Gene Opton's Ethiopian Honey-Spice Bread

I've been brainstorming.

A home is not a home until bread is baked in it.

Or, maybe:

Bread baking makes a home?

Let's see, how about this:

A loaf in the oven, a home complete.

That last one isn't so bad, but still, I don't know. I'm not going to become famous for my phrases anytime soon. But I really do think that it's true, for me at least, that the first time you are motivated to bake bread in your new apartment, the first time the warm smell of yeast and rising dough perfumes your rooms, is the first time you can really settle in and sigh with contentment about being home.

Every once in a while, I find you simply need to force yourself to stay home for a few days, unplugged and quiet. Read in bed in your nightgown past lunchtime, organize your books alphabetically (or by spine color!), stare out the window at the cloud patterns for a bit, and if you're lucky enough to be somewhere rainy, listen to the droplets falling on windows and the sound car tires make when they slide past on wet, asphalted streets.

Those are the days for bread-baking, for easing yourself slowly into the start of the autumn chill.

So, I'll be honest: I've been a little bored by the newspaper recipes lately. More than lately, actually. All summer, I think. I've been clipping dutifully and hoarding as usual, but I haven't found anything in months that actually makes me impatient to go to the grocery store and get cooking. Instead, this weekend I started nosing around in my other recipe clippings and emerged feeling inspired. Imagine: a sweet butter-and-milk-enriched yeast bread from Ethiopia, of all places, spiced with cloves, cinnamon, and ginger and an entire tablespoon of ground coriander. Doesn't that sound like something you'd want to make right away, no question about it?

Let me tell you that you should. It's simply lovely.

Your house will smell like Christmas, first of all. Also, you'll get to feel all exotic and interesting: you're baking Ethiopian bread! Best of all, the bread keeps well, so you will have homemade bread for breakfast for a whole week at least (it toasts nicely, too). Gene Opton says that Ethiopians usually just eat this bread spread with butter and honey, but I found it most delicious eaten only with unsalted butter. The bread is sweet enough from all the honey in the dough, and the spices need a little bit of cooling balance, which is just what a nice thin layer of butter provides.

I always find September both comforting and sort of terrifying. On one hand, it's the loveliest month of the year. Still sunny and warm, but with just enough nip in the air to make for cool nights and perfect sleeping weather. Limbs still tanned from the summer, but you can pull out your thin sweaters and look forward to warm shoes again. On the other hand, it's just a few warp-speed weekends until Thanksgiving and then Christmas. When you get to September, the end of the year suddenly looms. Did you get everything done that you wanted to this year? Is it turning out the way you hoped? Do you have your ducks in a row for the months still ahead that will zip past so fast you might just get whiplash?

Don't worry. Take a deep breath and breathe. And remember this: when you bake bread, everything slows down. Life feels more manageable again. And coming up with phrases about bread-baking to accompany you into posterity seems the most important thing you can do.

Ethiopian Honey-Spice Bread
Makes 1 loaf

1 tablespoon active dry yeast
1/4 cup warm water
1 teaspoon sugar or honey
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
1 large egg
1/2 cup mild honey
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 cup whole milk, warmed
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
4 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1. Combine the yeast, water, sugar or honey, and ginger in a small ceramic bowl and set in a warm, draft-free place until it bubbles vigorously.

2. Combine the egg, honey, spices and salt in a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer. Add the milk and butter. Mix in 1 cup of the flour.

3. Add the yeast mixture and beat until all the ingredients are well blended. Add more flour, 1/2 cup at a time, using only enough to make a soft dough. Use your hands, if needed, to work in the last bit of flour.

4. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead the bread by folding it end to end, pressing down and pushing forward several times with the heel of your hand. (The dough will be sticky. Use a dough scraper to clear the board and turn the mass of dough. Avoid adding more flour.)

5. In about 5 minutes the dough will become smoother and more elastic. Shape into a rough ball and place in a large oiled bowl, cover with a tea towel, and let rise until doubled in bulk.

6. Heavily butter a 3-quart round baking dish that is 3 inches deep, such as a casserole or an enameled Dutch oven. Punch down the dough with a single blow of your fist. Knead the dough for a few minutes, shape into a rough ball, and place in the prepared pan. (Press the dough down so that the bottom of the pan is covered completely.) Cover and let rise again until the dough has doubled and reaches the top of the pan.

7. At least 20 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.

8. Bake for 60 minutes, or until the bread is nicely rounded on top and a light golden brown. Leave in the pan for 5 minutes, then remove and transfer to a rack to cool completely before slicing.

Comments

[Anna]

That all sounds so lovely!

[TheKitchenWitch]

Oh! My house will smell like Christmas? What a lovely thought.

I am scared of yeast, and yet you make it sound so inviting? My mama used to make bread all through long North Dakota winters, and nothing--not ONE thing--smells as good.

I might just have to brave yeast this winter. Just might.

[Monica]

This totally makes me want to play hooky and hang around my apartment smelling yeast all day.

Welcome home!

[Adrienne]

Oh that does sound tasty. As far as summer recipes go, I did find one I liked - and I meant to tell you, because it was a discovery you inspired! I was all intimidated by mussels a few months ago when you posted that Moroccan carrot soup, but last week in Bittman's column I saw the mussels and pasta and beans concoction he had posted. I am now a mussels convert because they were as easy to deal with as you said they would be! Thanks to the addition of some bitter greens (mustard, I think) that had been declining in my fridge, the whole dish was right up my alley.

[ncsuemme]

Wow, that looks simply delicious.

So, since I saw you were struggling for quotes, this is my newest one that I feel is very appropriate: "Home is where the oven is warm and the stove is full."

[ncsuemme]

Hahaha, sorry, that was supposed to be "Home is where the oven is warm and the stomach is full."

[ToKissTheCook]

I've not been a bread baker before, apart from some very basic drop biscuits and yeast-less concoctions like banana or pumpkin bread (a loaf pan being the only thing keeping it from being called cake).

That said, I have that exact oval LC. And the spices in here sound like they would make a place smell comforted and spicy in such a lovely way. I think I've found my inaugural loaf..thank you for that!

[maggie]

Am glad you're feeling settled in your new home at last. September is a bit of a wistful month for me, but how nice to be able to turn the oven on for awhile without dying of heat!

[Amanda]

If there is one thing that I love the most in the world, it is settling down in your new place. A whole day, spent puttering around the house. Toss in baking bread, and I am sold.

[Amuse-bouche for Two]

We're swinging from cool to warm and back here in Baltimore lately. I look forward to preheating the oven for a day of bread baking soon.

[Chelsea]

What a lovely post. You really do write beautifully.

We had our first rain over the weekend. I didn't bake bread, but I did braise lamb shanks.

September is beautiful and difficult. It's a little sad to see the end of Summer, but Fall brings so much warmth to the kitchen. I really can't wait.

[Laura]

I couldn't agree more about the soothing qualities of bread baking. It's become one of my favorite activities! And this recipe that you've posted most certainly does make me want to run to the store immediately. Or at least home to a well stocked kitchen. I adore the fall, but always find October to be my sweet spot...September still holds the risk of the odd unbearably hot day and the leaves still haven't turned! Plus there's absolutely no hope of snow (one of my favorite weather conditions).

[Penny De Los Santos]

this sounds amazing and really makes me wish for a cold, rainy day.

[Dawn in CA]

Joyce Maynard said, "A good home must be made, not bought." My riff on that quote is that "A good home is baked, not bought." I think my version has a nice ring to it.

The bread I baked over the weekend was a disaster - didn't rise, stuck like glue to the pan, ugh. Maybe I can redeem myself with this one? Let's hope so.

[yesdavidishere.wordpress.com]

Oh My. This looks divine! It makes me want to start baking today!

[Tim]

You made me cry with remembering my mother who for as long as I can remember used to bake our daily bread...she used to smell of flour and yeast.

[anna]

This sounds so good! I'll definitely have to try it once I'm done being breaded out from the Viennoisserie unit at school. I haven't made bread in my apartment yet, though I have considered it. When it cools down some I'll come looking for this recipe again.

[Jes]

My house smells like Christmas, success! I haven't sliced it yet (it's cooling), but with the crappy day I've had I can tell that it's going to be so much better thanks to this recipe. Thanks for posting!

[Kao]

I love your writing. I'm really grateful that we have seasons.

[Chloe]

A loaf in the oven makes a house a home.

[moxie]

This sounds fabulous! I'm wondering if you could substitute teff flour for some of the all-purpose? I have some left over from making Ethiopian flat bread. I think I'll give it a try.

[Francesca]

The loveliest post! I'm already catching myself taking stock of the year, thinking of things I should have done but haven't. Now I know that I should and will bake Ethiopian honey-spice bread this weekend. Thanks!

[Luisa]

The Kitchen Witch - don't be afraid of yeast! Just make sure that your kitchen is draft-free and relatively warm. This recipe is particularly easy because it has you "feed" the yeast with a bit of sugar to help it along. Check your yeast packets to make sure they're fresh. And remember that if you can find fresh yeast to bake with, it's usually even harder to screw up than packaged yeast. Good luck!

Chelsea - thank you so much!

Dawn - I like that one! Has a nice ring to it. :)

Tim - oh dear, I'm so sorry. But how lovely to have such a warm, inviting memory of your mother.

Jes - you're fast! I'm sitting down to slice for breakfast now.

Kao - thank you!

Chloe - LOVE it! It's perfect.

Moxie - the thing about teff, which you probably know, is that it doesn't have any gluten in it, so you need to combine it with other flours in order to be able to knead it and have it rise. Good luck!

[www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1078884746]

If you like the tangy Berlin butter, then go right out and get yourself some goat butter. It is absolutely tangy and delicious--unlike any other butter I have tasted (in all my travels). Jack Dickerson, artist

[Lisa (dinner party)]

Great post--I feel the same way about September. I can't believe the month is already half over too! I need to hurry up and bake some bread!

PS: Loved your Gourmet diary too.

[Ashley]

Sometimes when I'm too tired to bake I'll put a pot of water and cinnamon on the stove just so my house will smell exactly like what I imagine this bread smells like.
This bread looks fantastic - good enough to give me the push I need to actually bake rather than just boiling scented water. :)

[The Food Hunter]

This sounds delicious. I've got to give it a try.

[Marie]

I baked bread this weekend, too! I agree -- its wonderful to spend a day making bread. It feels so basically life-sustaining and good. I feel like I am taking extra special care of myself and loved ones when I bake bread.

The Ethiopian honey spice sounds amazing!!! I can't wait to try it. Maybe I'll try to dedicate one day a month to having a nice slow day baking bread... wouldn't that be a nice tradition to start?

[Mary]

Oh I can almost smell it! What a delightful, easy sounding bread to make. Thank you for this!

[The Leftoverist]

Have you named that Dutch oven? It looks important enough to be named.

If I can quit looking at that and look at the bread, yum. And I agree--September is bittersweet.

[The Leftoverist]

P.S. Made the lemon blueberry buckle this morning. !!!! Is there anything better than soaking something with lemon syrup? I don't think so.

[temp agencies]

I want some piece of this delicious bread. Thanks for providing a recipe.

[Volunteer opportunities]

Oh! It looks very mouth watering and delicious. I would love to try this recipe. Thanks!

[asplashof.wordpress.com]

Looks amazing. And to Ashley, boiling scented water is a genious idea!

[J-Bird]

This may seem a dumb question (I feel like it's something I should know without asking), but are you baking this with the lid on, or off?

[adrienne]

Mmmm the bread looks/sounds amazing! Loved your post on Gourmet.com too :)

[Natascha]

Dear Luisa!

I'm from Austria and been happily following your blog for quite a while. It's been a long break for me, when you didn't post any recipes. The post on the ethiopian bread is so nicely written, that I could not stop myself - even though I'm lying sick in bed - from baking it immediately. Now my flat smells so comforting, that I can't stop "schnuppern".
Thank you for making reading your blog such a pleasure. all the best from Vienna, Natascha

[Chilli]

Goodness! I saw your post on this wonderful bread this week, when earlier I had just finished my own treatise on how I got around to bread baking and other cumulated thoughts on the subject. Now I have this compelling recipe from you for this bread. I can't wait for the weekend to try it!

[Luisa]

The Leftoverist - you're cute. No name - it's not as important as my big round flame Creuset, but then again that one's not named, either. Got any ideas?

J-Bird - lid off!

Natascha - so glad to hear it's making you feel better! Get well soon.

[Christina]

I have a five quart LC, would that work? I want to bake this SO MUCH!

[Luisa]

Christina - it sure will. Depending on the size of your pot, it will either be a little bit higher or a little bit lower.

[Isabelle]

This sounds delicious and totally inspires me to bake bread. I love things that make your house smell like Christmas too. And I love coriander! Perfect.

Also loved your Gourmet feature. Those cheap restaurants sound awesome! Where I live it's hard to find lunch for one for under 10 bucks.

[sonya]

This would be a nice bread to make for Rosh Hashanah - honey and spice.

[nita]

This recipe was my first foray - ever - into yeast bread. I make banana and zucchini bread all the time, but never keep yeast on hand. But this one was SO easy, and delicious! My boyfriend ate half a loaf (I swear) when he walked in the door from work, because everything smelled so good.

[The Leftoverist]

Back to the naming game, Luisa...I always like alliteration where non-animate objects are concerned...so maybe Drake the Dutch Oven? Or Lionel Le Crueset? I guess they're boys...

[jean]

I've been out for a bit, but just returned to find that you have your camera back. I'm very happy for you, but I actually did like your phone photos. They had a nostalgic feel to them. Sort of like looking back at ancient copies of "Red Book" recipes -- (think jello molded salads). However, I don't think your phone camera could have done your Ethiopian bread justic. It looks wonderful and can't wait to try it.

[Anne Marie]

After several deep sighs and perhaps a little swoon, I'll have to try this recipe. I agree that among all the other lovely sentiments you put forth so beautifully, September reminds us that home is where you bake your bread. Thanks for a wonderful post.

[Mary Swanson]

I'm going to make this my next bread for sure! Nothing makes my mouth water like homemade bread. You know what goes good with bread? Wine! I usually sit down after a long day's work with some homemade bread and a glass of wine. Check out http://pardonthatvine.com for a great guide! The guy knows his stuff!

Thanks again for the article - I'll let you know how the recipe turns out for me!

Mary

[kathleen]

Oh that bread looks and sounds delicious, and I can almost smell it from here! I'm definitely going to try it even though its spring here in New Zealand and we're looking forward to warmer longer days - thankfully bread doesn't go out of season :) Yum!

[ann]

What a strange and wonderful loaf! I love September with all my heart, and even more, I love September in NYC. It's the most perfect month. I need to bake some bread this weekend, and maybe make some soup too. Yay September!