Sam Sifton's Sesame Noodles

I seem to be a woman of empty threats. Because even though I made it seem like one more day without a plate of Sesame Noodles would be a dire one indeed, I actually survived for four more days thereafter. (Is that the sound of a thousand people falling over in shock at the news? I know, unbelievable.) But after four days of fruitless searching, and just as many grocery stores, I decided this morning that I'd had enough. I got in the subway to go down to the source itself, Chinatown, to finally lay my hands on an apparently elusive creation, the fresh Chinese egg noodle. What I got in return was something far, far greater.

Isn't that exciting?

But first things first. At the Dynasty Supermarket on the corner of Elizabeth and Hester, I found my noodles. Well, actually, not really. But close enough. You see, the refrigerated fresh noodle section was crammed with all sorts of noodles, but infuriatingly, none of them were labeled in a manner that would appease the little Type A in me. There were noodles galore, for sure, "Shanghai" noodles and "shrimp" noodles and "vegetable" noodles and, maddeningly, "plain" noodles. Some of them had eggs in them, some didn't. But were there any labeled "egg" noodles? No.

The closest I got was with a bag of "lo mein" noodles that had eggs in them, but were far, far skinnier than the 1/8th of an inch Sam Sifton called for. Noodles in his size were only available eggless. I mulled my choices for far too long, decided the world would not end if I made Sesame Noodles with 1/16-inch wide noodles and got on with my day (and thank goodness I did, because otherwise I think I might still be there, dithering away).

(And here I have to stop and just quickly mention the whopping 98 cents I paid for that pound of egg noodles. 98 cents! When will fresh Italian egg pasta ever be that cheap?)

As I made my way up Elizabeth, I kept my eyes peeled for a vegetable stand. Something about the early morning air and the atmosphere of hungry shoppers and pushy sellers had me feeling adventurous. Actually, it's how I usually feel when I'm in Chinatown, like I'm standing on the precipice of some huge, unknowable mountain of information about really, really good food that I simply can't decipher, but very much want to. Usually I satiate my curiosity by eating at a Chinese restaurant, but that never really solves the problem. So today, instead of going home and buying wilted broccoli from D'Agostino's, I decided I'd buy some real Chinese vegetables and cook them myself.

The vegetable stand I stopped at had several rows of good-looking greens, baby bok choy and green beans being the only ones I recognized. I pointed to what I thought was Chinese broccoli and asked the grocer to confirm what I was buying. I might as well have been speaking in, well, English.

She pointed to the price and nodded nicely. I tried asking her a few more times, even prodding her with the word for Chinese broccoli (gai lan), but this received no reaction. Just a few more points to the sign, decidedly less friendly by the minute. So I acquiesced and bought a pound of the stuff. (For $1.60! And this after I spent $5.99 per pound on Mr. Spear asparagus at Balducci's on Friday.) (I know, I know, I always say I'll never go back there and then I do. What can I say, I'm a woman of low moral fiber.) The grocer pointed me towards another vendor working there as I pocketed my change, as if to say "that guy, he'll know what you're trying to say, now move along, there are people who actually make sense waiting to order".

The other grocer did seem to understand that I was asking what the vegetable I'd just purchased was called and kept repeating "toi sam" (spelling, obviously, not guaranteed by yours truly) over and over, nodding. So I assumed I'd bought a pound of toi sam. Delicious! But at home, the internet produced precious little information on toi sam and insisted on telling me that the vegetable I'd purchased was indeed none other than Chinese broccoli.

What was the point of relaying every step of my purchase to you? I was trying, I suppose, to make you realize how exhilarating the whole exchange was. It felt like I was navigating that aforementioned huge mountain of knowledge with a dinky, little, rudderless boat full of enthusiasm and good intentions but very little else. I wish I had a guide to bring with me to Chinatown every day, to slowly and carefully teach me about all the vegetables on display at those overwhelming sidewalk stands: how to cut them, how to prepare them, how to serve them. (Don't even get me started on the fruit offerings or fish.) What does serving bok choy with mushrooms signify? Will I ever have the courage to purchase loofah or bitter melon? Why do Chinese scallions come in so many different forms?

I guess that Chinese food just totally bewitches me (thank God for Fuchsia Dunlop, who has at least given me some insight into Sichuan food, though that seemed totally indequate today). But before I go all starry-eyed and make Fuchsia adopt me to teach me the rest of what I have to learn, let me quickly tell you about the food I actually cooked.

First, Sam Sifton's sesame noodles. Which are fine, I guess, though I think the dish's appeal lies more in the sensuous mouthfeel of dressed noodles than in the taste. You mix together a pungent sauce of various oils and vinegars and sauces and nut butters, throw in some grated ginger, minced garlic and whisk it all into a dark sludge. The egg noodles are boiled briefly, then rinsed in cold water, dressed with the sauce and topped with chopped peanuts. They're spicy, to be sure, and relatively nuanced - zesty might be the word I'm looking for. But what I really liked was the texture - chewy and silky and slithery and cool, with little bits of peanut adding a pleasing crunch here and there.

The real revelation of the day, though? Was the Chinese broccoli. Oh yes. I made this recipe and have decided that it might be my new favorite thing in the world to eat. It is so good and so totally, entirely easy. Which made my day even more. Not only did I buy my first Chinese vegetable (well, I have bought baby bok choy before, but that was at Whole Foods and so doesn't count) today, but I made a dish so delicious it tasted like the vegetables do at my favorite Chinese restaurants. Yes, that good! I'm speechless with joy.

Ben and I ate our noodles dutifully, but then set upon the savory-sweet Chinese broccoli like a pair of starving urchins. I am alternately proud and embarrassed to admit that we finished the entire pound in one sitting. How could I have been so short-sighted? Next time, two pounds, at least.

I think this means that I have to get myself to Chinatown more often. I need to explore and discover and learn. If Americanized sesame noodles brought me to Hong Kong-style gai lan, then who knows what the future will bring? I can't wait to find out.

Takeout-Style Sesame Noodles
Serves 4

1 pound Chinese egg noodles (1/8-inch-thick), frozen or (preferably) fresh, available in Asian markets
2 tablespoons sesame oil, plus a splash
3½ tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons Chinese rice vinegar
2 tablespoons Chinese sesame paste
1 tablespoon smooth peanut butter
1 teaspoon sugar (the original recipe calls for 1 tablespoon)
1 tablespoon finely grated ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons chili-garlic paste, or to taste
¼ cup chopped roasted peanuts.

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add noodles and cook until barely tender, about 5 minutes; they should retain a hint of chewiness. Drain, rinse with cold water, drain again and toss with a splash of sesame oil.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons sesame oil, the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame paste, peanut butter, sugar, ginger, garlic and chili-garlic paste.

3. Pour the sauce over the noodles and toss. Transfer to a serving bowl, and garnish with cucumber and peanuts.  

Comments

[RA]

Ooh, I love love love Chinese broccoli. Whenever my mother and/or grandmother dragged me through the markets in Chinatown, I sort of glazed over and just followed along. They had the added advantage of actually speaking the language. But man! I wish I had paid attention and retained a thing or two. Also, your bargain prices are certainly something to be proud of.

[Leah]

YAY!

[Nancy]

You may be a person of low moral fiber but at least you are getting your fiber! Once again, a wonderful dinner to try. Thanks.

[Mary]

I love Chinese broccoli and those noodles sound like a superlative version of their kind. I made the braised fennel today as part of an Easter feast and everyone raved over them. Thanks!

[Mary]

I forgot to say, isn't Fuchsia the coolest name? Well, Luisa is cool, too. I guess I've just always been sad about having a boring name.

[Abby]

Sesame noodles are one of my most favorite things - followed closely by broccoli. This was the perfect post to me!

[Molly]

Oooh YES! Gai lan! I wish I'd been there to fight you and Ben for the last forkful. Luckily for all of us, though, I've got some gai lan in my fridge here in Seattle, so I'll just content myself with whipping up a batch tomorrow. Thanks for pointing me to that Splendid Table recipe! xo

[Mercedes]

Dynasty supermarket rules- the frozen char siu bao, perfect freezer items for late nights coming home hungry, the only place a southern girl can find fresh boiled peanuts, and the cheapo prices.
Basically, Chinatown rules. When I moved back to the US from Beirut several years ago, I used to go to Chinatown often simply because I missed that feeling of being in another culture. Now, I don't go nearly as often as I should, but whenever I do, I stock up on fresh vegetables. It's my go-to place for seafood too (blue crabs! razor clams! sardines!)
Now, I must go so I can try that broc. recipe.

[Stephanie]

Sesame noodles ... divine ... on your next Chinatown adventure you should seek out some Sichuan peppercorns and give Sichuan dan dan noodles a go ... you might like them too.

[Lydia]

Wow! I love love love Chinese broccoli, and while I'm crazy about sesame noodles, it's the veggies in my Asian market that drive me wild. The prices are unbelieveable, the veggies fresh, the noodles unattainable anywhere else (and spaghetti is a poor substitute for fresh Chinese noodles). I even buy American condiments like Tabasco at my Asian grocer, for one-third less than at the local supermarket. Lovely recipes!

[ann]

You've reminded me (as if I could forget) that I simply MUST go explore our new Chinatown soon. We walked through it a little bit a few weekends ago, and it seemed an awful lot like Manhattan Chinatown; crowded, busy, overwhelming, noisy, vibrant, amazing, but I haven't gotten further than knowing there's a guy that makes handpulled noodles that I have GOT to try soon.
Thanks for the goose Luisa!

And if you're really serious about needing a Chinatown guide I'll loan you my pushy friend Vic for a day ;-)

[Luisa]

RA - oh, but you can't fault your young self. That's always the way kids are, no? Bored by the stuff that they'll end up being fascinated by.

Leah - I delivered! :)

Nancy - indeed! I like that conclusion. Perhaps a new tagline?

Mary - I'm so glad the fennel was a hit! Try the broccoli next, you won't be disappointed (though, the noodles, eh, whatever). And YES, Fuchsia is definitely one of the coolest names out there! Makes Luisa look downright normal (which, I guess, it is, though I hated it as a kid).

Abby - well, thank you!

Molly - we would have happily shared with you! Man, I'm so bummed there aren't any leftovers.

Mercedes - see, that's genius. I was far too intimidated by the seafood counter to even get close to it. I just scurried past to go to the noodles. Who knew what I was missing?

Stephanie - I actually have some Sichuan peppercorns at home, but no spice grinder and no mortar & pestle (I know, who AM I?) so I usually just stare at the peppercorns with longing and then choose a different recipe. I'm an idiot.

Lydia - that's pretty smart. I need to motivate to get down there more regularly, because I think I'd cut some of my food budget in half (though, the start of my CSA box in a few months will help then too. Precious few Asian vegetables in there, though).

Ann - go explore! And tell us about it! And if the hand-pulled noodle guy is anything like Super Taste noodles that Ganda wrote about a few months ago, you're in for a real treat. Borrowing pushy Vic sounds like a great idea! :)

[Meghan]

Luisa - your post reminded me of living in Budapest and speaking almost no Hungarian and trying to order food from the butcher. I almost never knew what I was eating, but boy, it made grocery shopping an adventure! I envy that you get to have that chance without even leaving the city you live in.

[lauren]

Choy sum? Is that what you mean?
Whatever you made, it looks utterly delicious. Thanks for the recipe link.

[Melissa]

I was laughing out loud as I read this - that sounds like me just about every time I venture into one of the Chinese, Indian or Polish shops around here. At least it all worked out in the end - I am so bookmarking both recipes!

[Lisa (Homesick Texan)]

I feel the same way about Chinatown, it's like I've slipped into an alternative universe. But what an excellent adventure it always is!

[Julie]

Any account that begins with someone getting on a subway and heading off to Chinatown leaves me feeling oh, so envious. If only!

My shopping for asian foodstuffs usually involves getting in a car and going to some suburban strip mall, but that feeling of "standing on the precipice of some huge, unknowable mountain of information" is just the same.

[hnahk]

the vendor probably meant "choi sum" (cantonese) which literally translates to "vegetable heart" or heart of a vegetable, which is the most tender part of the "gai lan" (i think). the first lady probably did not understand cantonese, as "gai lan" is from the cantonese dialect. thanks for recipe, your sesame noodles look delish!

[Luisa]

Meghan - Oh, I can imagine that in Hungary! I remember being in Budapest (and then in Prague) and realizing that it was the first time in my entire life I'd ever been anywhere where I couldn't understand even 10% of what was going on.

Lauren - hmmm, I have no idea. One internet search for choy sum resulted in bok choy. So that's definitely not it. But maybe that webpage was wrong? Thanks for helping me guess!

Melissa - strangers in a strange land! :) Bookmark away, but especially the greens.

Lisa - excellent indeed. I am just itching to get back there. Though I did get some broccoli rabe at the Greenmarket today (greens! unbelievable! no more turnips!), they seemed so ho-hum compared.

Julie - from what I hear, the outer borough Chinatowns here are much like your experience...a lot of delectable stuff to be found in the most unassuming places.

hnahk - I've gone and done another search for choi sum, which turned up some images that look sort of like what I bought. But, then again, not really. So, are you saying that choi sum is PART of gai lan? More and more interesting... Thank you!

[Tony]

Luisa,

I read your blog on a regular basis and really enjoy it. I've never picked up this book, but it might help out, the reviews I've seen have been good.

http://www.amazon.com/Asian-Grocery-Store-Demystified-Guides/dp/1580630456

I'm living in Germany now. There are some Asian groceries around Wiesbaden, but until my stuff gets here and I find an apartment I'll just be window shopping there.

[Christine]

Through college I shopped at an Asian supermarket because back then (geez, 6 years ago) as a fish eating vegetarian I averaged $15 a week on groceries. $15! These days (for two of us) it's about $100.

Now I have a craving for chinese broccoli...maybe I should do more shopping there these days.

[Leah]

You totally did! In fine form, as always. It's just too bad you don't deliver door-to-door... =)

[Rebecca]

The noodles sound superb, but you really have me craving the broccoli, especially since all I've eaten today has been pie and cake (leftover desserts from Easter dinner). It looks so healthy and delicious!

[sue]

hi! i've been a reader for a bit, but saying hello for the first time today!
if you liek the whole "choy" (leafy veggies) family of chinese vegetables, then i think you'd really like taiwanese baby bok choy. its stems are milky white instead of pale green and its leaves are a much darker green than reg. bok choy. super tender and delicious!

[Jessica "Su Good Sweets"]

Chinatown is ridiculously cheap, but sometimes I feel bad because there's no way of knowing if the vegetables or meat are "green." You know, like wild salmon instead of farmed. Local apples instead of waxed ones from far away. (Actually, I've purchased some sub par produce but at that price, you're not going to get a better deal.)

About your comment on David's blog on making ice cream without an ice cream maker, you can "still freeze" it and then break it up with a food processor. I outlined the basic process on my blog: www.sugoodsweets.com/blog/2006/06/whipped-icecream. Other recipes that work are chocolate sorbet (www.sugoodsweets.com/blog/2006/09/chocolate-sorbet), grape sorbet (www.sugoodsweets.com/blog/2006/08/grapesorbet)and chocolate gelato (www.travelerslunchbox.com/journal/2005/7/6/chocolate-vs-chocolate-the-ultimate-showdown.html).

[Luisa]

Tony - thanks for the book tip, something like that could be super helpful. And you're probably best off cooking Asian food yourself when in Wiesbaden - my memories of Asian restaurants in Germany are not good.

Christine - don't even get me started on the price of food. I can't wait for my CSA to start so I can go back to spending seven dollars a week on vegetables for the two of us.

Rebecca - sometimes a big old pile of greens just is the most delectable thing out there, right? Who needs cake? :)

Sue - hello! Thank you for delurking. I will have to keep an eye out for that baby bok choy - it sounds delicious. More to discover!

Jessica - I had the same thought on Sunday. The greens MUST be coming from far away if our Greenmarkets are totally devoid of the stuff...Or? I wonder. Thanks for your ice cream links.

[Fiona]

Luisa,

New reader to your site and quickly becoming a major fan. I'm so excited you went to Chinatown! Being a native Chinese New Yorker and constantly dragging friends down to Chinatown, I can see how intimidating it can be! But so exciting (and cheap) as well! Sounds and looks like you bought choi sum, which is quite different from gai lan. Choi sum usually has much thinner and softer stems than gai lan, and I find the flavor much sweeter as well. Personally, I'd eat choi sum over gai lan any day. If you'd really like to learn more about Cantonese food, which is what the Manhattan Chinatown specializes in, I highly recommend Grace Young's "Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen." For those stepping out into Cantonese ingredients, the back of the book has photos (!) of fresh, dried, canned, jarred, and bagged ingredients! For a Chinese girl who can't read Chinese, those last few pages of the book are a godsend!

[Michael]

You gave us the recipe for the noodles, with which you were only moderately impressed, but your chinese broccoli recipe did not follow, and it is what you were most excited with, and with which we the readers were made to be most excited by!!! Sauteed chinese broccoli is one of my all time favorites, but your recipes are always top-notch, so I would love to see how you made it, especially because of how much you raved!

[Luisa]

Michael - the recipe is embedded in a link in the 3rd to last paragraph...

[kim]

Chinese broccoli is my favorite greens. I like to sautee them in some garlic and red chili flakes. I especially enjoy the crunch of the thick, robust stalks.