
Why, why on earth would I be telling you folks something about coleslaw right now? I mean, it's the day before Thanksgiving, it's cold outside, we're all running around like chickens with our heads cut off, in disbelief that we actually need to buy 4 more sticks of butter, another pound of potatoes and 2 last cans of pureed pumpkin, and besides, what in God's name do I have to say about coleslaw when I'm, like, the president and secretary-treasurer of the Mayonnaise Hater's Alliance?
Here's the thing: as much as I dislike mayo, I love, luuuurve, coleslaw. I guess I should say that I love cabbage. Like a good little German girl, really. Punctual, orderly, and a cabbage fiend, yes, that sounds about right. Stuffed, braised, shredded, pickled, sauteed, spicy - I'm quickly realizing that cabbage may be the world's most perfect vegetable. It's crisp and refreshing in summer, warm and hearty in winter. It's easy enough to be a 15-minute dinner along with some bread and cheese and fancy enough to be a reliable star on holiday tables. I mean, seriously, cabbage! You need a crown and a scepter - I'm crowning you the Queen of Vegetables.
But wasn't I talking about something else? Oh right, coleslaw. Tasty, but preferably without the goop and slime of mayo. Since I adore cabbage and I also love applesauce and mustard seeds, my ears pricked up right quick when I saw Jeremy Fox's contribution to the article Kim Severson wrote last week about Thanksgiving sides. His slaw recipe has you slice up some cabbage, shred some radishes and a Granny Smith or two, then toss all that with an apple-cider vinaigrette that's spiked with mustard and applesauce. To gild the lily, Jeremy throws in a few mustard seeds and some toasted walnuts.

I am a bit of a scatterbrain, so I forgot about the mustard seeds and the walnuts (even though they were right there in my kitchen - is this Thanksgiving brain?) and still, this was delicious. Cool and crisp and tangy and sort of sweetish, but not too sweet (I used less apples than called for): suddenly it dawned on me. This salad was coleslaw without the mayonnaise! Holy Grail, found.
It kept relatively well in the fridge overnight, requiring just another quick glug of olive oil to perk it up again the next day, when I also threw in the mustard seeds. Better late than never. They were lovely, of course, because cabbage and mustard seeds are soul mates and meant to be together, like Romeo and Juliet, Beatrice and Benedict, peas and pods, oh, stop me right now.
I think you need hot vegetables on the Thanksgiving table, but cold ones are perfect for the many turkey-related meals that follow. Turkey salad on sandwiches, turkey pot-pie, turkey quesadillas, whatever, however, this slaw will keep the leftovers in very good company indeed.
And with that, I'm off. To make more cabbage, of course! Happy Thanksgiving, everyone.
Savoy Cabbage Slaw with Applesauce Vinaigrette and Mustard Seeds
Serves 6
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon applesauce
1/3 cup olive oil
FOR THE SALAD:
4 cups savoy cabbage, sliced as thinly as possible
1 large bunch red radishes
1 Granny Smith apple
1/2 lemon, juiced
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped
Salt and black pepper to taste
1. Make vinaigrette: In a bowl, mix
together mustard, salt, vinegar and applesauce. Slowly whisk in olive
oil a little at a time until dressing emulsifies. Set aside.
2. Make salad: Put cabbage in a large bowl. Using the shredding blade of a food processor or a box grater, shred radishes until you have 1 cup. Add to bowl.
3. Core apples and shred in food processor or with box grater until you have 2 cups. Put shredded apple into a bowl filled with lemon juice and 2 cups water, to prevent apple from browning.
4. When ready to serve, gently squeeze water from apple, add to cabbage and toss slaw with vinaigrette. Add mustard seeds and toss again. Sprinkle walnuts on top of slaw. Season with salt and pepper.


If we don't have coleslaw with our Thanksgiving meal, it just isn't Thanksgiving at all. And I love the mayo kind. But this one just sounds so fall-ish and lovely. I might just have to try it!
Posted by: Amy | November 26, 2008 at 01:39 PM
lol! you have made my day with this post, luisa. queen of vegetables indeed.
I am also a mayonnaise hater so was quite intrigued by this recipe as well. your review confirms my pressing need to make/consume it. guess I know what'll be happening in my kitchen on the day after Thanksgiving.
have a lovely holiday!
Posted by: jenny | November 26, 2008 at 01:52 PM
I love cabbage too. My favorite meal every is my grandma's cabbage and noodle - just cabbage, salt and butter cooked down into golden goodness and tossed with bowtie noodle. Yum!!
Posted by: Culinarywannabe | November 26, 2008 at 02:06 PM
This sounds SO good; then again, I have never met a slaw I didn't like. And I have savoy on the brain too, but I seriously had to go to ten stores to find one! But Napa is everywhere, sigh. Oh, and I hear you on the groceries--just went out to buy MORE eggs, heavy cream and chocolate.
I hope you have a fantastic Thanksgiving!
Posted by: deb | November 26, 2008 at 02:25 PM
This sounds delicious. I too love cabbage, and by default--coleslaw. I've never been really crazy about the creamy dressing though...I'm definitely going to try this one.
Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving.
BTW--I love your blog.
Posted by: c.kramer | November 26, 2008 at 02:32 PM
Mr Chiots will love this - he hates anything that has to do with mayo. I'll be making this for sure sometime soon!
Posted by: Susy | November 26, 2008 at 02:39 PM
This sounds like a great counterpoint to all the rich fatty goodness I am about to ingest. Thanks!
And may I say that your blog (how to say... your distinct voice, your culinary instincts, your taste) is one of the things I am thankful for this year?
Posted by: monica | November 26, 2008 at 05:01 PM
Oh I am just mad mad mad for cabbage also!! In absolutely any form and yes, any of it's cousins. This looks delicious and dare I say a perfect accompaniment for a turkey reuben made from t-giving leftovers. Or in place of the sauerkraut perhaps....? Please excuse me, I'm drooling.
Posted by: A Mouse Bouche | November 26, 2008 at 05:38 PM
Fantastic coleslaw. I love savoy cabbage and the dressing is already making me salivate.
Posted by: [eatingclub] vancouver || js | November 26, 2008 at 05:44 PM
This recipe looks delicious, Normally i use cabbage along with noodles, and your recipe is easy to prepare. and it takes whole cabbage as main ingredient.
Thanks for posting.
Kristy
Posted by: Chef Jobs | November 26, 2008 at 08:32 PM
Martha Stewart Living's October issue had a recipe for German sausages with apples, sauerkraut, and onion that you might like. I made it and it was delicious. Plus it was very quick and easy to make.
The recipe can be found at: http://www.marthastewart.com/recipe/german-sausages-with-apples-sauerkraut-and-onion
Posted by: The Consummate Chef | November 26, 2008 at 10:43 PM
Your post made my day.
Happy Thanksgiving, dear!
Posted by: Reuben Morningchilde | November 27, 2008 at 03:58 AM
I saw this in the NYTimes too and made it for Thanksgiving. It WAS great. I had a couple of vegetarians/big salad eaters at the table and this went over so well. Very very refreshing. I toasted my mustard seeds, I think it makes it nuttier. I'll definitely be making this more often. The sourdough and candied chestnut dressing in the same batch of recipes was pretty fab too.
Posted by: bittermelon | November 27, 2008 at 11:43 PM
This looks SO good, and I don't even like coleslaw. But now ...
Posted by: nicole | November 28, 2008 at 09:25 PM
I made this coleslaw for our Thanksgiving and it was absolutely delicious. I highly recommend it!
http://find.myrecipes.com/recipes/recipefinder.dyn?action=displayRecipe&recipe_id=554719
Posted by: Beth | November 30, 2008 at 12:27 AM
I've hardly even tried cole slaw, being that I would be the perfect vice president of the mayo-haters club, but I have some cabbage that is waiting to be eaten, so I'll have to try this one.
Posted by: Anna | December 01, 2008 at 10:10 AM
I generally don't like mayonnaise so I steer of coleslaw but I think I will give this one a shot.
Posted by: Sara | December 01, 2008 at 04:08 PM
Oh yes - I love all types of cole slaw. I think it is the crunchiness of it and the many ways to make different kinds. It always tastes so refreshing and healthy.
Posted by: EAT! | December 03, 2008 at 10:41 AM
Thanks for sharing this coleslaw. Joining in the chorus of mayo-snubs, I much prefer slaw with apple cider vinaigrette. How critical is the tablespoon of applesauce?
Posted by: L*Joy | December 05, 2008 at 01:32 PM
L*Joy - it's not hugely critical, but I kind of liked the sweetness it added.
Posted by: Luisa | December 06, 2008 at 08:06 AM
Luisa
Thanks for replying. This slaw is being added to my list of things to make as soon as possible.
enjoy the day.
L*Joy
Posted by: L*Joy | December 08, 2008 at 08:01 AM
I found an awesome recipe from an indian cookbook called "5 spices." Anyway it has cabbage sauteed with mustard seed, tumeric and cayenne pepper. Super yummy. Give it a try! :)
Posted by: Jame | December 10, 2008 at 12:43 AM
I came to your blog via Orangette, and when I saw this recipe, I thought I'd better convert that head of cabbage setting at the bottom of my refrigerator into this salad. I didn't have any radishes on hand, so I left them out, but YUMM! I love it! I've eaten nearly the whole thing, since my husband doesn't like cabbage. Thanks!
Posted by: melanie | December 12, 2008 at 01:24 PM
We loved this recipe when we tried it when you first posted. It's now a year later, and it's morphed into something where the apple component just isn't that important. We no longer use applesauce in the dressing the we add chopped apple (not grated) only if there is no other sweet/sour flavor in the meal, or if we are bringing it to a potluck. Sometimes we don't have radishes and I've mixed in arugula or other bitter salad greens in with the coleslaw. All in all a very yummy fall/winter salad. And so appreciated when I go to the refrigerator and there is no lettuce.
Posted by: Kristine in Santa Barbara | December 21, 2009 at 09:39 PM
I love coleslaw and am always coming up with new ways to kick it up a notch. I like this recipe, but I confess that I do like a creamy dressing on my coleslaw so I switched out the olive oil and subbed lo-fat yogurt instead. Loved it! And the bonus is that its much lower cal during a season when I could use a lo-cal go-to recipe to offset all the hi-calorie faves I'm consuming.
Posted by: Cooking For Kids | April 04, 2010 at 12:51 PM