Suvir Saran's Spicy Roasted Chicken Thighs

I'm cutting straight to the punch today. This chicken recipe is delicious. Ben wouldn't stop talking about how good it was. The last time he was this enthusiastic was when Amanda Hesser's Lemon Chicken entered our lives, and we all know how good that was (don't we?).

It's simple (you process a bunch of spicy, aromatic ingredients and smear the paste onto raw chicken thighs, then roast them until they're juicy and fragrant, and a gorgeous little gravy has created itself at the bottom of the pan) and very tasty, makes for stellar leftovers, and is cheap, cheap, cheap, considering that chicken thighs cost less than practically everything else in the market.

(Can I stop here and ask what steps any of you contact lens-wearing jalapeno-eaters take when the time comes to deal with these things? I always end up having fiery fingers for at least a day or two, which makes contact insertion and removal nothing short of torturous, but I can't bring myself to use surgical gloves. Am I being foolish?)

I have a feeling we'll be making this again and again - it's just one of those staple recipes you can't help but revert to all of the time. But do you know what's even more exciting that discovering something as good as this hidden in a clipping about cooking with chicken thighs from none other than Mr. Minimalist? (The recipe comes from an Indian chef, Suvir Saran, whose restaurant is mere blocks from where I live and work, so it is a total mystery why I haven't gotten myself there yet. I'm stumped. And hungry. Consider this problem solved quite soon.)

Millet! That's what's so exciting. That fluffy, pale yellow pile of toothsome grains underneath the spicy chicken thigh is no pedestrian accompaniment, oh no. It's the glorious ancient grain, millet, my new favorite pantry stale. Move over, rice. Take a hike, couscous. We've fallen head over heels for millet, and think it's here to stay.

I used Nigella Lawson's recipe (but left out the cumin) and it turned out fantastically. The cooked millet was nutty and substantial, holding up well to the strongly-flavored chicken thighs. Plus, it had the added benefit of making us feel virtuous as we ate. I quite like that feeling.

This morning, I used up the remaining millet to make Mollie Katzen's Crunchy Millet Muffins and I'm pleased to tell you all that I seem to have finally found a muffin that doesn't make me feel like a larded animal after I've eaten one (is it just me? Don't muffins give you a stomach-ache, too?). They're very plain, spiced with just a fillip of cinnamon and a small amount of brown sugar, but the millet goes into the simple batter raw, and the muffins bake up into soft, yet crunchy domes that go quite nicely with a glass of orange juice or a mug of milky tea.

Millet for breakfast, millet for lunch, millet for dinner. Millet! I think I love you.

Spicy Roasted Chicken Thighs
Serves 4

8 chicken thighs, with skin, pierced all over with a small knife
5 cloves garlic, peeled
1 2-inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled
1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded
Juice and zest of 1 whole lemon
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1 teaspoon cumin powder
1 teaspoon coriander seeds or ground coriander

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Put chicken thighs in a bowl. Mince garlic, ginger and pepper. Toss with all remaining ingredients or put in a small food processor, and grind to a paste. (It is O.K. if the coriander seeds are not fully pulverized. They will add a little crunch.)

2. Rub mixture thoroughly into chicken. At this point, you can cover, and refrigerate for up to a day.

3. Put thighs, skin side up, in a roasting pan. Roast for 45 minutes or until done.

Comments

[shauna]

My dear, I love you. Anyone who sings the praises of millet makes this gluten-free girl happy.

And this chicken? Well, I know what we're having for dinner tonight!

[Tony]

I don't know if this has ever happened to you, but reading your latest entry just gave me a flashback. Isn't it funny the things that a recipe will remind you of? Usually it's a taste or a smell that does it to me.

I went to grade school with a guy named Millets. Later he got caught stealing a girls underwear off of the clothesline while doing his morning papers.

[Grant]

I just love a simple chicken dish like this. Perfect for a weeknight. It sounds just fantastic. And now I'm going to have to check out this millet. I'm always looking for a substitute for couscous. Thanks!

[Phoebe]

I just found your blog last week and I love it! I'm going to make this chicken tonight, it sounds great. And it's funny because I've had Suvir Saran's book, "Indian Home Cooking", for a few years but didn't know a thing about him and never really thought about it. Reading this post, though, the name looked familiar so I checked out the links and sure enough, same guy. The book is great, btw, some of my all-time favorites come from it. And it's also funny because I'll be in New York next month, staying not too far from his restaurant. I will definitely have to go there now. So anyway, thanks for not only the recipe but for the restaurant idea too!

[Lisa (Homesick Texan)]

If you don't want to wear gloves, maybe try washing your hands in dairy--either milk or sour cream after cutting chiles. I don't know if it'll get the jalapeno juice completely off your hands, but it does curb the heat in your mouth--it's worth a try. And if that doesn't work then I guess you should probably wear gloves!

[Mary]

This chicken looks oh my god amazing and cheap is always welcome. It's going on the menu for this week for sure. For jalapeños and other hot peppers, here is what this contact lens wearer has devised. First put your pepper on your cutting board. On one hand put the bag the pepper came in or any old plastic bag. In the other hand, take your knife. Hold the pepper with the plastic bag covered hand and do your knife work with the other hand. Only touch the pepper with the plastic bag hand. When finished, turn the plastic bag inside out and throw it away. You can save those latex gloves for other uses.

[Carolyn T]

Oh, this chicken sounds wonderful. Will have to try it.
I just read recently that if you coat your hand (the one holding the chile) with oil, it will really minimize the pain. I have the same problem you do - even being super careful, sometimes my hand(s) sting for 6-8 hours. So, long ago I resorted to wearing gloves.

[Leah]

"Other uses." I am dying.

Man, this sounds good. I can't wait to try it! The millet too. Maybe my stomach won't hate me...

[Meghan]

My trick on jalapenos...put some veg oil on your hands. means you have to be careful cutting (slippery) but the juice doesn't stick at all. or, could you just throw the jalapeno into the food processor whole?

[Nancy]

Is this chicken as good as Nancy Silverton's pasta? because that pasta was out of this world. Perfect on Sunday night, and just as good on Monday with fresh fish off the grill. Okay, on to the chicken.

[Mercedes]

Oo, I don't think I've ever cooked millet before, yet another thing to add to my overflowing pantry (and yes, totally share the muffin sentiment).

[Lydia]

What a lovely, simple chicken dish to add to the repertoire. And I smiled when I read your ode to millet! I do have it in my pantry but don't cook with it often enough. Clearly, that will have to change.

[ann]

yes! a new chicken recipe to rival that lemon one. You've made me a happy camper!
As to jalapenofingers, two words: Latex Gloves. Just run down to duane reade and buy yourself a box of 100. I use them for chiles, beets, raw meat, anything I don't want to touch for fear of messing up my manicure (yeah, right, like I get manicures).

And I have to say another thank you too for the millet recipe. I tried making it once and it was an unmitigated DISASTER. I mean, chuck it in the trash and run round the corner for crap thai food disaster.

[Christine]

That looks de-freakin-licious.

For contact removal, since I'm too lazy to put on gloves, I usually end up using my middle or ring finger, since I usually touch the jalepeno with only my index and thumb. Lazy, sure. But it works.

[Patricia Scarpin]

Luisa,
I just wrote a comment in another blog saying that recipes with chicken that give you this nice brown/golden color are the best in my opinion - nothing worse than pale/white chicken that looks like a piece of Styrofoam.

And your recipe just fits this perfectly!

[Jaime]

Luisa -- I have the second of two buy-one-get-one-free packages of chicken breasts waiting for me in my freezer, now on the road to becoming this! Breasts should work fine, right? I've never tried millet before, but after couscous, rice and quinoa, I'm ready for something new! Thanks for giving me something cheap and healthy to look forward to making this weekend.

[Caroline]

I have also just discovered millet and I am loving it! This recipe looks awesome. I have also discovered the dark meat of chicken and have decided it is tastier.

[stephle]

I also just recently found your blog and can proudly say I spent an obscene amount of time reading and clipping recipes! Great job!

I'm also a contact lens wearer and have the same trouble with peppers :)

To dissolve oils, you need to use a lighter oil.

To dissolve heavy grease/oil stains from clothing you use 'Goo Gone' which is effectively a very light orange oil+petroleum distallate (e.g. oil) solution. Works amazing, truly amazing.

Figured I'd try the same after cutting some jalapenos the other day and after a few drops of Goo Gone + a good hand washing with my kitchen dishsoap, no more red weepy eyes! :)

[Heath]

I don't suppose you'd post the millet muffin recipe, since it's from a book, eh? It sounds delicious.

I can't wait to try the chicken.

[Luisa]

Shauna - yay! I hope you guys liked it. As for your own cooking, that egg sounds ridiculously good (Blogger wouldn't let me comment on your site). I wish I could have had that for lunch today!

Tony - I know exactly what you mean, though I usually get that flashback from smells or music. I didn't expect millet to remind you of a dude who stole girls' underwear! :)

Grant - I'll bet you like millet. I have to say, I think I'm done with couscous altogether. Well, at least the packaged, instant kind (I still haven't figured out how to make the real stuff yet).

Phoebe - welcome! I'm glad you found your way here. I have to take a peek at his book, I'll bet there are some more good things in there. And enjoy the restaurant, I've heard nothing but good things.

Lisa - that sounds so decadent and Cleopatra-ish (didn't she take milk baths?).

Mary - very clever and a little less wasteful than the milk-bath. Thanks for the tip! Hope you enjoy the chicken.

Carolyn - interesting, I'd never heard that about oil. Maybe I'll have to do a test with all these different methods.

Leah - apparently, millet is one of the most easily digestible grains in the world, so perhaps your stomach would be okay with it. I'm sorry you've been having such a hard time, and hope it gets sorted out soon. (It's not celiac, is it?)

Meghan - clearly this oil trick works for a lot of people. Throwing the pepper in whole would be fine, in theory, but you're meant to remove the seeds, so it'd the recipe seriously incendiary. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing for some people!

Nancy - yay! I'm so glad you liked the pappardelle as much as I did. Wasn't that dish just AMAZING? This chicken is pretty great, too. Ben LOVED it. (He's not an anchovy-eater, though, so no pappardelle for him.)

Mercedes - oh, I hear you on the overflowing pantry. Whenever I finally use up some packet or bag, I feel so proud and virtuous. And then I go out and buy something else to take its place... ;)

Lydia - I think it's going to be our staple grain around here for a while. And those muffins are keeping us going all week!

Ann - oh no, that sounds horrible. This millet recipe felt pretty fool proof (though next time I might use just water instead of chicken broth, since I had only the Better than Bouillon stuff and the fakeness of it was a bit much).

Christine - hey, I'm all for lazy solutions, though I'm not as dexterous as you: I always need my thumb and forefinger, too! Ouch.

Patricia - I couldn't agree with you more.

Jaime - the only thing you need to look out for using chicken breasts here is that they cook much faster than thighs do. Which means that the spice paste wouldn't have as much time to cook and complexify (you like my fake words?). However, if your chicken breasts are still on the bone, I bet you'd be fine. Maybe just roast them at a slightly lower temperature, like 350 or 375. And make sure they still have their skin!

Caroline - I couldn't agree with you more, it IS tastier. Ben likes white meat more, but he didn't even say a peep with this dinner, just praised it over and over again. Hooray for chicken thighs! Tastier and cheaper, to boot.

Steph - welcome! I'm so glad you're enjoying all those recipes :) As for Goo Gone, who knew? thanks for the tip!

Heath - I'll scrounge it up tonight and post it in the comments, okay? Check back for it.

[Andrew]

Luisa -

Two chile prep tips:

1) Rub vegetable oil on your hands before working with them, and wash thoroughly when you are done.

2) If you do get capsacin on your fingers (the burn), take a teaspoon of bleach, mix with a cup of warm water, rub your hands with the mixture, then wash it off with soap. The bleach will oxidize the capsacin right away. And don't worry, at this dilution, it is perfectly harmless to your health.

[Michelle]

Yeah, the jalapeno thing is a real killer. I can never remember in time that it's an issue.

[Gemma]

I've only just started reading as well but this sounds like my kind of recipe. I am overdosing on couscous at the moment so will go and pick up some millet to try asap. The chicken looks like a great alternative to my staple of chicken in dijon mustard, lemon juice, and thyme.

[Nancy]

I love finding new ways to prepare chicken, and this one couldn't easier if someone else made it. Thanks for the advice on millet. Can't wait to try it.

[Jennifer]

Wear gloves, it is the only way, the first time I did not wear them, when I went to put my contacts in, I went to the moon!!!! Wear the gloves.

[Rebecca]

Hey, Luisa, the chicken looks great, and congratulations on your interview in Culinate - very nice!

[Autre Pays]

If you go with gloves, go for the purple nitrile gloves. They're powder free (my least favorite feature of standard latex gloves), you don't have to worry about dinner guests with crazy latex sensitivity issues, and you don't have to bleach or oil your hands.

[Jessika]

I made the mistake of reading Amanda Hessers mr. Latte book. She's a gifted chef yes but she came out as totally obnoxious and presented in a very unflattering manner in the book. Now I can't cook anything of hers which is a total shame but what can you do?

[Julie]

Well, if it rates as high as Amanda Hesser's Lemon Chicken on the Ben-o-Meter, I have to try it. It certainly sounds delicious.

I'm also making a mental note here to try out millet.

[Luisa]

Andrew - the bleach tip is interesting, thanks. Who knew?

Michelle - yeah, I know what you mean.

Gemma - welcome! I hope you enjoy the chicken and the millet. Mine's all gone, I need to go find some in bulk now, I think ;)

Nancy - enjoy! The chicken really is easy-peasy.

Jennifer - bu aren't the gloves, like, even LESS biodegradable than plastic bags? Happy Earth Day everyone!

Rebecca - thanks! I'm in good company, I see ;)

Autre Pays - egads, there's that whole other issue to deal with, too. Latex!

Jessika - if you skip that recipe because of your aversion to Amanda's book, you're missing out on a seriously good dinner. I'm just sayin'!

Julie - The Ben-0-Meter, ha. I might have to start using that term!

And Heath, the muffin recipe:

Mollie Katzen's Crunchy Millet Muffins

Nonstick spray
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons baking
powder
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 cup uncooked millet
1/3 cup packed light brown sugar
1 cup milk
1 large egg
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, OR 4 tablespoons canola oil

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly spray 8 standard muffin cups with nonstick spray.

2. Combine the flour, salt, baking powder, and cinnamon in a medium-sized bowl. Add the millet, then crumble in the brown sugar and mix with a fork or your fingers until thoroughly blended.

3. Measure the milk into a 2-cup measure. Add the egg and vanilla, and beat gently with a fork or small whisk until smooth.

4. Slowly pour this mixture, along with the butter or oil, into the dry ingredients. Using a spoon or rubber spatula, stir from the bottom of the bowl until the dry ingredients are all moistened. Don't overmix; a few lumps are okay.

5. Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin cups. Bake in the middle of the oven for 25 minutes, or until lightly browned and a toothpick inserted into the middle of a muffin comes out clean.

6. Remove the pan from the oven, then remove the muffins from the pan and cool them on a rack. Wait at least 30 minutes before serving.

[Nina]

I love millet -- and millet flour. Years ago, I subbed 20% of the AP flour in a Fresh Ginger Cake recipe (from David Lebovitz's Room for Dessert) with millet flour, and no non-millet cake has ever really felt complete since.

That dish looks delicious. I'll have to try it... and the muffins.

[Suvir Saran]

So glad this chicken made you happy and tasted good.
It is easy and reliable.

Have several more such recipes. email me and I can send you a couple. From the new book, it is out October 2nd.

In fact I would love to share my lemon chicken recipe with you, but you must promise not to post it just yet. It is truly delicious, very easy and always provides for many oohs and aahs... even from those that are not always the biggest fans of chicken.

what can I say about Mollie, she is brilliant! Just spent the last few days at the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) in St. Helena, CA with her. We were both presenting at a CIA-Harvard Medical School joint conference on healthy flavors and healthy lives. Mollie has done amazing stuff with veggies, grains, legumes and such... and I am delighted to see her recipe and mine paired together.

The photograph is wonderful too!

Suvir
chef@suvir.com

[Adina]

Just wanted to say that I made the chicken a couple of days ago, and it was, as reported, spectacular.

However, the millet was a little disappointing--mushy, and just not that great. Should I try using more liquid, or keeping it at more than a gentle simmer while cooking? It took closer to 30 minutes than 20 to cook through, so maybe that's what happened.

[Jessika]

Well, Luisa, I guess I will try it despite my aversion. Just for you ;) :).

[Julie]

The Ben-o-meter did not fail -- the chicken was wonderful. I served it over spinach with rice on the side. A good combination.

That's a nice comment from Suvir Saran and I am looking forward to his lemon chicken recipe.

[Tana Butler]

Get thee to Dévi, Luisa, and put yourself into their hands. Chef's Tasting is the way to go.

You might swoon.

[Luisa]

Nina - that's one of my most favorite cakes in the world! I have never tried millet flour in anything, but now of course you've piqued my curiosity... ;)

Suvir - thanks for your kind words, I'm sending you an email now about those recipes! So glad you've got a new book on the way...

Adina - yay, glad you liked the chicken, too. Hmm, I don't know about what happened to your millet. Was it raw millet? I found that letting it sit, covered, after it was done was a really crucial step...

Jessika - yes! Do.

Julie - Ben is loving his new rating system name, I have to tell you ;) I promise to report back on Suvir's lemon chicken, if I get the recipe!

Tana - I am getting myself there post-haste! Full report to follow, eventually. Thanks for the tip!

[Suvir Saran]

never got an email request about the lemon chicken recipe. please email again.
email is chef@suvir.com
happy to send it your way.

suvir

[Joe]

Regarding the jalapeno issue, I've tried the following: first, I wash my hands thoroughly. Second, I "wash" my hands again with rubbing alcohol, paying extra attention to fingertips/nails. Then finally wash again with soap. Seems to work fairly well.

[Margie]

I discovered your site yesterday and am super impressed with your collection of recipes and honest reviews!

I made this chicken last night and my boyfriend was still talking about it after we went to bed. This is definitely going to be made again!! (And I'll be a regular visitor to this site from now on for sure!)

[Kris]

Made this last night & it was deeeelish. Didn't have coriander seeds but did include the cumin. Next time I may make double the marinade to have some extra to spoon over the cous cous/rice/whatever - My roommate and I were damn near licking the pan! :p Thanks for the easy, cheap, quick recipe!

[Chris Huck]

Made it, loved it, will do it again and again. Thanks for posting!! Oh- and shredded leftovers made great tacos too!

[Meliss]

My family of six loved this recipe! I have it in the queue again for this week!

[Rumela]

Thanks for the Spicy Roasted Chicken Thighs dish. Last summer I ate them at a party and has been looking for an authentic recipe ever since. Now I will be able to make them myself. Thanks again.

[sadforyou]

you people have no lives...... find a friend...

[Thin Thighs]

I have to say, I can literally taste that recipe in my mouth just reading it!
I just love chicken recipes... they're cheap and they're so easy to add flavor to.
And i'm sure this would taste great with healthy chicken breasts as well!

----------------
Kelly
Live healthy and fit!

[merritt]

I am about to make this recipe for dinner tonight and I wanted to share my tip for dealing with hot peppers. I know the lasting pain of jalapenos very well, after an unfortunate chili making day ended with a night of sleeping with my hand in a mug of milk.

I usually use the plastic bag the chili peppers came in as a loose, cheap glove to protect my fingers. It gives at least one recycled use to the ubiquitous produce bags I come home with.

[Matt]

I know your pain when it comes to the pepper problem. I work with hot peppers with 75% of my dishes and my competition BBQ sauces. You have to be careful not to dig at the pepper with your fingernails! After you have handled the peppers, washing your hands with a Kosher salt or any other course salt will pull and scrub the heat from your fingers. It has the same effect on onions. I use this when handling habaneros and wash additionally with soap and a pumas stone. Good luck!

[Alice]

not a fan, threw most of it out