Rose Bakery's Potatoes Gribiche

A secret: for nigh on 4 weeks now, I've had a plastic bag full of potatoes sitting on my butcher block counter. They've been sprouting strangely pretty purple and green nubbins, which I rub off each time I pass them. Their skins have grown wrinkly and I've felt worse and worse every time I enter the kitchen, seeing the potatoes in their dusty bag reproach me silently for not ending their misery and cooking them.

The thing is, I've not really been in the mood for wintery mashed potatoes or herbed roasted ones. Those are for the real winter, when all you want to do is wear wool socks and watch the snow fall and listen to old jazz from the 40's on the radio. Today I want sourness and spice and sharp, bright flavors, a little heat to wake up my taste buds, gustatory jolts to shake off the remaining winter doldrums.

Now think about this: a little pile of minced shallots, a tiny mountain of diced cornichons, a palmful of salted capers, soaked and squeezed, a spoonful of sharp mustard, a few glugs of vinegar, and smoked paprika, glowing red. All of these things, plus some nice olive oil, mixed together, then used to dress that whole bag of potatoes, roasted. Can you imagine that? Is the water running together in your mouth now? You're welcome.

Actually, thank Bread Baby and Clotilde, for drawing my attention to Rose Bakery's way of getting rid of excess potatoes (though they probably don't use that exact - er - phrasing). The dressing is sort of a deconstructed sauce gribiche, a classic mayonnaise-based sauce, though it's lighter, of course, and instead of being used to dress a calf's head, you use it to dress a pile of salt-and-pepper-flecked roasted potatoes.

The salad tastes really, really good and it's simply such a relief after the relentless march of cold weather potato dishes. I, for one, can't stand them any more. The capers and pickles and mustard provide nice little zings and pops of flavor, the shallots give the salad a faint bite, the chopped eggs add creaminess and ballast, and the smoked paprika is just its usual mysterious and alluring self. Seriously, smoked paprika is like the Penelope Cruz of the spice world.

Clotilde didn't much like this salad the next day, but I had so many leftovers that I didn't have a choice but to refrigerate them and turn them into lunch the next day. I think the salad stands up just fine - all it needs is to be brought to room temperature and tossed with a fresh glug of good olive oil, which helps to brighten the flavors that have actually melded quite nicely overnight.

But a cook's work is never done, is it. Though my CSA's winter share is over (praise be), I still have about three more pounds of potatoes to fight through. I figure I've got at least another week of ignoring this batch before they start to sprout...

Potatoes Gribiche
Serves 4

1 1/2 pounds small waxy potatoes
Olive oil
Salt, pepper
2 hard-boiled eggs, diced
5 to 6 cornichons, diced
2 tablespoons capers (if using salted capers, soak for a few minutes in water first)
1 shallot, peeled and minced
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika
A handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan, cover with cold water, cover with a lid, and bring to a boil. Drain immediately, let cool for a minute, cut in two-bite wedges, and transfer to a baking dish large enough to accommodate them in a single layer. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, toss to coat, and roast until golden and crusty, about 30 minutes.

2. In the meantime, combine in a salad bowl the eggs, cornichons, capers, shallot, mustard, vinegar, paprika, a bit of salt and pepper, and 2 and 1/2 tablespoons olive oil.

3. When the potatoes are ready, add them to the salad bowl, toss gently to coat, and fold in the parsley. Taste for seasoning. Let cool to slightly warm or at room temperature.

Comments

[Liz]

This looks delicious and I'll definitely make it soon, since I'm working through my own bag of potatoes at the moment... I recently spotted this recipe on Pink of Perfection's blog, which may help with the overload of potatoes: http://www.pinkofperfection.com/2009/03/breaking-out-of-a-rut/#more-2147.

[jenny]

omg, WHY did I read this just before going to bed?? now I have a huge craving. this sounds delicious. (btw, that's three recipes in a row that have ended up on my "must-make" list. I love culinary synergy.)

[maggie (p&c)]

Well, this looks like a great way of using up potatoes! Perhaps if you can't face the next bag you could use them to bake some kind of bread? I think I saw potato-dough cinnamon rolls somewhere.

[Lexi]

Smoked paprika = penelope cruz of the spice world = brilliant.

This looks so yummy!

[Culinarywannabe]

What a unique potato salad! I agree, we are in that in-between stage, where it isn't blistering outside anymore, but there is still a bit of a chill. I'm done with the heavy stuff and ready for a lightened fare, but it really just isn't that warm out yet.

[Mama JJ]

Yes, you could use the leftover potatoes to make Edna Byler's potato dough (the best for raised donuts and sweetrolls, in my humble opinion), but that only uses a couple cups of mashed potatoes---you'd still have potatoes left over.

Another idea is to roast them (roasting is always a good way to start, don't you think?) along with a head of garlic and then make a dressing with the mushy garlic, olive oil, Dijon mustard, red wine vinegar, salt, and pepper... There will be no leftovers.

[Jessie]

You had me a bit worried when you were describing your potatoes turning green. The green is chlorphyll but it's "warning" you that the potato is actually forming a toxin called solanine in higher concentration.

Regardless, the recipe sounds amazing and now I can't wait to try it. Thanks for sharing!

[Adrienne]

"Seriously, smoked paprika is like the Penelope Cruz of the spice world."

You crack me up. And I am indeed salivating. Potatoes + pickles + mustard = heaven, in my opinion.

[Luisa]

Jessie - no, no, the potatoes didn't turn green. They were sprouting and the sprouts were green and purple.

[Marie]

Oh my. I just decided what I'm going to eat tonight with the Serbian sausage from the farmer's market. I am having major salivation problems at the moment.

[Lisa]

Mmm...sausage would be great with this. Luisa, what else would you serve this with?

[Luisa]

Lisa - I ate it all by itself for lunch... :) But if you wanted a better-rounded meal, served alongside a nice piece of roasted chicken wouldn't be bad. Otherwise, I'd make it part of a vegetarian meal along with some braised broccoli, a boiled beet salad, etc...

[Julia]

I'll try this soon, a nice new twist on roasted potatoes. Thanks for sharing.

[E.J.]

Nice save on the solanine, Jessie. It's highly unlikely to produce life-threatening illness, but you never know how far some people will go not to have the throw out food. Get rid of all the sprouts and be sure no one, not even pets get them, and don't eat green parts of potatoes. They will make you sick.

[Gadia]

dearest luisa,

I've been reading you for a few months and I just wanted to thank you for your truly deeply lovely writing and for your honesty and for the wonderful recipes, tried and tested by you, that literally save me after a long day when I can't think of a thing to make by giving me lots of mouth-watering ideas that are simple, workable and incredibly tasty and which feed my hungry little family night after night. Thank you

[Pete]

Looks great.

I quite like using up those inevitable old potatoes by putting them in a roasting tin with a bit of rosemary and then baking a couple of whole fish on the bars of the oven straight above them. The fish (and whatever you've stuffed it with, lemon and dill?) drips down onto the potatoes and makes them deeply savoury and very tasty.

Nothing flash but it's quick and tasty :)

[Aude]

I have the Rose Bakery book and made this salad a few months ago. I have to say that while it is true it can be brought back to the life the next day, the salad is about a million times better eaten while the potatoes are still warm.

[Mouse from A Mouse Bouche]

The combination of shallots, cornichons, capers, and mustard is so heavenly. I can't wait to try this. Seriously, three recipes in a row I can't wait to make! I like your stats :)

[Luisa]

Gadia - you are so sweet, thank you so much. It is just lovely to hear that.

Pete - nice idea! I'll have to try that soon. Without the dill...shudder :)

[Carole Rains]

I've recently started using a program called Evernote to clip recipes, books to read, etc. and it is quickly filling up with recipes from your blog. Love your unique way of talking about food.

[jess toal]

From the moment I read this I had it open in a tab and I kept going back to it over and over. I just made the mustard-crusted potatoes from bon apetit last week and they were so good that I can't stop thinking of tart-vinegary potatoes. I found an excuse to make this last night with minor variation-- I had no cornichons, very sad, and I chose to top it with fried eggs rather than hard boil the eggs and incorporate. It was awesome-- perfect late dinner.

[Takeaways]

Nice of you to give your potatoes the dish they deserve! They can be so forgiving... stay good for weeks!

[Dawn]

For some light, bright potato goodness, I like skillet roasted potatoes with lemon zest and fresh chives. It's like eating little bites of sunshine.
Thanks for the great blog!

[jgirl]

Potato Leek soup - mmm...be great with a fat slice from your lovely loaf toasted. I also love warm German potato salad.

[Rose-Anne]

It's been said before, but I'll say it again: your line about smoked paprika is brilliant! Love it!

Luisa, I have to say that your photos lately have been especially beautiful. I have no idea if you are doing anything differently, but they are so enticing! I'm fighting the urge to hightail it to my kitchen right now--I want my own batch of roasted and gussied-up potatoes!

[Ulla]

That looks fantastic! I love sage and bacon potatoes but this seems just as great!:)

[Kristine in Santa Barbara]

I made the potato salad afternoon and it really is tasty. However, next time I'm going to cube and boil the potatoes, as in making other warm potato salads. I don't think the texture of the roasted potato is what is making the dish special, but rather the dressing. The dressing and egg would make any warm potato taste great. Would save time and dishes too.

Thanks for the wonderful post. Kristine

[Kate]

As noted above, these don't make great leftovers, but the salad is great when it's warm. I'm sorry I hadn't heard of gribiche before now, because it's really good!

[Laura]

Ha! I also have loads of potatoes sitting in my fridge that I just can't bring myself to eat. What perfect timing...I know what I'll be doing (and eating) this weekend!

[Yxta Maya Murray]

Dear Ms. Weiss & all amazing food people!
First, I just love this recipe and this blog! It is such a gift to word and food lovers everywhere, thank you Ms. Weiss!
Also, since the WC takes its inspiration from the nyt and lat food sections, please let me recommend amyscattergood.com -- an amazing blog of poetry, food, and photography, written by the former lat food bard!
thanks!

[carrie]

you simply can't go wrong with potatoes! Those look wonderful!!

[justcooknyc]

those potatoes look so yummy

[Kate]

This hit such a perfect spot for March that I planned an entire meal around this dish. It looks lovely -- thank you!

[unconfidentialcook.com]

I am all for roasting every vegetable (over boiling, steaming, sauteeing). This looks wonderful, and I bet the "dressing" would be v. good on cauliflower and other roasted vegetables.

[Erin]

I agree it's about time to switch from roasted potatoes to potato salad, than goodness! If NY is anything like Chicago, it's just barely hinting at spring, but that's enough to make everyone act like it's summer! We've survived another winter :)

Last summer I made a grilled potato salad recipe with similar ingredients to this one. I'm eager to try it again as soon as it gets a bit warmer.

[stephen]

I like the addition of the eggs, capers and cornichon. I made some pots this morning with pimeton and a separate ragout of peppers, onions, fennel,garlic, Spanish banana peppers, canned tomatoes and peas. served with soft scrambled eggs and grilled baguette.
love your approach to food.

[jenny]

this. was. incredible. thank you. the end.

[Emily]

Made this for dinner last night, and it was PHENOMENAL! Thanks so much, Luisa, for giving me a quick dinner after a long day of walking and train travel. My changes were to use a quick fried egg instead of hard-boiled, which was nice, as the yolk enveloped the potatoes quite nicely. Oh, and I threw in a few caramelized onions I had lying about for a touch of sweetness.
All in all, it was lovely, and one that I will be making ALL the time, I'm sure.

[Karen]

I just made this, last night. My husband, who considers any variation on potato salad other than the standard Miracle Whip, egg, green onion, salt and pepper melange, absolute heresy. Last night, however, everything changed. I am going to make this again, and I'm definitely taking it to the next potluck I go to. Thanks for sharing it.

[frontierblog]

I cannot agree more, actually I wrote a similar post weeks ago

Edward

Frontier Blog - No one ahead, no one behind
http://www.hwswworld.com/wp

[chelsea]

This was the very first recipe I blogged. Love, love, LOVE the Rose Bakery cookbook!

Next time I'm trying the smoked paprika.

[Carole]

Made this recipe last night. Soooo good. Used russet potatoes and skipped the parboiling, cooked up crisp enough that they held their shape just fine.

[kellypea]

I cannot wait to try this. And shamefacedly, I'd never heard of the Rose Bakery cookbook, so what a perfect excuse to get it.

[Jenna]

Yes, potato bread was my first thought on using old wrinkly taters. Also, why not start some lovely vines to decorate and healthify your environment? Them taters just want to LIVE!

[Gourmet Mama]

Potatoes rarely last more than a day around here, they`re one of my boys` favorite foods. Definitely going to be trying this recipe!

[Angela]

This dish has so much going for it. The mustard, caper, shallot flavor combo is a brilliant way to brighten up -- and use up -- an aging sack of potatoes. Nicely done!

[Claudia Haas]

This is the perfect antidote to the "buy one get one free" sack of ptatoes I am prone to. And then never need the second sack!

[Mixing Bowl Mama]

This looks really delicious...and I love potatoes!

[ellise]

I love everything from Rose Bakery -- especially the Sticky Toffee Pudding! -- but I've yet to try these taters. Thanks for the recipe -- I can't wait to make these.

[Tracy A.]

Rustic, lively and thoroughly satisfying. Addicting, actually. Leftovers aren't possible. Served it with just-picked arugula salad (with preserved lemon & shaved reggiano). Another keeper -- thank you!!