Nigel Slater's Clams with Ham and Sherry

I actually don't know what to call this post. Because I took inspiration, yes, from Nigel Slater's recipe for Clams with Ham and Sherry, but then, so inspired by his slapdash manner, I found myself improvising everything. I ended up with a succulent, savory bowlful of New Zealand cockles and chorizo. So, here's my compromise. You go and buy The Kitchen Diaries so you have Slater's original recipe, and below you'll find my interpretation of it. Deal?

I made this dish on Saturday night, after I had bulldozed my way through Slater's book and found myself overcome with a craving for shellfish and pork. To be totally honest, I had meant to make Russ Parsons' Monkfish and Clams with Chorizo for dinner, but Whole Foods had no monkfish and I was left to improvise. Also, I received a distinctly lukewarm message from Ben on the subject of fish stews, so it was probably just as well.

I hunted down chorizo in the meat department, but the only thing I could find was a fresh sausage, and I'm thinking that this recipe was perhaps meant to be made using the dried, Spanish version. But it didn't matter. This is one of those liberating recipes that really leaves everything up to your whimsy. The fresh chorizo is Mexican (right?), so there are some faint cumin notes in there, too.

The best part is that this thing is all about instant gratification. I guarantee that there are few other recipes that cook up so quickly and deliver so potently on flavor and rustic elegance. I dumped my cockles and chorizo into one bowl and served it at the table with a crusty Tom Cat baguette (for dipping in the pot liquor).

With a nice, lightly dressed salad for afterwards, this could actually be a fantastic little dinner for two. The cockles were tender and sweet, and the crumbled chorizo gave each sweet bite a pleasant kick of flavor. The parsley smoothed out the edges. It was, in two words, completely satisfying. And the kind of thing you can make once and keep in your memorized repertoire forever after. And for that alone, the book is worth buying.

And now I leave you to bite my nails over Montana and Virginia. I can barely stand it, people.

Cockles with Chorizo
Serves 4 as an appetizer

1 pound of New Zealand cockles or small clams
1 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 chorizo sausage
1/2 cup dry white wine (I used the remains of a Muscadet)
1 handful of chopped flatleaf parsley

1. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat, then add in the garlic and the sliced and diced chorizo. Cook the chorizo until the fat has rendered and the sausage is browned.

2. When everything is sizzling, add the white wine and the washed clams. Cover with a lid and let it cook for two to three minutes, until the clams have opened. Top with the chopped parsley and check for seasoning (it might need black pepper, but will need no salt).

3. Serve, in one big bowl, or in several individual ones, with lots of fresh, crusty bread for dipping.

Comments

[ann]

that's it, i'm order it NOW! god i love clams, and when nigel does clams... le sigh!

[Grant]

This sounds great! I've done a clam dish similar to this and I think I too used the uncooked Mexican version. I love the combination of the clams, white wine and chorizo. I love the Brittish love of chorizo. It's kind of everywhere over there. Their food gets such an unfair bad rap.

[Maya]

I can't stand it anymore. I have just clicked through and ordered the book from Amazon. It's going to change my life, isn't it?

[deb]

This looks so good, I wonder if it could convert me to clams. If nothing else, it would make for a very happy but husband, so win-win, right? I can't wait to see what you cook next from the book. [Also, that Whole Foods? For all the space, you think they'd spend a little less time out of things. Tsk!]

[Stephanie]

Ha! I'm biting my nails over Virginia too ... even here in Australia! And the dish looks great -- I agree about the Slater book. It's wonderful.
S

[Julie]

Great first outing with the Nigel Slater book. I don't know what it is about clams and pork that go together so but they clearly do.

[Terry B]

First, yay Montana and it's sounding like a potential yay in Virginia, but man, are they dragging their feet.

I don't know if it's the weather or the season or what, but my thoughts are definitely turning to chorizo or any kind of sausage these days. This recipe sounds like a fabulous use for them!

[Georgia]

Oh chorizo and seafood is sooo good. I'm going to have to make this. I had an entree in here in Australia of flash fried scallops topped with little rounds of spicy chorizo with a sweet smoky sauce. Heaven!

[Luisa]

Ann - Yes! Do it! You'll not regret it.

Grant - well, I think their food's bad reputation comes from a certain era (and, to be honest, certain locations. I still remember a hideous English breakfast I had 10 years ago at a strange little B&B near Southampton where a dirt ring around the bathtub gave a good indication of the kind of place we were staying at.) But, you're certainly right that British food is spectacular these days!

Maya - well, I don't know if it'll change your life, but it will certainly make your life very tasty indeed.

Deb - do you not like all mollusks, or just clams? Because you could certainly sub mussels here, for example...

Stephanie - well, it looks like all that nail-biting (and, ahem, voting) paid off! Finally.

Julie - and there's so much good stuff to come! Makes me almost want to put my newspaper clippings aside entirely...

Terry - sausage is such a nice fall food, isn't it? Homey, cozy, etc. As for Virginia, it looks like it's Webb's! I'm so pleased.

Georgia - That sounds utterly delicious! It's so nice how the salty, savory sausage really brings out the briny sweetness of shellfish. Yum!