like to futz around in the kitchen (this one is worth the futz!). You make this neat little shrimp stock, first, using shrimp shells and corncobs and basil stems. Doesn't that sound rather old-fashioned and glamorous? While I made it, I kept wishing I was in peeptoe heels and pearls, smoking a cigarette and shouting into the other room at my dinner companion getting drunk on a gimlet, instead of listening to the radio and padding around the kitchen in a pair of cuffed khakis and Chucks. In fact, that shrimp stock might be the best part about this soup.

After that, you cook together garlic, onions, carrots and fennel, which just seems like such an ingenious addition since it infuses the soup with the faintest (barely, barely perceptible!) hint of aniseed (sort of like Pernod in the afore-mentioned bouillabaisse, which is all just very culturally referential and cute).  Then in goes the fancy stock and a bunch of cubed potatoes, half of which you subsequently mash to thicken the soup, a shower of fresh corn (bing! Forget what I said about the shrimp stock! Is this corn the best part of the soup or what?), a handful of canned tomatoes (squeeze them into bits with your hands!), and a bay leaf. Away that concoction simmers while you munch on pickles or crackers or whatever you munch on when you're hungry and dinner still isn't ready.

Don't forget the hot pepper! Sheesh. I take that back about the corn. The hot pepper might be the best part about this soup.

Then, when the whole thing is cooked and thickened and fragrant and driving you seriously batty with its smell, you turn off the heat and drop in an entire plate of chopped shrimp. The shrimp cook in the residual heat of the soup, leaving them tender and sweet and fantastic. That might be the best about this soup. No, seriously. Except for the crowning glory of sliced basil on top. Right? Sliced basil is the best.

I loved this chowder, thick and savory and sweet and fragrant with summer. As far as I'm concerned, traditional chowder can take a hike. I'd rather eat this stuff any day of the week. Don't people say that rules were made to be broken?  I'm going to leave the hand-wringing to the New Englanders.

Thank goodness, too, because I left out the bacon. *Ducks* Oh, and next time? I'd only use half the shrimp. *Ducks again*

Delicious!

Red Shrimp Chowder with Corn
Serves 4 to 6

4 cups fish stock, clam broth or water
2 pounds shrimp, shelled, chopped into pieces roughly 1/2-inch thick, shells reserved (1 pound would be plenty, too)
4 ears corn, shucked, kernels cut off, cobs and kernels reserved
2 basil sprigs, leaves cut into fine ribbons, stems reserved
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 pound bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (I left this out)
1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 to 4 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/4-inch dice (I left this out, too)
Half a fennel bulb, cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
Salt
1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1 bay leaf
Red pepper flakes, to taste
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, chopped, juice reserved
Freshly ground black pepper

1. In a medium pot, bring the fish stock, clam broth or water to a boil with the shrimp shells, corncobs and basil stems and simmer for about 20 minutes.

2. In a large pot set over medium heat, melt the butter and fry the bacon in it. When the bacon is crisp, fish it out with a slotted spoon and set it aside. Fry the onion, garlic, celery, fennel and carrots in the hot fat until softened, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

3. Strain the shrimp-flavored broth into the pot. Add the corn kernels, potatoes, bay leaf and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Bring to a boil, cover the pot, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes.

4. Using the back of a wooden spoon, crush a third to a half of the potato chunks against the side of the pot. Stir in the chopped tomatoes and juice, return to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes more.

5. Add the shrimp, stir well, taste and adjust the seasoning, adding salt, black pepper and more red pepper flakes to taste. (The shrimp will cook from the heat of the soup.) Ladle into bowls and sprinkle with the basil ribbons and some bacon.

Comments

[meleyna]

I am SO making this this weekend. Or, as soon as possible, as we're moving this weekend. And the fantastic part about it is I don't have to share--the boy thing don't eat no fish. (And he calls himself a New England-er...) But I must say, I would imagine it would be much more enjoyable getting tipsy on that gimlet yourself, rather than your guests. Pass the gin, please!

[maggie]

Oh, lovely. Perfect use for the last corn of the season. But I'm sure a little bacon wouldn't hurt.. :)

[Shauna from Piece of Cake]

Have you ever heard that saying, "They have tried and they have tried, but sex is not better than sweet corn"? Combine sweet corn with shrimp and well...it's the sort of thing where you should probably be alone while eating it.

I made a shrimp and corn bisque once that involved making my own shrimp stock--you aren't kidding, it does indeed require futzing. But so, SO worth it.

PS-I am still giddy over seeing frequent new posts from you again!

[Christine]

Looks like yankee gumbo- I love gumbo......

[KT]

Yowza! I am sitting here brushing my teeth before bed, I already cooked dinner after a longish day, and I STILL feel the urge to make this immediately. Maybe I could fix it for breakfast tomorrow. Off to dream of sweet corn and shrimp. zzz.

[TheKitchenWitch]

Honey, have you been watching Mad Men again? The peeptoe heels, pearls, gimlets and cigarettes (while cooking, crazy!) makes me giggle. Although Betty Draper isn't going to make anything this delicious while swilling her beverage of choice.

It's thinking about snowing here, and this recipe looks futz-worthy.

[Victoria]

I am making this on Saturday for sure.

I still had corn in the garden when I left on Sunday, so if there isn't a freeze this week, I will have corn picked seconds before cooking!

Luisa, what did you use - fish stock, clam broth, or water?

[Luisa]

Shauna - I haven't heard that! It made me giggle :)

Victoria - I used water. And corn in your garden, lucky!

[Jess]

I loved this post, Luisa. What fun and beautiful writing. Thanks for a great start to my day.

[LeeAnn]

Oh my that looks absolutely incredible! What a perfect dish to try this weekend with the end of summer/beginning of fall feeling weather. I probably won't make it in the peep toes, but may give in to the gimlet.

[Kylie of Thin Crust, Deep Dish]

You're so right: rules were made to be broken. Or at least that's what I like to think. This looks great. Three cheers for successful rule-breaking!

[Julia]

That chowder looks divine and hearty all at once. This was a truly "you" post - from the images of you while you're doing the cooking, to the emphatic nods I can hear behind your reasoning.
I like bacon, but I think I would have left it out too.

[Sam@BingeNYC]

OH my goodness. This looks so, so good. I'd probably sneak a *tiny* bit of bacon in there, but I'm sure its not necessary. I love that this is filling & refined at the same time! Gorgeous. And that's not usually a word I use for chowder!

[Amuse-bouche for Two]

That looks like comfort in a bowl.

[Chelsea]

Another lovely post! Shrimp stock is divine. I just made a pasta sauce out of it last week. Sweet and savory all at once. It really is rather intoxicating. But with corn, hot pepper and basil?? I think I need to go buy some more shrimp!!

[A Mouse Bouche]

oh that sounds heavenly. Perfect transition meal from summer into fall--all the fresh delicious flavors from summer combined in the distinctly cool/cold weather pleasure of standing over a pot of soup, stirring and wafting. yum.

[The Spice Doc]

You've been popping up a lot lately with posts and I'm enjoying every one of them. Wonderful writing and wonderful shrimp & corn!

[Dawn in CA]

I saw that article in the NYT recently. So happy you tested out the recipe. I'm having a terribly boring sandwich for lunch while reading this, and I am ACHING for a bite of this soup. But half the shrimp next time? Bite your tongue! Or better yet, send the unused half my way.

[The Leftoverist]

Yum, yum, yum. Do you want me to spice up these comments a little bit and malign this soup? I can't. Not even for the sake of variety. What a delightful end-of-summer soup.

[ann]

Wow. You should totally have Pete's job, because when he described this soup I was all *yawn* cough, meh, about it. But now that I've heard *you* tell me about it Luisa, I cannot imagine *anything* else that I would want to make this weekend when we stay in the city and I can get sweet, fresh, delicious shrimp! What a nice piece :-) Thanks for sharing!

[Laura]

And this is what I'm making for dinner on Sunday night. Looks absolutely genius!

[gemma]

looks YUM but too much work so i am hoping that maybe MAYBE you might care to save some, freeze it and bring it over?

[Somia]

What lovely writing. I do not eat shrimp but I completely devoured your post. Thanks for the pleasure!

[Ms. Hedda]

Sounds like you have recovered from the red snapper! Your post is so bursting with enthusiasm and contentment, it was a joy to read. I'm completely convinced that this dish will be a wonderful adventure when I make it on the weekend.

[Isabelle]

I can just taste all those fabulous flavours as you describe them, and it does sound like heaven! I especially agree about the chopped basil on top ... SO good. But shrimp, corn and potatoes sound amazing too. Maybe I will make this next week with fresh market corn. Thanks!

[healthierkitchen]

I passed up clipping this recipe when it ran but you make it sound much more compelling. This is a great segue into fall cooking - soup, but still corn and basil. Thanks.

[Luisa]

Gemma - I kept thinking once it was done and I was drowning in shrimp chowder, "where are my neighbors so I can give them some of this stuff?" Sob, too far away.

Somia and Ms. Hedda - thank you! :)

[Drew]

Might not be truly Italian then, but pasta carbonara is so nice with cream...

[lee]

looks really nice will be trying this

picture cake

[Emily]

Wow. I am making this TONIGHT.

[Mytable]

Wow, what a coincidence..it's very very similar to what I ad-libbed just the other night. But yours sounds so much better. I was wasn't sure I could use the cobs...and I didn't have any shrimp. Next time tho, for sure, I'll follow this idea. And corn's still sort of in season...and the garden still has fresh herbs. Oh, summer, please don't leave us yet.
Thanks, Louisa!

[UK Foodie]

Wow, that chowder looks fantastic, I can almost smell and taste it!

[joanna goddard]

oh my goodness, this looks so amazing!

[Sues]

I love recipes that are fun to cook :) Especially when they come out looking pretty and taste good too!

[Mélanie Trastulli]

This sounds a little time consuming, I'm starving when I come home from work... But just the way you wrote really made me want to try the recipe. Maybe I'll prepare it for the next day, so it's ready at 8:00 for dinner. This goes directly in my "to do" list! :)

[Eralda (The Split Pea)]

Sounds delectable! I love the addition of fennel in the soup - such a good substitute for celery. Yum!

[Alina]

This soup must have an extremely rich and diverse taste, and of course sliced basil is the best :) and as for Italians, hehe, yeah I've heard that "no cappuccinos after breakfast" so many times that I never dare to have one after 11 a.m. any longer... :)

[Buntcooky]

Looks so delicious. What a yummy Shrimp Chowder. I will make this for dinner tomorrow.

[Karen]

I made this yesterday (Sunday)...delicious! And just as yummy heated up for lunch at work today. Thanks for the always inspiring posts!

[Charles Shere]

Okay, fine: rules are made to be broken. But, dammit, Bouillabaisse shouldn't have lobster in it. Some of us can't eat shellfish with legs. I love Bouillabaisse, but I can't eat it if it ain't authentic!

[Lynn]

Weißwurst. Ohmygoodness. I am happy just thinking about it.
Who needs pretzels anyhow?

[Figtreeapps]

L adore food rules...Im always afraid to break them..Figtreeapps

[Carrie]

Made this for my sister's birthday the other night, and it was absolutely delicious!! Even better for leftovers the next day!

[Lauren Z]

Just made this. Ah! mazing. So much fun to make too. Thanks for the post.

[www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=819891697]

I made this last night. Used one pound of shrimp. Left the Bacon out, but did include the celery. Used a can of Bar Harbor fish stock and two cups of water. Could have used a bit more Basil than I was able to scrounge off the last remaining plant in my sweetie's garden.

But it was damn good, and really not that time consuming to make (a little over an hour, with some sous chef help from the sweetie about half way through). I think you could probably bang it out in under an hour easily with two people working on the chopping, shrimp peeling, etc.

[kellypea]

Mmm...shrimp & corn. A match made in heaven for sure. And yes, food rules are to be followed. No question.

[anencourager]

If I hadn't of just created my very own chili, which my husband said was a "10", I would be in the kitchen whipping this up. Next week! And, dang, Julia is still waiting for me to try her Boeff Bourginon (or however it's spelled)... If only I could live in my apron!!!!

[Cathy]

Being from the Mississippi Coast, this is a seafood chowder I think I would like and could make without having to take out a second mortgage.

Loved the piece in Gourmet. Know just what you mean about the butter being so different in Germany. When I went to Munich 2 years ago, everyone got a kick out of how I kept raving about all the different kinds of butter and how tasty it was. In my home grocery we have 2: Land o' Lakes and the store brand.

[annie]

1. this soup looks delicious.
2. this is not chowder. chowder is milk and cream based. i am from new england. i know these things. (i even live on an island that catches things from the sea to support its very livelihood.)
3. i will make it and eat it someday, i'm sure.
4. try maine shrimp sometime, they're delightful.

[Susan Esayian]

Thank you for posting this recipe! I made it this evening and was really pleased with myself and the results - even though I had to tweak a couple of things due to availability and such.

1. I had shrimp in the freezer but they had already been shelled - thus, no shrimp shells for stock.

2. It's October and there wasn't an ear of corn to be found - thus no corn cobs for stock (I used frozen for the chowder)

3. I found a great canned fish stock from Maine called Bar Harbor that I used with decent results considering I wasn't able to enhance with shells and cobs.

4. May have been a little heavy handed on the red pepper flakes... but ah well.

5. Felt like I could have used the entire head of fennel as the flavor was not very noticeable - but I may have had a small head to deal with.

6. Drank wine and crackers instead of gimlets.... will work on the latter next time.

Thanks again!