
This will be a very quick dispatch indeed, frustratingly quick, I'm afraid, because - people, this is big - I have tasted manna and I have no recipe for you and I can only hope you're all very distracted with Christmas plans and travel itineraries and far more important things than checking in with me here so that you won't entirely hate me once I tell you about this elixir and how we all not only have to wait for summer to make it ourselves, but source ourselves an elderberry bush, which as you might know is not so easy at all, no sirree, Bob.
I was at Joan's the other night, for the Springerle bake-off (more on that soon, I promise), when she innocently asked me if I wanted a cool drink. With her Holundersyrup, to be exact. Holunder is the German word for elderberry (and, more importantly, elderflower) and seeing as my mother, a very accomplished preserver, to be fair, was the source of some pretty gnarly elderberry preserves a few years ago, I wrinkled my nose (politely!) and said I'd try a small sip. You know, to be gracious. Well. Well. Yes. Let me try to explain what happened next.
I took a sip of cool tap water that Joan had mixed with a spoonful of the golden syrup. And suddenly, like a gentle thunderclap or a small fissure in the space-time continuum, I was transported. Summer, Berlin summer, was in my mouth! How odd. I stood in the kitchen, the wintry scent of cinnamon hanging lightly in the air, candles aglow and darkness swirling about outside - all hallmarks of Christmas in Berlin - and yet there I was, with summer in my mouth. Birds chirping, warm breezes blowing, blooming branches dropping petals on the sidewalk. It was all quite marvelous. After all, I haven't been to Berlin in the summer since 2001 and to say I've missed it would be the understatement of the decade.
So, now to explain to those souls out there who don't know the beauty that is summer in Berlin (seriously, dear readers, gas prices are plummeting, no one's traveling - book yourselves a flight already): elderflower syrup is fruity and sweet and cooling and refreshing, incredibly so, yet not cloying like rose water, even though it is floral. It's cool floral, not florid floral. Know what I mean? Am I making any sense? Should I shut up already? Just take it from me: elderfloral syrup is an absolute dream.
I don't have an exact recipe right now, though apparently Joan found one on the internet that she improvised with. Next summer, I promise, I'll make this in Italy, where we have lots of elderberry bushes growing wild, and I'll give you exact proportions. But, roughly speaking, here's what you do: get yourselves a whole mess of elderflower blossoms, some sugar, lemons, citric acid and a bit of water. Put it all in a crock (earthenware, I guess) and cover it and let it macerate in the dark for four days. Strain it and voila! Wait, that doesn't sound right. Maybe you let the elderflower blossoms and the citric acid and the lemon juice macerate for a few days and then you make a simple syrup with the sugar and water and then you mix it together with the strained elderflower liquid, and then voila! Hmm. I don't know.
But what I do know is that, man, I can't wait to have more of that stuff. And that I'm so happy to be here right now that I'd like time to stop. That's all.


happy holidays! I just love how foods are evocative of places and memories...have never had elderberry syrup!
Posted by: maggie | December 21, 2008 at 02:13 PM
It is available as a cordial year around here. I like it very much. If I was into it I would be out and pick the flowers at the right time but I am not THAT into fiddling about so I by it ready made.
Posted by: Jessika | December 21, 2008 at 02:31 PM
Sounds delish! I don't know if it will be a close approximation or not, but I often buy this elderflower coridal and it's quite yummy.
http://www.bottle-green.co.uk/cordials.asp
I'll keep buying it until next summer when you have a chance to perfect your recipe!
Posted by: Dana McCauley | December 21, 2008 at 02:39 PM
My only hint of elderberry flavor wa a Williams-Sonoma Elderberry and Thyme Margarita Mix. Probably not the SAME summer flavor, but still very interesting. My summer flavor is blackberry, but I'm always looking for new ones!
Posted by: Katharine | December 21, 2008 at 04:26 PM
Sounds like you had your very own Proustian moment! Next stop ... seven volumes of memories?
Posted by: Brent | December 21, 2008 at 05:33 PM
I go to Ikea at least twice a year to stock up on jars of lingonberries, which I serve with roast chicken, and Hafi Queens Blend Preserves, which is "a most succesful marriage of two berries" - red raspberries and wild blueberries - the only preserves I like (I mean love) except for bitter orange marmalade.
In my refrigerator at this exact moment is a jar of Hafi Swedish Ederberry Flower Syrup, which I picked up the last time I was on my Ikea foray.
It probably isn't as good as this one, but it's better than nothing. Check it out.
Posted by: Victoria | December 21, 2008 at 06:08 PM
Ooh, that sounds great. I love elderflower flavor. I've had St. Germain elderflower liqueur and it's got the same fruity-flowery delicacy. There's also a British brand of elderflower flavored water I'm quite taken with - they sell it upstairs in Kalustyan's refrigerated case. They have a large selection of flower syrups, so you might even find an acceptable version of your Berlin summer there.
Posted by: Moriah | December 21, 2008 at 06:47 PM
Sometime you must try my favorite cocktail -- it's from a resto in Chelsea run by the designer Nicole Farhi. The restaurant is called 202, and so is the cocktail, which is made of "muddled grapes, Ciroc vodka, and elderflower sorbet." It's the most refreshing, evocative way to get just a teeny bit sozzled that I know of...
Posted by: Julie | December 21, 2008 at 11:09 PM
Luisa, help! The label on that bottle, did you by any chance buy it yourself, and could you tell me where I can find it? I´ve been looking for just that sort of thing for ages, and it´s unheard of in Spain.
If it´s your friend´s, could you please find out for me? I´d be eternally grateful
Posted by: lobstersquad | December 22, 2008 at 01:45 AM
Finding a way to limit the number of actual elderberries that grow on the bushes every year is a wonderful thing. They're a nuisance nearly everywhere here in the UK - total weeds, growing voraciously and taking over otherwise labour-free gardens. And the birds love the berries, but make a complete mess. In the summer, most of the bushes seem to sport an overweight pigeon cooing gluttonously to itself and over-balancing in an attempt to walk along branches too thin to support its weight. I don't like the berries much, but elderflower cordial with fizzy water and ice is perfect...
Posted by: Hazel | December 22, 2008 at 05:53 AM
In the UK we call it Elderflower cordial. It is truly delicious! My aunt also makes elderflower champagne.
Posted by: Sian | December 22, 2008 at 07:20 AM
My great-aunt used to make something called Holundersekt which despite the name didn't contain any alcohol but was just a refreshing drink made from elderflowers, water, lemons, sugar and citric acid. I love the flavour of elderflowers, even the tea made from dried flowers is nice.
Berlin summers are great, they make up for the winters - although this year it has not been so bad yet. Enjoy your stay!
Posted by: Florentine | December 22, 2008 at 09:26 AM
Luisa, your writing is so charming that I will forgive the recipe omission. Wishing you a most delightful, delicious holiday season!
Posted by: Dawn in CA | December 22, 2008 at 11:58 AM
This reminds me of the Nordic berry drink called "Saft". It is a mixed berry reduction that is reconstituted as you mentioned. It is a small slice of heaven when I have it on hand.
Posted by: MODman | December 22, 2008 at 06:27 PM
I love how frenetic the pace of this entry is... v. like the season. But tasty, too! Cheers!
Posted by: Mary | December 22, 2008 at 11:00 PM
Shameless self-promotion here, but this is a recipe you could try:
http://foodandthoughts.blogspot.com/2008/07/dansk-hyldeblomstsaft-its-too-late-now.html
I made my first batch this summer and still have a tiny bit left in the freezer, waiting for when I desperately need to be reminded that summer will be back.
Happy Holidays to you and yours, Luisa!
Posted by: Zarah Maria | December 23, 2008 at 09:00 AM
I want time to stop too - I love spending time with my family. But I miss you so much so I hope time doesn't stop completely. xoxo
p.s happy christmas
Posted by: gemma | December 23, 2008 at 09:46 PM
Not hard to make at all!
for a half gallon of water, use about 4lbs of sugar, 20 sprigs of elderflowers (though the more the merrier), a thinly sliced lemon, and then you need--the annoying bit--between 50 and 100 grams of citric acid. you can get it sometimes at supermarkets, sometimes at drug stores, and the weight is probably about 2 Tbs.
put everything but the flowers together in a bucket, mix well (don't worry about dissolving the sugar yet--it'll happen), and then add the flowers. I like to shake them to get off any bugs, and als clip off the biggest stems. Add them to the mix, stir, and wait. A couple of days, stir a couple times each day. filter through a cloth and boom.
A couple points: if you keep the acid down (citric and lemon) you can use it for whipping with cream!
the flowers are everywhere in the midwest, and often in the east. Try railroad tracks and waysides, other unnatural clearings with woods on one side. if you get the oldest ones (but not yet browning) the syrup has more perfume.
If you use less citric acid, you should keep it cool. In any case, you may get some cloudiness over time. whatever. still tastes good.
Posted by: geniesser | December 24, 2008 at 06:16 AM
I love those sweet mismatched tea cups in the top photo—so dear.
My friend Lee makes Elderflower jelly at her Pamplemousse Preserves (check their website if interested), it always sounds dreamy to me.
Hope you have a wonderful holiday, my dear. Good luck with the curry wurst, merely hearing the name brought back memories of numerous late night visits to the wurstel stands of Vienna when I was a student. Fun!
Posted by: Tea | December 25, 2008 at 04:06 AM
Thanks again for another terrific and inspiring posting! I love the blue & white mugs hanging in the background. About seven years ago I started collecting white mugs: no colors or logos, just plain white in different sizes & shapes. Every morning I pick out the one that I want to start my day with, and rarely go to the same one twice. Some are simple fired & glazed clay, some are fine porcelain, but all are appreciated for their individuality and the way that they make my morning coffee into something just a bit more special than a routine.
Posted by: Sommelier | December 26, 2008 at 07:44 PM
i too love your mugs in the background. elderflower syrup is lovely - and quite popular in england. i'm a fan of that elderflower liquor, st germain, a dash of that in a coup of champagne is most refreshing.
Posted by: johanna | December 27, 2008 at 05:47 PM
I love elderflower cordial, too! I have never been to Berlin, but I've had it in summer in London. I also love it in cocktail form. I'll be excited to see your recipe when you find it out (and to hear where you get the elderflower from--I'm also in New York). If you want your elderflower before the summer and in alcoholic form, however, I recommend this fantastic artisanal liqueur I recently stumbled upon:
http://www.stgermain.fr/
It's amazing with sparkling water or prosecco. Enjoy your trip!
Posted by: Amber | December 27, 2008 at 08:52 PM
Hi! Your post has so much energy and the comments here are also very helpful! I have just discovered your blog and I am already a fan. I am going to try to find a bottle of Saint Germain to mix with Champagne for new year's. I actually live in Saint Germain so it will be fun to see if that helps with my search for a bottle! I will keep you posted!
Posted by: Carla | December 28, 2008 at 12:35 PM
Living as I do in the southern hemisphere everyone else has just gone on holidays. I have walked up my neighbours' long driveway to let their chooks out for the last five mornings. At the creek, just before the bridge, is an elderberry bush, laden with creamy flower heads. This time next year I will try the cordial but I am immersed in zucchini and plum recipes at the moment - the reason I happened upon your excellent blog in the first place.
The harvest is rich this year!
Posted by: stewardy | January 1, 2009 at 12:34 AM
Hi Luisa,
If your up for another cordial recipe or even Hollerküchln...
http://tinyurl.com/nxu75
Happy 2009 :)
Posted by: Nicky | January 4, 2009 at 12:43 PM
hi. its actually elderflower syrup or cordial. the stuff made from the berries later in the year is compleatly different! delicious too though
Posted by: trish | January 7, 2009 at 07:34 AM
You can find elderflower and black elderberry syrups here:
http://www.germandeli.com/darbo1.html
Posted by: Nicole | January 7, 2009 at 01:39 PM
Yes. One MUST use elderflowers common to the European countryside to make the cordial (Sambucus nigra). The elderflower commonly found in the American northeast, S. canadensis, makes a foul brew. Your nose will tell you this when sniffing the flowers.
Here in the states, I find the best source for an excellent elderflower cordial (Belvoir is the label, imported from the UK) is www.jollygrub.com
Posted by: zephyr | February 3, 2009 at 09:49 AM
I just tried an elderberry martini made with some lemon juice. it was absolutely delicious. Not too sweet and the elderberry perfectly cuts the taste of the vodka - I live in the Northeast and will be looking for it this summer! Better yet - no hangover- i wonder what if any medicinal qualities there are for elderflower.
Posted by: Jen | February 14, 2009 at 10:54 AM