How To Make Requesón

Last weekend:

I ate my first guanabana (finally I know what a soursop is) and it was glorious;

Saw Orion's scabbard for the first time and the Southern Cross;

Heard my first screech owl (more of a cooer than a screecher, it turns out);

Picked a grapefruit off a tree for the first time, and had it for breakfast;

And finally tried requesón, something Joanie had promised to teach me to make for ages.

Those of you who think etymologically probably have already guessed that requesón is a kissing cousin of ricotta. And I suppose you could say that both are fresh cheeses made of milk. But requesón has a tropical character, curdled with Seville orange juice (also known as bitter or sour orange) and speckled with orange peel, its curds loose and creamy. Puerto Ricans eat requesón on crackers with guava paste, which is delicious, but I liked it even better spread on hearty whole-grain bread, topped with orange marmalade, the chunks of orange peel glistening in the faintly bitter jelly.

It's easy as can be - the hardest part is sourcing Seville oranges for juicing. (Alejandra says to look in Latin markets and grocers for them, under naranja agria, and if you're not able to find them, to use a mixture of lemon and orange juice - grapefruit is too floral.) You simply scald whole milk in a pot, then turn off the heat and add a cup of Seville orange juice and the grated peel of a regular orange (this can be to taste, you could just do the peel of half an orange). Then you pour the curdling, hot milk through a cheesecloth draped over an empty pot. The whey drains off while the requesón slowly appears, firming up as more and more liquid drips off.

Some people like their requesón moist and loose, and some like it dryer and firm - simply remove the cheese from the cheesecloth when you think it's the consistency that appeals to you. The cheese will continue to firm up in the fridge and over time, but you can always keep a bit of the whey on hand to mix into the cheese to moisten it. (Also, turns out leftover requesón whey is wonderful when baked into bread.)

When your requesón is ready, turn it into a serving bowl and salt it - just a bit - to taste. You need the salt to balance the flavors. Then refrigerate it until you're ready to eat it, most likely the next morning for breakfast.

Creamy and citrusy, but in the faintest, most agreeable way, it makes a gorgeous breakfast, as I said, spread on nice bread and topped with orange marmalade, if you're really digging the citrus, or with guava paste, if you'd prefer a smoother, sweeter counterbalance. It makes a very nice afternoon snack, too, and people lacking sweet teeth would probably enjoy this even without the jammy accompaniment. I know I did.

***

I was all blue after leaving Puerto Rico, its balmy 89 degrees, and my lovely friends to return to a freezing cold New York, but nothing could have cheered me up quicker than being listed in the Times of London's round-up of the world's best food blogs and featured in this companion article. I'm in some pretty inspiring company. Have a read!

Requesón

1/2 gallon whole milk
1 cup sour orange juice, freshly squeezed
Grated peel from 1 regular orange
Salt to taste

1. Scald the milk in a heavy pot over medium heat. While the milk is heating, lay a cheesecloth over an empty pot for draining.

2. When the milk is about to boil, turn off the heat and add the orange juice and peel. Mix briefly. The milk will immediately start to curdle. Slowly pour the milk into the cheesecloth. Drain the requeson for about half an hour, or longer, depending on the desired consistency of the cheese.

3. Scoop the requeson into a container, season with salt to taste, let cool if not yet at room temperature, and refrigerate.

Comments

[meleyna]

This look so, so good. Funnily enough I've never heard of this, yet one of my favorite breakfasts is ricotta I've whipped with honey and orange zest spread onto a toasted bagel.

And how great was that grapefruit? I sometimes forget how good I have it here, where people set up bags of citrus, a coffee can, and a sign, "Honor system! $1 a bag."

[elizabeth]

This looks amazing! Would you have a suggestion on how to replicate the sour orange combination for those of us in grey New England? I've read grapefruit, orange and lime together could work, but if you have a better suggestion it would be much appreciated!

[Cali]

Yum! Do you think this could this be made with low-fat milk? (i know, i know ;) )

[Lisa (Homesick Texan)]

Why have I never heard of this? Sounds so refreshing and I love that the acid comes from citrus and not vinegar.

[maggie (p&c)]

Wow, this is totally new to me too. Hope you had a lovely vacation.

[Adrienne]

Oh, yum, fresh cheese! Looks delightful - and it looks like you had a wonderful vacation!

[Phoo-D]

One of my earliest memories is picking a grapefruit - I was amazed they grew on a bush! I have never heard of requeson and it sounds ethereal. Seville oranges are unheard of around here...I wonder if I can find them online.

[Culinarywannabe]

I've never heard of this before, but I've been toying around with the idea of homemade ricotta. I like the addition of the orange juice/peel in this even more though!

[Jen]

Soursop-- yumm!! I've only had it made into a "punch" in the islands-- did you eat it straight? What is the texture like?

[Blushing Hostess]

I have not heard of this before - orange cheese. I will try it as the texture in the firsrt shot looks amazing and I am also a fan of marmalade. Thank you, Luisa.

[Luisa]

Elizabeth - I don't. If you try this with that mixture, let us know how it goes.

Cali - no, I don't think you can substitute low-fat milk here. It'd be a waste of milk and orange juice - I'm not sure it would even coagulate.

Phoo-D - and where I was, they grew on trees! :)

Jen - I did eat it straight. It was amazing. The texture is bizarre, kind of like wet cotton wool, but juicier than that (and more appealing than it sounds). And the flavor, my goodness.

[Aubrey]

I'm also a huge fan of guanabana - I've eaten them straight off the tree in central and south America. They definitely have a bizarre consistency, but wow - they are so tasty. Just thinking about it makes me want one right now. But I'm at work. In South Carolina. Far from anywhere with fresh guanabana around. Sigh.

[Amy]

This looks awesome. I'll have to try it.

[Rose-Anne]

Oh, what a lovely post! And homemade ricotta! I want to run to Whole Foods right now to pick up the ingredients. Like Elizabeth, I'll probably have to tinker with the citrus because I have no idea if I can find Seville oranges around here. If I have any success with substitutions, I'll report back :-) I think lime and a regular (sweeter) orange could work...

[Foodess]

Yum! I bet it would be good in cheesecake!

[Luisa]

Rose-Anne - just remember, Seville orange juice is not sweet, so make sure to keep the blend in the sour range.

Foodess - this isn't a sweet cheese, so I can't really imagine it in cheesecake.

[Lovinglunch]

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/real_food/article5561425.ece

Congratulations! Was excited to see you on this list!

[Lisa (dinner party)]

Congrats, Luisa! So well-deserved.

[Consummate Chef]

Looks good and so easy to make! Reminds me of ricotta on toasted Italian bread with honey.

[Vicky]

If been raving about Guanabana since I enjoy it in Mexico. I'd describe it as banana/pineapple in flavor and slimy and pulpy in texture. And I finally know the American name for it is, thanks!

[Shauna]

I was so excited to see your blog on the list, hooray! And very well-deserved.

[Laura]

Oh delish! I've never come across Requesón, it look so refreshing.

Many, many congratulations on the top 100s! That's fantastic.

[Laura]

...and by 100 I mean 50! Whoops.

[Laura]

Congratulations on the mention! It is so terrible that you had to come back to such awful weather. But I must try this...looks like a nice addition to my breakfast repertoire.

[BF]

congrats luisa, that's great! and i can't wait to make this.

[Laura]

Wow this sounds a billion times tastier than ricotta. Esp with the marmalade. YUM.

[Ellie from Kitchen Caravan]

Wow! This looks amazingly tasty. My mom and grandma are huge marmalade fans - I'll have to store this recipe in the back of my mind for a Mother's Day treat.

[Alejandra]

My boyfriend and I actually just got back from Puerto Rico last week and definitely understand the sadness of leaving that beautiful island for freezing New York.

For those who have trouble finding Seville oranges in regular grocery stores, I would recommend trying a bodega or supermarket in a latin neighborhood and asking the shopkeeper for "naranja agria" (which means sour orange). I live in NY on the cusp of Washington Heights and Harlem and they sell these at all the stores in saran-wrapped packs of 3 and 4 for a dollar.

On the outside, the oranges are kind of ugly--tough-skinned and with brown patches--but the juice is spectacular for cooking. I'm Puerto Rican and we use these oranges all the time for meat marinades and even freshly squeezed as juice with just a bit of sugar added (think orangeade, but not watered down). A combination of half lemon and half regular orange juice mimics the flavor well (I'd skip the grapefruit as it's a bit too floral).

[Alex]

Sounds fantsatic. The bitterness of seville oranges is just perfect, isn't it?

[lobstersquad]

Hi there
congrats on your number THREE slot on The Times´ top fifty food blogs. The London times, not your Wednesday favourite, but still.

[la ninja]

Looooove requesón, only the variety I know (Spanish) does not involve orange juice or peel at all... Let me check with my sources (as in granma & mum) but I reckon Spanish requesón is more "ricottay" than Puerto Rican (good old conservative Europe, hey!!) Great to hear (read rather) about it's exotic cousin, though! Have to try that one, defo!

Hooray on the mentions (have yet to browse through them but hooray all the same!)

[Luisa]

Alejandra - thank you for those tips! Good to know.

Alex - so perfect. I love them. If I'd stayed longer, we would have made marmalade with the remaining ones. Next time.

La Ninja - I'd love to know more about Spanish requesón, keep us posted.

Thank you everyone! I'm still beaming.

[Keri]

I've just discovered your blog, and it is fabulous. I want to try this immediately.

[Shawna]

Wow Luisa, top 50 in THE WORLD!!!
That's fantastic!

[Cory]

Luisa! I'm so proud of you! I refer to your recipe collection often and am quick to boast that someone I know is such a star food writer. You deserve all the praise. Congratulations!

[la ninja]

Will do!
You won't happen to read Spanish, though, will you? (with your Italian background, the possibility's there, right?)

[christy]

yum. i can't wait to try this.

[Sophie]

This cheese looks so appetizing,...mmmmm...

[Arlette]

sounds very yummy and interesting, I am sorry I don't have Seville Orange where I live in Northern Ontario... BRrrrrrrrrrr

I do have a bottled sour orange juice do you think it will work???
i know its not fresh....

I want to take the chance to congratulate you on your blog and the recognition as one of the best 50 food blog...
all the best
Arlette

[thecatskillkiwi]

love ricotta, love making ricotta, and am going to give making this a go, congratulations on your blog honoring!

[Sarah]

i work at a whole foods in massachusetts, and i know that we do often carry seville oranges...perhaps that would be a good place for people to look as well?
this looks fantastic...i can't wait to get some seville oranges after work today and try this myself.

[Sylvie]

Fresh farm cheese is so good, but sometime one wants a little variation, you know? Glad to have a new idea for it. Thank youy Luisa (and congrats on the nomination - so NOT surprising, though, I have to say...)

Sylvie

[Julie]

How wonderful to spend a week in a tropical paradise in February. (It seems to me that anyplace that's 89 degrees in February and where you can pick your own grapefruit automatically qualifies as a paradise.) I've never heard of requesón but it sounds delicious.

And I was so excited to see your name on that list! Go Luisa!

[Joy]

Guanabana are wonderful, if messy. When I lived in Costa Rica, we had a guanabana tree in our yard. I like the way the fruits look like something from the stone age.

[emma]

YUM! I have some blood orange marmalade in the refrigerator that would go wonderfully with that! One of my typical snacks is either whole grain bread or crackers with jam or honey on top. I'll have to try this version. The orange would probably give it a nice flavor. Congrats on the mention for the top 50 blogs!

[Milena]

You have a lovely blog and I'm enjoying all the recipes. I grew up eating guanabana and eating requeson. How nice to see you mention both. Thanks for reminding me of the things I love about my Latin American upbringing. I'll visit more often.

[Sonja]

This is totally my thing! While I don't eat any "real" cheese, I'm really fond of all types of cream cheese.

The citrus taste sounds really special, I've never heard of it... I know Requesón from Spain, but as far as I remember it didn't have anything to do with oranges there...

[Ararart]

I made this using approximately half fresh squeezed orange juice and half fresh squeezed lemon juice because I had them and didn't want to seek out the Seville oranges right away.
The cheese was DELICIOUS and so, so easy. I served it to weekend house guests and everyone loved it.
Thanks!

[Cleoff]

I made this as well, and it was delicious, though a bit dry. I may have allowed it to drain too long. I used some in a frittata and it was fabulous.

[Nikolas]

Thanks for making it, Louisa. We enjoyed the rest when we got down there a couple of days after you left.