I Can See It in My Dreams

What can I say that hasn't been said before? I went to New Orleans and I fell in love. I wasn't expecting to, but I did. I'm back at my desk in New York now and all I keep thinking about is how much I want to be back there again, smelling that sweet, soft air. It got me, wrapped itself around me, and now I don't want it to let me go. When can I go back? I have so much more to see and do.

Okay, a quick report. It turns out that while Central Grocery may indeed have the city's best muffaletta, I simply don't like muffaletta. I did, however, like sitting by the Mississippi eating said sandwich and thinking about Mark Twain and Italy and you, dear readers. It also turns out that if you think you are above some old tradition of eating fried dough squares with coffee, you should get over yourself right quick, because revered traditions exist for a good reason. (Ninny.) So yes, I loved Cafe du Monde. It really is worth the whopping $1.82 you'll spend to get three puffy beignets covered in what seems like an excessive amount of powdered sugar. You'll discover that they're yeasty and delicious and chewy and crisp and, improbably, not too sweet at all. Huh.

Dinner at Cochon was indeed fantastic, so thank you all for the recommendation (I loved the pork cheeks and the pickled green tomatoes). I also have it on good authority from Russ Parsons that if you go to Cochon, you should not leave before ordering the Catdaddy Moonshine to end the meal (sadly, I didn't know about it until after my meal there).

If you go to New Orleans, get up early on a Saturday morning and get yourself over to the corner of Girod and Magazine Streets to the Crescent City Farmer's Market. It's small and cozy - contained in just one little parking lot - but making a loop or two around the market, smelling fresh, bright shrimp and seeing strawberries glow in their pint baskets, is an absolutely lovely way to spend the morning. Plus, you have to eat breakfast, right? Well, some genius set up a couple of hot griddles there and cooks sweet and savory pancakes, so once you've had enough produce fondling, you can sit down, listen to gypsy jazz and tuck in. If you aren't so charmed that you have to wipe the grin off your face in order to speak, I will be very surprised.

A shrimp po' boy at Parkway, foie-stuffed rabbit at Bayona, and an old-fashioned meal at Antoine's - I'm ready for a week of salads and early-morning gym visits. But I'm also ready to start planning a return trip. All I want to do is sit by the open window on a streetcar as it rumbles down the street, feel that gentle New Orleans air brush my face and hair, and ride, ride, ride.

To see more of the photos that I took there, click here.

Comments

[Sylvie]

I discovered your blog he other day and just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy reading it.

[Julie]

I haven't been for years. This makes me want to visit.

[Noice]

I am always thrilled when anyone else discovers the allure of that place. I am very happy you enjoyed it and that you liked Cochon. Thank you for your hard work bringing us your life of food. A constant lurker, Noice

[August]

Cafe du Monde is for the tourists. Next time you are in town, find a Morning Call.

http://www.morningcallcoffeestand.com/index.html

They are open 24/7 and somehow manage to keep the doors open with an incredibly small menu. Rumors abound, adding to the charm of the place.

[radish]

I keep begging KS to take me to New Orleans - he went to Tulane and has the most amazing stories and memories... Sounds like you had a divine time!

[Neen]

Thanks for your reviews on places. I'm going through NOLA for the first time this summer, on a road trip (the posh translation for "moving. the cheap way."). I'll be sure to look up some of these places!

[Molly]

What a dreamy little vacation I just took, reading your words. Thank you, m'dear.

[Anne]

We're going to New Orleans this steamy summer. I was excited but your post makes me jumpy to go now!

[Lisa (Homesick Texan)]

Have you read Gumbo Tales yet? You MUST...especially since you've fallen for this magical place.

[Ben]

Nice pics. I especially like the one of the powdered sugar on the ground...

[Lydia (The Perfect Pantry)]

I had the same feeling the first time I visited New Orleans. It is a welcoming and entirely seductive place -- one that now needs all of our support and encouragement to survive and rebuild.

[maryn]

Thrilled that you enjoyed Cochon and the Parkway (sure hope that po'boy was dressed :->)! I am headed back for Jazzfest and Can.Not.Wait.

[Bobbie]

Cafe du Monde may be for the tourists, but I don't care -- I'm with Luisa. I was there in January, and was amazed by the apparently genuine friendliness of everyone, and, of course, the ubiquity of wonderful music. But...can you possibly not have eaten gumbo??

[Leah]

Oh girl. If I weren't already wishing I could be in New Orleans, I certainly am now. Gorgeous photos, gorgeous post. You've inspired me - one year from now, I want to be making a post like this of my very own.

[Maggi]

Oh yeeeay! I'm so glad you enjoyed Cochon and Bayona. I try to make it back to NOLA any chance I get. It really is fun, and I always enjoy eating my way through the city. Glad you enjoyed your trip!

[Luisa]

Sylvia - welcome! I'm glad you're enjoying the site.

August - that's going on my list for the next trip, for sure. Thanks!

Lisa - it's on my wishlist. I'm looking forward to reading it!

Lydia - amen, amen. It really does.

Maryn - that po'boy was indeed dressed. My friends got the oyster one, and I had a little bit of orderer's remorse (my shrimp were good but not as good as that fried oyster - YUM).

Bobbie - gulp, ahem, yes. I had no gumbo, no etouffee, and no jambalaya. I had to keep some things for the next trip, no? :)

[ann]

I've never wanted to go to New Orleans more than after reading your thoughts on the place! Thanks for sharing them with us!

[David]

Glad you managed to avoid all that yummy conference food, which I remember all too well...

[Julie]

I'm so glad you fell in love with this completely remarkable place. I went for the first and so far only time to NOLA exactly six weeks before Katrina hit. I'm hoping to go back in June.

I'm not much for the muffaletta either. I like the olive salad on other sandwiches, though. I'm so glad you went to Antoine's -- it's truly one of those places that time forgot, and worth going for that reason alone, although I will say I did love my pompano with crabmeat and whatever rich creamy sauce they doused it with...

[Sheltie Girl]

New Orleans is a wonderful city and especially so in the spring. Flowers abound and hang everywhere in the French Quarter. I'm delighted that you had a fabulous time and enjoyed the food so much. Sounds like you need another trip to get a sip of that Moonshine.

Sheltie Girl @ Gluten A Go Go

[We Are Never Full]

Thanks for bringing me back. I haven't been to a post-Katrina N.O. but I can not wait to visit again. It's on the list - I think my british husband would love it. There is something magical about the city. There's a buzz, an energy that's like no where I've ever been (and we live in NYC!). And Cafe du Monde is a tourist stop that is a MUST (even if you prefer to be a non-tourist kind of tourist).

[mk]

Recently found this site -- it is lovely! Also LOVED the pictures. You have a great eye. Also, what kind of camera do you have? I am in the market for one and would love to know what you use. Thanks so much!

[Luisa]

David - I mean, it's ridiculous how bad it is. Culinary professionals! Please.

Julie - the best part of the meal were the souffled potatoes and Roederer champagne that we started with. I was drinking and nibbling and listening to our waiter's most beautiful accent (so beautiful I wanted to reach over and kiss it) and feeling like I had to hold on that moment forever.

We Are Never Full - magical indeed! I can't wait to go back, really.

MK - welcome! And thank you so much. I use a Nikon D80 with a 50 mm fixed lens.

[pam]

isn't it always nice to hear an outsider say lovely things about your city? yes.

a good friend of mine has a stall at the farmer's market, selling her baked goods. :)

it really is the sweetest smelling time of year, with all of the sweet olive in bloom. heavenly!

[Natty]

Wow! We must have been there at the same time! We also ate at Cochon and LOVED it... the pigs ear and the oyster roast? Yum. And I started my meal with CatDaddy... thank goodness it isn't available where I live. Were you there for French Quarter Fest?

It's a town that gets into your bones.