Flying through a Nor'easter into New York anytime soon? I don't recommend it. Three hours later, and I'm still eyeing my airsickness bag (I took it with me) and quaking in my boots. Good lord, what an end to the weekend.
Through the worst of it, though, when the plane was pitching and careening through the skies, I found myself having the oddest of comforting thoughts. A plane carrying Anne Willan, Madhur Jaffrey and Marcus Samuelsson (if it wasn't him, it was his double) couldn't possibly crash, could it? No, of course it couldn't. In fact, I should consider myself lucky to be on the same plane. Perhaps it was the ghost of Antoine Careme or Brillat-Savarin or just some very good piloting, but we landed safely and soundly and it was all I could do to keep myself from kissing the ground in some faintly hysterical, mad show of gratitude.
But back to the matter at hand. I attended the conference for work, let's just get that out of the way right now. I didn't leave Ben alone on his 30th birthday because I'm a cold-hearted wretch, and yes, those were brownies I made as an apologetic, pre-birthday treat. (The proper cake comes later, but shhhhh! Please hope with me that Ben continues to never read this site.)
A big thanks to all those readers who made valiant guesses as to what that strange brown crater was, but only one of you got it right: Mary from Ceres and Bacchus. Congratulations, Mary! The brownies were Dorie Greenspan's French Chocolate Brownies, from her fantastic book, Baking: From My Home to Yours (which was, in my humble opinion, totally robbed when it didn't win this weekend. Hrmph.). Dorie told me in Chicago that Julia Moskin left out the rum-soaked raisins in her original recipe, so if you want to try that one, head on over to Dorie's site.
Ben loves a cakey brownie - fudgy and dense isn't really his thing - and these were perfect. That lovely, caramel-colored, crackling top shattered gently under the knife, and a light, moist, chocolate-y brownie that almost melted in our mouths waited underneath. I packed a pretty little tin full of them for Ben, and then froze a few more for, well, post-flight snacking. I think I deserve a small reward after surviving Flight 687.
I didn't get a chance to see Chicago at all, though I did have a totally transcendant meal at Blackbird with my colleagues. Not only was the food delicious - really, really (think velvety split-pea soup with little shreds of peekytoe crab, slivered onion and crunchy breadcrumbs), but the place itself was just so groovy and...for lack of a better word, Chicago-y. I know, my powers of description are truly world-class today.
And if there's anything I learned this weekend, it's that American country ham not only holds a candle to the Italian stuff, it sometimes blows it right out of the water (hold that metaphor!). Can you imagine that? Thanks to Ari Weinzweig, I now know about Broadbent's 15-month old country ham and La Quercia's 12-month Niman Ranch-sourced ham. Which makes me wonder: do I really need to buy my prosciutto from clear across the ocean when there's good stuff right here at home?
(My notes on Broadbent's: melt-in-your-mouth, mild, smoky, tender...)
Now that I am home, I think I need to go unpack, pay attention to my 30-year old boyfriend, and eat a brownie. While listening to the cozy rain outside. And thinking of the pale blue edge of Lake Michigan I saw from the air this morning. And planning a return trip. Yes, I'll be back, Chicago!
Ta.
Sounds like you had a great time- well except for the plane. I got to sit on a flooded Amtrak train in NJ.
Hooray for country ham. I grew up with the stuff, and my uncle once told me when he came to the north for college, he missed it, and the only substitute he could find was proscieutto. It seems the tables are turning!
Posted by: Mercedes | April 15, 2007 at 10:34 PM
Good that you made it home! My boyfriend flew into BWI during a hurricane once. The flight was OK except for the last half hour. When they landed everyone clapped.
Posted by: Sara G | April 15, 2007 at 11:11 PM
Sounds like a great weekend! Except for the return, in the same nor'easter which has robbed us of power for the past eight hours. (What does it say that I'm blogging on the last remnants of battery power???) Happy birthday to Ben!
Posted by: Lydia | April 16, 2007 at 07:33 AM
So sorry you had to go through the nor'easter on a plane. I had a mere 117 miles of driving yesterday that took me 3 1/2 hours - snow, sleet, rain, ice and very white knuckles. Then later I had to turn around and make it back home. It was for the love cheese, though, so worth it. I love Chicago and I *heart* Ari Weinzweig. My brother used to work at Zingerman's as a baker. Oh the bread we used to have! He would bring me 100 lb. flour sacks full to the brim with the less than perfect baguettes, slightly burnt pains de campagne (which is how I like it) and the smushed pastries. The good news for me is that I'm moving soon back to Ann Arbor. Number one criteria in house hunting - proximity to Zing's deli. Local rules! Thanks for the contest, I'm pleased to have won. I hope the brownies were good.
Posted by: Mary | April 16, 2007 at 07:36 AM
Welcome home! Man I'm glad you made it, the storm was out of control!
did you speak to Madhur at all?
I thought of her this weekend when I was making curry-scented cookies. I was wondering if she would approve.
Happy Birthday to Ben! It's a wonderful club (the 30s that is)
Posted by: ann | April 16, 2007 at 10:57 AM
Yay Blackbird! So yummy (at least, the brunch is... I imagine everything else would be too). And happy birthday to Ben!
Posted by: Leah | April 16, 2007 at 02:15 PM
Mercedes - I love that story about your uncle!
Sara - That sounds similarly hideous. I hope I never have to do that again!
Lydia - Ben thanks you! You are one dedicated blogger, lady. Hope the power is back on now...
Mary - oh, to be related to a generous baker! :) That sounds like a nice set-up. The brownies are now all gone - the rest were defrosted and eaten for dessert yesterday. Hope you enjoy your "prize"! :)
Ann - I didn't, I just very subtly double-taked (double-took?). Your curry cookies sounded totally amazing and so interesting, too. I'd bet she'd approve!
Leah - yes yes, the dinner is yummy, too. And what a cool place. I really liked it.
Posted by: Luisa | April 17, 2007 at 11:25 AM
Glad you are back home safe and sound. I once was in a pitching plane to Miami and now must practice my best yoga breathing each and every time a plane bumps an inch. If you liked Blackbird, you will love Avec - a must try next time you are back here!
Posted by: Caroline | April 18, 2007 at 12:16 PM
hi-I read your blog occasionally. And quietly.
I was reading about the highlights of the conference in the newspaper on Wednesday. Sounded fascinating.
My mouth is watering thinking about Blackbird. I want to go there again sometime, but it isn't a place to go frequently.
Posted by: Mar | April 20, 2007 at 07:07 PM