Daniel Young's Garlic Soup with Mussels

Run, don't walk, to your local fishmonger today and buy two pounds of mussels, stat. Because I seem to be on some kind of a roll again here, and we have to take advantage of moments like this, of recipes proffered from newspapers that turn out to be recipes you will love and treasure and make over and over again. With this one, I know I will. It's labeled a soup, but I'd venture to say this is really more a stewy bowl of broth-moistened bread with all sorts of delicious things sloshing around in there. The recipe comes from Daniel Young's new book, The Bistros, Brasseries and Wine Bars of Paris that was reviewed in the LA Times. Although Young's subject is as old as the hills, this recipe alone is worth the price of the book.

I have the good fortune of having the world's best fishmonger working just a few blocks from my office. He's French and knows his metier in the way only a Frenchman can, which, I'm sure I don't need to tell you, is a relief after having stood in front of one too many other fish counters with fishmongers who don't know the difference between halibut and cod. In the 2-pound sack of mussels he gave me, there was only one mussel that didn't open in the cooking process... I'd say that's pretty great quality. And the flavor? Sweet, tender, delicious. Plus, I just get a kick out of him in general: "yes-euh, no problem-euh".

But we were talking about the recipe here: it's easy as pie. You dump your cleaned mussels in a heavy pot (I used my cast-iron one) with a cup of water and a cup of wine and bring it all to a boil to steam open the mussels for a few minutes. You drain off the mussels and save that milky, fragrant liquor. Then you saute a panful of chopped garlic, add the mussel juice and simmer it together before adding in a slurry of beaten egg yolk and vinegar. You layer toasted baguette slices, shucked mussels, and a bit of grated cheese in a bowl before pouring over the frothy broth that softens the bread and melts the cheese and bathes the mussels with gorgeous flavors.

To gild the lily, you could dust piment d'Espelette on top, or do as I did and not. I'd say the recipe makes four dainty servings - it's not a lumberjack's meal. But it's so satisfying that you won't need much more than a sharply dressed salad to follow it for a very successful dinner. I'd rather have this than moules frites any day of the week.

Garlic Soup with Mussels
Serves 4

2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded
1 cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 baguette, cut into 12 (half-inch) slices
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 cup (4 ounces) grated Gruyere
1 to 2 teaspoons piment d'Espelette or chili powder - optional

1. Place the mussels, wine and 1 cup of cold water in a large saucepan over moderately high heat. Cover and cook until the shells open, 4 to 6 minutes. Strain the mussels into a colander, collecting the juices in a bowl placed below.

2. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over low heat, add the garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, until pale gold, 3 to 4 minutes. Do not let brown.

3. Add the mussel juice to the garlic, raise the heat to medium and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to very low, and simmer for 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, remove the mussels from the shells. Lightly toast the bread.

5. Remove the soup from the heat. Combine the egg yolk, vinegar and a couple tablespoons of the soup in a mixing bowl and beat vigorously with a whisk until the mixture gets foamy. Slowly pour the mixture back into the remaining soup, continuing to beat with a whisk.

6. To serve, place a few baguette slices, 3 to 4 tablespoons of grated cheese and some mussels on the bottom of 4 wide soup bowls, cover with soup and dust with piment d'Espelette.

Comments

[evan]

If you wouldn't mind sharing your secret, where do you buy your seafood, and would you rate it higher than Citarella on 6th ave?

[pam]

oh my. drooling. now THIS i might be able to manage! :)

[Bakerina]

Oh, merciful heaven. I want to eat nothing but this for a solid week, morning, noon and night. Of course I will not worry about whether this is too much of a good thing. There is no such thing as too much of this. Thank you, dearest, both for the recipe and for your exuberant prose in describing the dish itself. It made my day.

(wracks brain to figure out where your fishmonger is :)

[cath]

hey, can I come over for dinner?

[Julie]

I need no encouragement to buy my two pounds of mussels and try this. It sounds delicious.

I also envy you having your own fishmonger. I need to work on finding one so I can stop relying on those guys behind the supermarket counter.

[Leland]

Yes, Wednesday, please reveal your source! This dish looks fabulous.

[lindy]

This is exactly what I want to eat. Probably at least once a week, for perpetuity. Now to acquire the mussels.Must hop a bus to the Strip at lunch one day this week. Again.

[Jessica Steagall]

When I saw this post, I let out a gasp, and hit control-P quicker than you can say "i love mussels"....this looks absolutely heavenly with a big glass of white wine ( I wonder what type would go best?) Thanks for the excellent site, it's one of my favorites.

[Luisa]

My secret French fishmonger actually works behind the fish counter at Garden of Eden on 14th Street and 5th Avenue. Yes, I know the store's overpriced, and I certainly hope they're paying their employees health insurance now, and that the fish used to look sad and dingy. But since this guy started working there (a few months ago), the seafood counter is a beautiful place to be. The fish is of great quality and you can have all kinds of deep conversations with the fishmonger. He's opinionated and he knows his stuff, just keep that in mind. Enjoy!

Evan - I do like Citarella, but G of E happens to be a bit closer to my office. Also, I really do think French fishmonger (I think I need to ask him his name next time) knows his stuff more than the dudes at Citarella. But that's not to say the quality's any better.

Pam - I knew it! Hope you like it.

Jen - well, thank you! And now you've made mine. Yes, luckily, eating mussels morning noon and night is probably quite good for you. One hopes.

Cath - yes, please!

Julie - not to sound like a crotchety old woman, but it really was nicer in the days when fish stores were stand-alones and had experts working there. As much as I love the convenience of supermarkets, you do lose that personal touch that means so much especially when we're talking about highly perishable and delicate foodstuffs.

Leland - not sure where you live, but maybe G of E is close to you?

Lindy - good idea!

Jessica - well, thank you so much! I am partial to dry wine, bone dry, really, so I'd suggest something like a Muscadet. Especially if you're using it in the soup. Let me know if you like it.

[yoony]

that looks so delicious! thanks for sharing the recipe. i like the simplicity of the dish and the broth sounds so good with the egg yolk and all. yumm.

[shaz]

i like how the bread gets all soaked in and carries the flavours of the seafood. yum. thanks for sharing!

[Rebecca]

This reminds me of a couple of years back when I was lucky enough to be able to accompany my husband to Belgium where his band was playing in the Belgium Rhythm and Blues Festival. Everyone probably knows this but me, but they eat mad mussels in Belgium, and there are restaurants that seem to serve nothing but mussels, huge bowls of them, in different-flavored broths, like white wine and garlic, red wine and garlic, both of the above with addition of tomato; curry, etc. Then you got lots of wonderful bread to soak up the juices, and side dishes of their delicious frites (French fries) are always served.
I was in heaven the whole time I was there!

[Gabriella True]

DROOL!!

I know my husband will love this. I have not cooked mussels in about 3 years. My fil makes them but this sounds too good to pass up.

[invierta proyectos]

my kids will love this.