I had a cavity filled today and, let me tell you, sporting a Novocaine-numbed mouth is no way to go about writing a blog post. Contemplating food when you can't feel your lower lip or cheek or gums for that matter, is rather frightening. The lack of control over your own muscles, so blithely taken for granted before, is just...well, I don't like it. Who does?
So let me keep this brief. A few weeks ago, the most charming newsletter that I get (I get many and they are mostly a bother) zipped a lovely little missive into my inbox: Jim Lahey's (the bread wizard and proprietor of Co, which I plan to visit later this month) famous no-knead bread recipe rejiggered as pizza dough!
And, lo, an obsession was born. I spent the next 10 days trying to find the right night to start the dough. Because even though the active work time for no-knead dough - as you all probably know - is but a few minutes, you kind of need to plan when you're actually going to bake and eat the bread, right? Finally - finally! - this weekend presented itself. I had time on Saturday afternoon to start the dough and with pizza on Sunday night to look forward to, we would even have something to ward off those inevitable Sunday night blues. Perfect.
The simple mixture of instant yeast, flour, salt and water proofed for 24 hours, until it rose and bubbled and smelled yeasty and sour and wonderful. I dumped it out onto a floured surface, folded it over onto itself a few times and let it rest a few hours longer.
Then that mound of dough was divided into four equal pieces and that's sort of where everything fell apart. I suppose I shouldn't be so dramatic. I mean, we ended up with pizza after all, but that's where the ease of the recipe stopped short. Because, just as Jim warned in the newsletter, making the dough may be a cinch, but working with it, forming it is Difficult with a Capital D.
In fact, I think I failed miserably. 12-inch pizza rounds? More like 9-inch slipper-shaped oblongs. Pizza naan, if you will. The dough was sticky and floppy and entirely unmanageable. I tried rolling it with a pin, I tried stretching it with my hands, I tried letting it rest and going back to it 15 minutes later, and still, all I ended up with were these rather thickish, oddly shaped pizzas.
Of course it doesn't really matter what they looked like, as long as they tasted good. But I quite like a thin crust pizza and try as I might, our pizzas ended up with thickish crusts. The crust was delicious, but it was too bready for my taste. Plus, I'll be honest, wrangling with my dinner to the point that it makes me break out in a sweat is a surefire way to help me lose my appetite.
What a primadonna, right? I totally admit it. You might love this pizza dough! Especially if you like a challenge. Me, I'm going to revel in the fact that I live in New York and can visit Jim's pizza place any time I like and have him make me a pizza. Mmm, doesn't that sound nice?
No-Knead Pizza
Makes 4 individual pizzas
3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, more for dusting
¼ teaspoon instant yeast (such as SAF brand)
1½ teaspoons salt
1½ cups water
1. In a large bowl, mix the flour with the yeast and salt. Add the water and stir until blended (the dough will be very sticky). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rest for 12 to 24 hours in a warm spot, about 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface and lightly sprinkle the top with flour. Fold the dough over on itself once or twice, cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest for 15 minutes.
3. Divide the dough into 4 pieces and shape each piece into a ball. Generously sprinkle a clean cotton towel with flour and cover the dough balls with it. Let the dough rise for 2 hours.
4. Stretch or toss the dough into the desired shape, cover with toppings and bake on top of a very hot pizza stone.


Do you have a recipe for a thin crust that you like? I, too, LOVE thin crust, but never have had much success in making it. I don't enjoy the doughy, thick crusts, though my children do!
Posted by: rebekahjonz | February 09, 2009 at 10:43 PM
Oh dear. All the no-knead doughs are super sticky and difficult to work with, but I've been using "Artisan Bread in 5 Minutes a Day" (sort of a dumb title but a great bread book) and I'm finally starting to get used to wet dough. I think if you keep at it you'll figure out the best way to stretch it - I use gravity, mostly, just holding it up on my knuckles and letting it sag. I'm sorry your dinner was disappointing, but I hope the feeling is back in your mouth now!
Posted by: Adrienne | February 09, 2009 at 10:46 PM
The last time I made from-scratch pizza dough (and pizza sauce) was around Christmas time, using Martha Stewart's Baking Handbook and my handy-dandy KitchenAid stand mixer. It made for a delicious thin crust pizza! ^_^
Posted by: Doris | February 09, 2009 at 10:53 PM
OH, thank god it's not just me. I too spent last week attempting this pizza dough...and was shocked at how difficult it was to work with! thank you for sharing!
Posted by: christophile | February 09, 2009 at 11:39 PM
Sorry that the recipe made you break out in a sweat, Luisa -- but thanks for saying that you like your daily Tasting Table email. Please keep telling your readers about us so that they come over to TastingTable.com to get their own subscriptions!
(Glad the pizza at least tasted good, for all your effort!).
Best,
Geoff
CEO, Tasting Table
Posted by: Geoff | February 10, 2009 at 12:47 AM
Of all the food blogs out there, yours is tops. I always keep coming back to see what is inspiring you. I inherited both NYT recipe clippings and the habit from my mother.
The only pizza dough is Peter Reinhart's: http://recipes.egullet.org/recipes/r1230.html
the version with the egg is my favorite. enjoy.
your fan in seattle for over many years
Posted by: pam | February 10, 2009 at 01:14 AM
Good to know! I bought the book on no-knead bread, and now I know not to start with the pizza dough.
Although pizza naan looks delicious to me!
Posted by: Foodess | February 10, 2009 at 01:15 AM
I actually took a cooking class at the ICE this past weekend and we made all kinds of pizzas. Even with the help of their chef I couldn't get the stupid dough rolled out into anything that resembled a pizza - so I don't think I will be trying this one! :)
Posted by: Culinarywannabe | February 10, 2009 at 07:13 AM
I've actually had pretty good luck with the recipe. I've left it in the refrigerator to rise for about 36 hours and it was a wet dough, but it was pretty springy. I can't get very big pie out if it, but have had realatively good luck with keeping it thin (except for one time when I worked it too much). I even wrapped a couple of the balls in plastic and left them in my fridge for a week. This week-old dough was very easy to work with, very thin, and had a great taste.
Sorry for your luck.
Posted by: Tony | February 10, 2009 at 07:41 AM
i really like this pizza dough for thinner crusts. it's super easy and tasty, and it's my go-to recipe: http://smittenkitchen.com/2007/01/pizza-and-the-limits-of-diy/
(while i do like the no-knead bread, it is TOUGH to work with - this sounds similarly frustrating...)
Posted by: BF | February 10, 2009 at 07:52 AM
So I tried this recipe as well but I cut it in half. I looked at the dough after 20 or so hours and decided to put it in to a six inch cast iron skillet and bake it like a bread. Small loaf, not as high a rise, deelish! I buy my pizza dough but bake this bread!
Posted by: Nancy | February 10, 2009 at 08:21 AM
Oh, I wanted you to tell us it was easy, that we shouldn't be intimidated.
I'm up for a visit to Co. anytime.
Posted by: maggie (p&c) | February 10, 2009 at 09:47 AM
You are not alone, I too am pizza dough challenged. They make it look so easy, but as you very weel know looks can be deceiving.......
Posted by: Teryll | February 10, 2009 at 09:51 AM
Looks delicious nonetheless and now I am starving!
Posted by: Blushing Hostess | February 10, 2009 at 11:46 AM
I think Peter Reinhart's recipe (on the 101 Cookbooks site) is definitely the way to go. After trying it, I'm never looking back.
Posted by: Tricia | February 10, 2009 at 12:13 PM
I made pizza with the 5 minute bread, but I used fresh dough, only leting it rise a couple hours, if that. It made a spectacular crust, thin and crispy. My dough was so wet (never, even after a few days in the fridge, got that sour smell you talk about) that I just kind of flopped it down on the pan. Holes tore everywhere, but I just tore off pieces of dough where the crust was the thickest and patted them into the holes---because the dough was so wet, the pieces easily melded together. But, all in all, that recipe is not my favorite. Tonight I'm trying pizzas using my sourdough starter---making a rustic bread and piling on the toppings. Can't wait!
-JJ
Posted by: Mama JJ | February 10, 2009 at 12:14 PM
call it Afghan snowshoe bread and enjoy the wonky shape.
Posted by: lobstersquad | February 10, 2009 at 12:15 PM
Cook's Illustrated has a thin-crust pizza recipe that works well. As I recall, you roll between two sheets of plastic wrap.
Posted by: Seattle Cook | February 10, 2009 at 01:00 PM
Not that you don't already have plenty of other pizza dough recipes up your sleve, but I've got to second the above recommendation for Deb's simple pizza dough -- or even better, the version with a touch of honey and wine. http://smittenkitchen.com/2007/09/pizza-even-sweeter/
With just a little rest it is so very easy to work with and if you'd like you can roll it so so thin.
Posted by: Annie | February 10, 2009 at 03:19 PM
I love Deb's recipe that Brian linked to (the simple one without honey and wine) and use it often. In fact, it's what I'm wrangling in my photo at the top left!
Posted by: Luisa | February 10, 2009 at 04:51 PM
The best thing about Co. is the worst thing about Co. - it's very dangerous proximity to my apartment. Mere 3 blocks. It's lovely, but closed on Sundays and Mondays. I am sure you will like it. Sorry about the cavity - hope you're feeling better.
Posted by: radish | February 10, 2009 at 05:02 PM
I actually think pizza's are very pretty... we'll call it artisinal... when wonkily shaped! However, I must agree, the thinner the better.
Posted by: Jesse | February 10, 2009 at 09:45 PM
I made the dough yesterday afternoon and will be getting it ready at about 3 this afternoon. I absolutely love slow food cooking. Thanks for keeping it real!
Posted by: Jillian | February 11, 2009 at 10:15 AM
Too bad it wasn't a little easier to work with.
The no knead bread is so easy because you don't have to work with it much.
Posted by: sara | February 11, 2009 at 11:26 AM
I made this pizza recipe last night and thought it was super. Very thin (and it stayed thin)and crispy and stiff pizza. (I used only 1 1/4 cups water).
Needed lots of flour when pressing it out and corn meal on the peel for the ball-barings to get it onto the stone. (I used a stone in a heated 550 oven). Next time I'd put in a tbs. of olive oil to make it easier to work with.
I've been trying for the holy grail of pizza crusts for years and this was as good as I've gotten, with a lot less effort than the rest.
Oh, well.
Posted by: stuart niemtzow | February 11, 2009 at 12:38 PM
I really like that picture of the yeast/water/etc mixture in the stripy bowl.
do you have any good thin pizza crust recipes?
Posted by: Hannah | February 11, 2009 at 05:33 PM
I haven't tried this pizza dough yet, but I've been reading so much about it and had high hopes. I do like thick crust, so maybe for me it wouldn't be a total bust. But, like you, I'd rather go to Jim's place and have him make it for me.
Posted by: Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) | February 11, 2009 at 08:48 PM
Hannah - I have had good luck with this one (using a pizza stone and the oven on broiler mode): http://smittenkitchen.com/2007/01/pizza-and-the-limits-of-diy/
Posted by: Luisa | February 11, 2009 at 08:49 PM
I don't get it...Sure, I mean - I get no-knead bread. But regular old pizza dough is a doddle. It doesn't take all that much kneading, and is easy. While you are letting the dough rise you prep the toppings and then form & bake, Easy. Why re-invent the wheel?
My pizza dough has some olive oil in it, stretches easily and well, and makes yummy pizza. I use the recipe from Field of Greens, but I've used others and they all pretty much work well.
I would say this guy's dream of an empire of "no-knead" products may be a bit premature.
Posted by: Diane | February 11, 2009 at 10:07 PM
Too funny--the first thing I thought when I saw your post was "Oh yummy, a thick crust!" :) Can you tell I am a midwest gal who likes her Chicago style pan pizza?
Posted by: Laura | February 12, 2009 at 04:35 PM
I love the No Knead bread recipe, and it's the only dough I'll use for homemade pizza. People are consistently impressed by it, too! I'm picky about my pizza, yet I love this dough.
If you like a thin crust, try scaling the recipe back -- use just 2 cups of flour instead of 3 and scale everything accordingly (I usually just use the same amount of yeast, though). It makes the same size pizza, but with a thinner crust and chewy edges.
Also, try using 1.5 cups of water instead of the 1 5/8 from the original version of the NY Times recipe.
And, another hint (can you tell I've made this a lot?): You can make the dough just as the recipe says, throw it in a covered bowl, and leave it in the refrigerator for a few days. You probably won't be able to use it within 24 hours, because the cold will slow down the yeast action (at least in theory -- I haven't tested this). However, if you want to make the pizza at an indefinite time two or four days from the day you make it, refrigerating it is the way to go.
If you can't roll or stretch the dough by hand, just throw it on a parchment-covered pan and use the back of a spoon to spread it out. Let it rest a few minutes if it's not cooperating.
I say keep trying. I've found it to be worth it!
Posted by: sp | February 12, 2009 at 11:01 PM
I think this dough turned out GREAT! I didn't even try to make it thin, just put it into a large pan coated with cornmeal and made it like pan pizza. We all could not believe how good it turned out. I will be making this many more times.
Posted by: Kristi | February 14, 2009 at 05:37 PM
Hmm. My mother has a no-knead crust that I tried. I thought it came out pretty well but it is a very thin crust. And you have to prepare it the day before which is sometimes a bit too much planning for me.
Posted by: eg | February 15, 2009 at 06:53 PM
Love this. I love the no-knead bread and just make crackers from regualar pizza dough last week and think I will try this when I run out of crackers in a about a week! Thanks!
Posted by: Jen | February 15, 2009 at 11:38 PM
This is why i just don't try to make pizza at home. My last attempt involved a charcoal grill and lots of cursing, crying and burnt crust. To my mind, pizza-making is like dry-cleaning, plumbing and dentistry - best left to the professionals.
Posted by: ellen | February 16, 2009 at 02:23 PM
Thanks for the tip on Tasting Table. I'm now signed up! (By the by, I recently had luck with the Martha Stewart Everyday Food Whole Wheat Pizza Dough)
Posted by: Sarah | February 17, 2009 at 04:46 PM
Oh no! i've been wanting to try this recipe but the timing required has thrown me for a loop. I too like thin crust and will probably avoid the pizza naan :)
Posted by: Tonya @ What's On My Plate | February 18, 2009 at 12:20 AM
Good to know I'm not the only one who has these issues! I usually end up wrestling with the dough for a while, then giving in and making pizza dough breadsticks.
Posted by: RenaissanceTrophyWife | February 18, 2009 at 04:35 PM
So glad I stopped by. I am making this pizza! Thank you.
Posted by: Melody Elliott | February 20, 2009 at 04:51 PM
I read about the no-knead pizza over at Bitten and have been thinking about it for weeks. I would probably have the same trouble as you though and so I think I'll stick to making Rosemary's Pizza from Julia Child's The Way to Cook, as I have done for years: http://www.bigoven.com/45638-Rosemarys-Classic-Pizza-Dough-recipe.html . It rolls out beautifully.
Posted by: Chris at Lost Arts Kitchen | February 23, 2009 at 01:22 AM
I tried it and had pretty good success getting it thin. I shaped on a Silpat, which I think helps w/any sticky dough; floured the board; and allowed the dough to rest from time to time. So first you cut into the desired portions and pat into circles, then let it rest for a few minutes while you do the same to others, then go back to your first one. That little bit of rest seems to make the dough more willing to stretch without immediately springing back.
Posted by: Seattle Cook | February 23, 2009 at 03:53 PM
I'm wondering if I can make this dough ahead of time (even with the long proofing time)? Like, can I proof, then shape, then transfer to the fridge for a day or two before I turn it into pizzas? Has anyone tried that?
P.S. Really like your blog.That sandwich in the photo looks amazingly good.
Posted by: Bunny Cucina | March 04, 2009 at 01:44 PM
P.S. I did end up making the dough and it turned out great. I was able to stretch (and even toss--for the first time ever) it without it tearing, because it was so wonderfully elastic. Thanks Seattle Cook for that tip about letting it rest.
I read that you can keep it in the fridge for up to two weeks (I hope that's right) and just pull out what you need and let it sit out for a couple hours before stretching. We'll see how that works.
Posted by: Lucy T. | March 08, 2009 at 11:28 PM
beautiful site, beautiful photos
Posted by: louise | March 09, 2009 at 12:49 PM
i modified the no knead recipe a little bit. Proceed with the recipe till u get to the folding over and resting for 15minutes part. U dont need to let it rest. transfer back into the bowl Then add one tablespoon cornstarch, half a cup olive oil and approx one more cup of flour. Add the flour a little at a time and lKnead till it it smooth and elastic. 5 - 10 minutes. Separate into four balls, place on oiled traay and cover each ball with a bit of olive oil. Let rise till it doubles 30 min in warm room or weather 1hour in a cool room.
this works for thin crust and is less ' bready'
roll out and use as you will a pizza base. I tend to cook mine first for abut 15 minutes as i have a tiny oven and no pizza stone.
Posted by: premi | March 22, 2009 at 10:45 PM
I found that the easy way to deal with the gooey dough is to lightly oil a shallow baking pan and dump the dough in the middle. Then I oil my hands and squash the dough gently close to the edges of the pan as possible, then I let it rest for 10 minutes and I squish it out to the edges. I let it rise on top of the oven while it preheats to 425 for about 20 minutes. Finally I bake it for about 4-6 minutes and then take it out to put the toppings on and then pop it back in the oven for about 15 minutes.
Posted by: macrumpton | April 21, 2009 at 06:37 PM
If you like Jim Lahey's pizza dough recipe, you should check out Nancy Baggett's kneadlessly simple bread book. She has a pizza dough recipe too. I haven't tried that specific recipe, but the others that I have tried turned out great! Here's her website, I know she has a recipe archives so you might find something else to try. www.kitchenlane.com
Posted by: Erica | May 26, 2009 at 04:04 PM
Hi. I too love a chewy, thin pizza dough. Just when I had all but given up on getting that at home, I came across this great recipe on King Arthur's flour website. Check out their Brick Oven Pizza. Their secret is a poolish, or starter, or sponge that you start the day before.
It's all I have wanted in a dough. Chewy, crispy and best of all, very thin. I can make two 16" diameter crusts with it.
I generously flour and start to roll it out. Then, I toss with the back of my hands. As I toss, I gently pull the dough to stretch it. Once it's close to the size I want, I place on my perforated pizza pans and then do a final stretch to let the dough hang over the edge so that when I place back into the pan, it will stay there.
I also then bake the bare dough for 8 minutes and rotate so that there aren't any brown spots on it.
Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Posted by: avigil | January 29, 2010 at 10:17 AM
Just a note but Jim Lahey's pizza dough does not use the bread method. His pizza dough is a two hour ferment approach. You are supposed to speed up the process for a pizza. Its not really like a bread. His book: p. 117.
Posted by: Maerhyl | March 13, 2010 at 12:07 PM