Amanda Hesser's Butternut Squash Curry

You know, after yet another birthday and yet another turn of the new year, thoughts turn - reliably - to uncomfortable questions such as "why exactly don't I own any real estate yet?" and "what exactly do I do to end up with less savings than any of my peers who choose to live outside of this city?" and "how exactly is living paycheck-to-paycheck in New York City affecting my future and the future of my unborn children (who actually belong in an entirely separate conversation that I am doing my best to ignore, thank you very much)?" and furthermore, "is it, this fantastic city, worth feeling sometimes as though I am forfeiting security and stability for the continued, vibrant experience of being a New Yorker?"

I'm sure I don't have to explain that the whole point of uncomfortable questions is that you often know the answers to them, you just don't feel like accepting them. But so that this doesn't devolve into some kind of Luisa confessional, I'll get to the original point I was attempting to make, namely that all of these questions end up being beside the point when you consider the glorious temple that is Kalustyan's and the fact that living in New York is precisely what allows you, on a whim, to stroll there after work so that you can pick up a bag of fresh curry leaves, a sack of patna rice, herb drying tips from the kindest shopkeeper around, and a renewed sense that living in New York is pretty fantastic no matter how much anxiety it induces.

Did your ears prick up around curry leaves? This was my first time encountering them and I can say unequivocally that, with one whiff of their nutty, complex fragrance (that has absolutely nothing to do with curry powder), I have been bewitched. You will, too! And don't worry, Kalustyan's has mail-order service.

The recipe is a few years old and comes from a piece by Amanda Hesser on gussying up Thanksgiving leftovers in the New York Times Magazine. Trust me when I tell you that this recipe should not be put aside until Thanksgiving rolls around. Go out now to buy yourself a butternut squash and make this right away. I cut my squash in half and then again lengthwise before roasting it in a 400 degree oven for 40 minutes. The orange flesh caramelized and intensified its sweetness. I mashed up the hot squash with softly cooked onions and spices before folding in an alluring melange of mustard seeds, the aforementioned curry leaves, a little red chili or two, and a handful of unsweetened coconut flakes.

The squash is lusty and sweet, delicately floral from the curry leaves, coconut, and mustard seeds, pleasingly hot with pepper, and entirely difficult to stop eating. Luckily for those of us with resolutions, there's no reason to. With a pile of fluffy patna rice and some steamed broccoli for good measure (an ethnically dubious food pairing, I know), this is pretty virtuous stuff. It also seems to cure hysteria about financial worries and advancing age. Maybe it's those curry leaves?

Speaking of which, I've got quite a few left over and no recipes for them of which to speak. Dear readers, any suggestions?

Butternut Squash Curry
Serves 4

3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
3/4 teaspoon lightly crushed cumin (I used 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin)
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
3 cups baked, braised or mashed butternut squash
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 red chili
10 curry leaves
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut
Salt

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a medium saucepan. Add the onion and cook over medium-low heat until softened. Stir in the turmeric, cumin and cayenne and cook for 1 minute. Fold in the squash and warm gently.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a small saute pan. Add the mustard seeds, chili and curry leaves. When the seeds begin to pop, stir in the coconut off the heat. Fold into the squash, and season with salt.

Comments

[Sarah]

I'm in the midst of applying to graduate schools both in and out of NYC, trying my best to ignore the possibility that I might have to move for these studies. Thanks for reminding me of all that NY offers in such a compelling way. It's hard to argue with the lure of Kalustyans! I'll be sure to try the recipe once all my apps are in the mail.

[Tanna]

I am so in love with butternut squash! This looks really excellent.

[Kalyn]

Wonderful photo of this dish. I read somewhere that curry leaves are often used as a flavoring for rice (just add to the water) but I haven't tried it.

[Lydia]

I haven't cooked with curry leaves....but I remember reading somewhere that you can freeze them.

[foodmomiac]

Oh, I love Kalustyans. We used to live just a couple of blocks away, and I miss it! Michael used to love going there for a lunch of mujadara, wrapped in very thin pita.
Regarding the curry leaves, I searched Recipe Gullet on eGullet, and there were 15 recipes there!
http://tinyurl.com/y776yu

[L D]

That looks great! I make a similar recipe with butternut squash adding ginger and aamchur (dried mango powder). Here is a very delicious recipe for Indian style tomato broth/soup to use up your curry leaves. Recipe comes from Mridula Baljekar's 30-Minute Indian.

TOMATO SOUP

oil - 2 tablespoons
garlic cloves, crushed - 2
ginger, peeled and grated - 1/2 inch cube
dried red chile, chopped - 1
black peppercorns - 1/4 teaspoon
curry leaves - 12 to 14
tomatoes, chopped - 2 1/2 cups (or 28 oz. can with juice)
hot water - 1 1/4 cups
salt - 1 teaspoon
sugar - 1 teaspoon
cilantro, chopped - 1 tablespoon

In a saucepan, heat the oil and cook the garlic, ginger, chilies, peppercorns and curry leaves for a few seconds. Don't let the garlic and ginger burn.

Add the tomatoes and pour in the hot water.

Add the salt and sugar and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Then let it cool slightly before blending it in a blender and straining it. (Note: I prefer to pass soup through food mill instead)

Return the soup to the saucepan and reheat gently. Stir in the cilantro leaves and serve.

[Amanda B.]

I'm a fan of putting the curry leaves under the skin of roasted chicken. Also, besides curries? It adds a beautiful flavor to marinades, especially when paired with mint.

[Leah]

My only suggestion is for more Luisa confessionals, please. If only because they're so much more enjoyable than addressing my own different but no less uncomfortable questions! Can't wait to try this squash and most of the other recipes of the past few weeks, especially since those Finnish meatballs were such a huge hit on NYE...

[lobstersquad]

Those unborn children, they just creep into conversations, don´t they? irritating. And only imagine, they may turn out to be picky eaters (one of my favourite nightmares)

[Anita]

You asked and therefore:

Take your left-over patna rice and mix in some beaten plain yoghurt and salt. Make a 'tempering' - 2 t of hot oil into which go the same mustard seeds, broken whole red chilies, a chopped green chili, a little grated ginger, and the wonderous curry leaves. Pour over the rice, and mix. Let stand for half hour or more.

And tell me if you don't make it again and again and again!

Curry leaves are used, de-rigueur, in South Indian cuisine. I think it is that ingredient which makes converts out of the rest of us!

[Julie]

Anita's suggestion sounds so good I might have to go buy some curry leaves just to make that, as well as the squash. Curry leaves are also really lovely in dals, and in some chutneys as well. Happy New Year to you, Luisa!

[Homesick Texan]

After being in NYC over 11 years, I understand your angst. I've thought about leaving many times, but there's just something about this place that keeps me from living anywhere else.

I've used curry leaves in lamb dishes and they make carrots taste divine. It shouldn't be difficult to put your leftovers to good use!

[ann]

Amazing... I've been conducting a similar inner monologue about marriage, real estate and my job (no kids, I must have a dog first).

Glad you found the curry leaves. I've still got some left and this sounds like a wonderful way to use them up!
Happy New Year :-)

[Emily]

Yes I get anxious about my seemingly stunted life in New York (living with roommates, don't own real estate, unclear about the direction of my career), but the other day my married friend who will likely move to Colorado in May made me promise to never leave New York so she could keep visiting. They're jealous of us too. Oh and I can't wait to try this recipe. Yum!

[Luisa]

Sarah - well, good luck to you. I think it's brave to contemplate moving. I'm far too much of a chicken. Instead I just allude to it on my blog and change the subject to curry leaves! :)

Tanna - it is good stuff, isn't it?

Kalyn - thank you. That sounds like a nice idea, sort of like adding green cardamom pods to rice while it cooks. I'll have to try that with the curry leaves instead.

Lydia - the shopkeeper at Kalustyan's says freezing them is okay, but first you have to let them dry out a bit in your kitchen, otherwise they don't freeze well and you might as well throw them out.

Danielle - the prepared food upstairs at Kalustyan's is sooo tasty! I never had their mujadra, though. Thanks for the eGullet link.

LD - that looks delicious! Thank you so much for the recipe. I'll have to try it very soon. I've never heard of that author...

Amanda - what a fantastic idea! I'm definitely going to try that soon. Ben loves roast chicken and I'm always looking for ways to mix up the preparation a bit.

Leah - yay, I'm so glad the Finnish meatballs were a hit for you! It's hard to go wrong with them. And hee, isn't it funny how other people's worries are so much easier to think about than your own? I know that feeling ;)

Ximena - hee, you just made me giggle. What a fantastically awful thing to contemplate! Those crazy, non-existent children with their non-existent issues...

Anita - oh my goodness. THIS sounds amazing. Wow - I think this is going on the dinner table tonight. Fantastic! Where did you learn this recipe? South Indian food is my favorite of Indian foods.

Julie - Happy New Year to you too! I am with you on Anita's suggestion - and am strangely hungry already at 10:04 am. Curious.

Lisa - maybe it just comes with the territory, huh? :) Carrots with curry leaves! I like this idea. Will have to explore further...

Ann - thanks to you, I knew where to look for those lovely leaves. Glad to hear I'm not alone with my inner mumblings. And a dog! Yes, must have a dog! Sigh.

Emily - it's like single people being jealous of married people, and married people being jealous of single people. The grass is always greener, right?

[Leah]

Anita's recipe DOES sound amazing. So I'm going to go ahead and ask what may be two really dumb questions: are broken whole red chilies dried (like a chile de arbol)? And does it matter what type of fresh green chile one uses? Thank you!

[Grant]

Even though I live in LA I so relate to this whole property envy thing. I want to stay in my neighborhood but question if I will ever be able to afford a cute craftsman bungalow with a lemon tree in the yard. Sigh. Oh and the squash sounds amazing. I love all of those things in it.

[Marc]

Curry leaves are a great flavor, and I'm lucky to have several nearby sources for fresh ones.
Check out Mahanandi (http://www.nandyala.org/mahanandi/) and her Indian food blogs list for some more curry leaf ideas. Her lemon rice looks tasty and uses the leaves in the tempering oil.

The cookbook "Dakshin" by Chandra Padmanabhan is a good introduction to South Indian cooking. Just about every recipe uses curry leaves.

Last month, I had the hope that the curry leaves I purchased from the grocery store could be made to root, and then I could plant them in a pot to create a year-round source of curry leaves. I put a few stems in a glass of water, but one month later, there are no roots sprouting from the curry leaf branches. However, the leaves are still fresh and green, so I'd recommend putting some of your curry leaf branches in water to keep them fresh.

You might enjoy one of my early posts about the curry leaves and the history of the word "curry" (http://marcsala.blogspot.com/2005/09/curry-leaves.html)

[Anita]

Hi again. I used to have what is, very simply, called 'curd rice', curd being the preferred British word for yoghurt, in my class mates lunch box in high school!
And to answer Leah's question: for the green chili you may use a sliced jalapeno, and the red chili is the dried kind. Pick one that is hot - you can then control (increase) the heat of the curd-rice by gently squeezing it to release some really hot oil into the rice! This is usually served with a very hot mango or lime pickle (the Indian kind, naturally) at the end of a meal, yoghurt is believed to be good for digestion. But I have had an entire meal of it every time I prepare it. Also a great way to finish left over rice.
This dish is really as amazing as it is simple.
Do let me know, if you make it (and like it, of course!
BTW, this is an absolutely authentic South Indian recipe.

[Luisa]

Leah - not a dumb question at all! Luckily Anita checked back in and answered...

Grant - Good to know Angelenos feel the same pain. I wish there were bungalows and lemon trees to pine after here! Instead, we've got grimy blocks and 300 square foot "1-bedrooms". Sigh.

Marc - wow, that's a lot of information. Thank you so much! Looking forward to checking all those links out. Delicious.

Anita - Thanks for checking back. I promise to let you know when I make this! Which will be soon.

[deb]

The Kalustyan's Remedy! I love it. Speaking of Kalustyan-ian remedies, it's been so darned warm this winter, I haven't once gotten my mujardarra fix from over there, and now miss it very much.

As for the curry leaves, I am intrigued -- curry powders don't really interest me -- and will have to pick some up.

[Jessika]

Since curry is a spice mix I've always found the word curry leaves kinda oxymoronic, yet I use them frequently...
After reading Amanda Hessers mr. latte book, I am afraid I have grown allergic to anything of hers. She is a skilled food writer and her recipes are often very ncie but the rest of it left me in a not so good place...

[Christina]

ohhhh how i miss curry leaves! And fenugreek greens. and all the amazing, unidentifiable things in the Indian section of the Carrefour produce aisles in the UAE. Now I'm going to have to scour Washington DC for such things. I'm thinking I'm going to have to turn my front lawn into an herb garden this year.

Thanks for the trip down memory lane.

[michael jones]

That looks so tasty! I will have to try it! I believe that it will become one of my favourite picky eater recipes! Thank you for the lovely post!

[Nadia]

I made this in a matter of minutes once the squash had baked in the oven. Simply divine. Will definitely make again.