Donna Deane's Pecan Brown-Butter Bread

Are you ever gripped with the urge to suddenly clean out your freezer, your cupboards, your crisping drawers? To use up those last nuts knocking around in an empty plastic bag, finally finish off that half-portion of arborio rice driving you batty since 2007, and at last get around to cooking the untouched box of chow mein noodles you'd completely forgotten about since it went and hid behind the Creole mustard, the organic millet and the half-eaten bar of dark chocolate in the bottom cupboard?

I'm on that kick right now and I've got it bad. I made Brandon's citrus-soy noodles the other night (and lo, they were delicious - more on that next time), deftly using up some old Chinese noodles and the last dregs of a jar of chile-garlic paste. I've had a stockpile of French sardines for host(ess) gifts cluttering the kitchen and I've been making good on giving them away. (Do you know a sardine lover? Buy them Connétable sardines the next time you're in Paris or if you were at Balducci's during its final days when they were practically giving away food. This is a good present, I promise.) I've thrown those final aforementioned rice grains in soups, am scheming for ways to get rid of some frozen pork neck bones from Connecticut, and cannot wait for a week's worth of morning blueberry-buttermilk smoothies, so I can finally throw out the darn Wyman's bag mocking me every time I open the freezer.

Luckily for you, the nicest thing about this weird mania is the recipe I made using up the last two cups of pecans I'd been hoarding for what was probably far too much time. It comes from Donna Deane when she was still at the LA Times, and is the loveliest, subtlest tea cake I've had in a while. Elegant and demure and delicious to boot, it features browned butter and toasted pecans suspended in a tender, sour cream-enriched cake.

I brought it to a Memorial Day picnic yesterday where it was eaten with gusto (at one point, two attendees were actually simply forking pieces of it out of the tin), praised by a chef, and then taken home by a friend who wanted to serve the leftovers as dessert at the end of a business meal last night. Great success! I'd say.

The most complicated thing about the recipe is making brown butter. And that's really not too hard. That is, cooking it isn't hard, it's knowing when to stop that's tricky. Kind of like caramel, only it moves faster. What you do is put a stick of butter in a small, heavy pan and set it over medium heat. When the butter melts, start whisking it and keep it over that same steady heat. Don't move away from the stove. After a few minutes, the molten butter will start to change color. It will foam and you might have a hard time seeing the liquid beneath. Just keep whisking. Pretty quickly thereafter, the butter will go from foamy and bright yellow to tan and then brown. You'll see little spots, which are the milk solids that have browned, and your kitchen will smell rather rich and toasty. Turn the heat off and try to get a good look at the butter. What you want is for it to be nicely browned and smelling delicious. You don't want blackened butter. And it's kind of a fine line between the two. So, if you feel like your browned butter is still cooking in that hot, heavy pot, even with the heat turned off, simply pour it into a heat-proof mixing bowl. That'll pretty much stop the cooking process.

The recipe has you chill that molten brown butter and then whip it with brown sugar until "light and fluffy". But that didn't happen at all for me. The brown butter and sugar just kept going around and around in the bowl, dark and granular. The minute I added the eggs, however, things got gorgeously light and fluffy. So keep that in mind when you make this. Oh, another thing: my compulsion to use things up apparently also means that I'm loathe to replace a thing when I'm done with it. Which would be fine if we were talking about something exotic, like black quinoa, but is sort of silly when it comes to a kitchen staple like vanilla extract. So, since I didn't have any vanilla extract in the house, I substituted almond extract and though I worried that mixing the nut flavors would be rather strange, I loved it. It's very subtle - there's only 1/2 teaspoon in the recipe.

What you end up with is this gorgeous, fluffy batter and a knobby pile of pecan-brown sugar streusel, which you basically layer in a loaf pan. The bread rises nicely in the oven, though it doesn't ever dome and crack. After it's been taken out and cooled and sliced up, what you have is a finely-crumbed cake shot through with nubby pecans and delicate brown-butter flavor. It really is rather refined, this loaf, and is the kind of thing you could easily serve to your future mother-in-law at your first tea together, or at a rowdy Brooklyn picnic with 11-month-olds doing their best to grab ahold of it while you shriek rather ineffectually that they should keep away from the tree nuts, for crying out loud.

Pecan Brown-Butter Bread
Makes 1 9-inch loaf

1/2 cup (1 stick) plus 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter, divided
2 cups shelled pecans, divided
2 cups flour plus 1 1/2 teaspoons, divided
1 1/3 cups packed brown sugar, divided
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon almond or vanilla extract
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup sour cream

1. Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Melt one-half cup butter in a heavy skillet over medium heat. After it melts, continue to cook, whisking until it turns nut brown, about 8 minutes. Remove the browned butter from the heat and cool, then refrigerate until it solidifies, about 30 to 40 minutes.

2. While the browned butter is chilling, put the pecans on a jellyroll pan in a single layer and toast them in the oven 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the nuts from the oven and cool in the pan, then roughly chop them so the pieces are no larger than one-fourth inch.

3. For the pecan streusel filling, combine one-half cup chopped toasted pecans, 1 1/2 teaspoons flour, and one-third cup brown sugar. Work the remaining 2 tablespoons butter into the sugar mixture until it is crumbly; do not over mix.

4. Cream together the chilled browned butter and the remaining 1 cup brown sugar until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then beat in the almond or vanilla extract.

5. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the brown butter mixture alternately with the sour cream, folding each addition in gently by hand. Stir in the remaining 1 1/2 cups chopped toasted pecans, just until ingredients are mixed.

6. Spoon half the batter into the bottom of a well-buttered 9-inch loaf pan. Sprinkle the streusel filling evenly over the batter. Spoon the remaining batter over the filling and spread evenly. Bake 55 to 60 minutes or until the bread tests done in the center; note that the streusel filling will remain moist throughout the baking process. Remove to a wire rack and let cool to warm. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Comments

[Jess]

Stunning photo up top. And thanks for the helpful step-by-step on browning butter. You're right that it's all about knowing when to stop. (Like so many things edible, I'm afraid...)

[Malina]

This recipe looks quite lovely. What do you think about adding dried cherries or chopped dried apricots? I happen to love a good nut/dried fruit combo. But I wonder if the cake would still be "elegant and demure" with chunks of dried fruit . . .

[codfish]

Browning butter well makes me feel so accomplished. I usually make my fiance watch during those periless last moments; to show off.

These look dreamy.

[Dana McCauley]

Fantastic looking loaf! My husband and son love a brown butter frosting that I made as part of Daring Bakers and I can imagine this would be a hit at my house, too.

I was struck by a similar urge recently that led to three posts about banana bread - needless to say, pantry raids are very inspiring to my readers!

http://danamccauley.wordpress.com/2008/11/13/danas-one-bowl-banana-bread-recipe

[Adrienne]

I literally JUST (5 minutes ago) scooped my very last scoop of sour cream into dill bread dough, as I'm trying to clean out my own cupboards before vacation. Now I wish I had read this first, because my boyfriend is a pecan fanatic, and this would thrill him to no end. Luckily those pecans in my freezer will keep till I get back! Thank you for the recipe :)

[lickedspoon]

Oooh, that looks good. The worst thing about making browned butter, caramel, meringues and the like is for those last, perilous moments it's so easy to forget to breathe I'm quite convinced that one day I'll end up nose-first, passed out in the bowl or pan.

I'm inspired by your cupboard-clearing frenzy. I don't want to end up like my aunt, who recently served us roast lamb with some delicious homemade redcurrant jelly. When I looked at the jar, she'd made it in 1985.

[bluejeangourmet]

mmmm, brown butter, which I recently discovered I love love love!

I am so with you on the pantry clean-out, too. a few years ago, my partner read an article about a college professor who taught a course about being frugal--the historical connotation of it, various writings, etc. the students had to adopt practices consistent with being frugal, like reusing, handmaking, etc.

so, inspired by that, we'll regularly go two weeks at a time without heading to the grocery store--eating from the freezer, pantry, making bread instead of buying. it's hard for me sometimes, because I get ingredient-focused, but the challenge is fun as are some of the things that end up being cooked!

[maggie]

Lovely. I've always gotten nervous and stopped browning the butter too soon...must not be scared!

[Jess]

I'm so glad to know someone else has half bags of grains from two years ago.
That loaf looks wonderful!

[jenny]

ahhh! PERFECT timing. because it's not pecans I'm trying to use up but SOUR CREAM. (why is it so hard to find small containers at my local grocery stores, I ask you?) anyway, this looks dreamy, and since it's supposed to be rainy and cold here in boston tomorrow (all the better for baking), I know how I'll be spending my time. my refrigerator (and my stomach) thank you.

[Eralda]

This looks so delicious. Thanks for the browning butter tips.

[anna]

That sounds incredible! I might, in fact, have to use up some sour cream. I'll have to buy the pecans, though.

[Jennifer]

I love that you didn't let missing an ingredient stop you. It's how new recipes and creative juices get flowing in the kitchen.

[Katie]

What a wonderful sounding recipe! I almost literally jumped out of my chair to make it. It still has another half hour to go, and I'm looking forward to it for breakfast!

[Drew]

I have everything on the ingredients list (well, my butter is salted, but I don't get the unsalted thing, so it's okay), so I am thinking of filling my afternoon with baking this. Just too bad it doesn't require anything from my freezer which I am desperately working on emptying (cranberries from three years ago anyone?)

[Barbara]

I'm going to make it this morning and it will probably be gone by this evening!

[Rose-Anne]

You're much better than I am about using up bits and bobs in your kitchen. I am, unfortunately, prone to letting things spoil before they can be used. Sigh. But this tea cake sounds gorgeous, and I wish I'd been invited to your picnic! ;-)

[James Carmel]

If you're looking for something to do with your sardines, this is a great recipe -- so simple, so fresh, I've been making it non-stop:

http://burningpasta.blogspot.com/2009/05/condiment-deconstructed-pan-seared_23.html

[Dawn in CA]

Send those sardines my way, I love them. Strange, I know. The bread looks yummy, too.

[Sylvie]

Lovely photos and it definitely doesn't look like a clearing-out-the-cupboards kind of loaf.

[unconfidentialcook.com]

Lovely loaf...and brown butter seems to be in the air everywhere. Did you read Jeffrey Steingarten's article about it in this month's Vogue?

[foodcreate]

Your bread looks delicious:)
I going to buy some pecans try out this tasteful recipe.
Thanks for sharing!

and you can visit me if i can visit you:)
Welcome!
foodcreate

[Nadia]

Thanks for the excellent tips on browning butter, even if the recipe had me on "pecan brown-butter". Just wanted to say that 1/2 teaspoon of almond essence is usually plenty for most recipes. It's considerably more potent than vanilla essence and has a tendency to take over and rather synthetically. I sometimes opt for 1/4 teaspoon (especially now that I have a beautiful set of metal measuring spoons).

[Josh, Great Chefs]

Thanks for the recipe! I almost let the browning of the butter go too far. I heated it too quickly.

But it turned out well enough. Always room for me to improve. ;)

[Sara]

Brown butter and pecans-what more could you ask for?

[The Leftoverist]

I love this post. I get on the "clean-everything-out-don't-waste-a-single-nut" kick quite a lot, and am laughing about the tree nut joke. God bless all those neurotic mothers. If my kids were allergic to nuts, maybe I'd be more sympathetic.

[laura]

My pantry-cleaning urges are at an all time high. There are so many half-used bags of nuts, dried fruit, abandoned cans of beans, sardines & who knows what else. You inspired me to root around a bit more to see what surfaces!

[Bobbie]

Thanks! I am fairly obsessed with brown butter these days. i love it in brown sugar cookies! Cant wait to put itin this loaf!

[lola]

looks great, thanks for the recipe! i am definitely a fan of recipes that clean up the pantry/use up leftovers.

[Kathleen]

I think browning butter is nothing short of culinary magic- soooooooo satisfying. Have you tried the spoon cookies from Gourmet? They really are amazing, and, as an added bonus, the perfect way to use up the half jars of preserves that are cluttering up your fridge!
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Spoon-Cookies-233297

[Green]

Hello Wednesday Chef,

It's great to see you post again. The butter bread is one of my favorite recipe. Thank you so much for posting this.

I shall say see you later then.

Thanks again.

-Green
www.ahacook.com

[http://greentahina.blogspot.com/]

Know what you mean....

But, I clean out the kitchen every week......

I am trying this fresh only food diet.......

[lululu]

yes, i'm such a "pantry cleaner" when the time comes! nuts and grains are my focus all the time!
your bread looks really delicious!

[jen boda]

This looks like a wonderful recipe, as all of yours tend to be. Thanks for the great content and beautiful pictures. I really love coming here.

jen
http://www.bodaweightloss.com/blog

[lisa (dandysugar)]

Browned butter is delicious in baked goods..this bread looks fantastic, must be so moist with the sour cream. It's definitely a perfect kitchen cupboard cleaning recipe, which I do often!

[Jackie @ PhamFatale.com]

I think brown butter can bring another dimension to a dish. It has that nutty flavor that is to die for. Thanks for the wonderful tips

[Shauna]

Nom, nom, nom...sounds amazing! Brown butter anything=okay by me. But I have to chime in about the pork neck bones--they are heaven in a big pot of red sauce over a hge bowl of mostaciolli. Great memories of this growing up--it's delicious!

[alexandria]

My week is brighter because of your blog posts. Thank you for doing what you do! :)

[Annie]

This was wonderful -- a coworker actually said "exquisite". Thank you for the recipe and writing!

[Anali]

This looks wonderful! I'm going to have to give it a go! ; )

[Laura S.]

I happened to be reading this when I am also in a clean-the-cupboards-out-kick!!! But I don't have pecans, so I'm using pistachios....wish me luck!