I've been on a nice run of pretty good recipes lately. There are a few here and there that haven't been exactly stellar. But it's been a while since I've thrown out the results from a night in the kitchen. And on the other hand, it's been a while since I've made something so delicious that I found myself sitting dumbstruck on the couch, staring at my plate, wondering how on earth I'd be able to find the words to describe the sensation that comes from eating such good food. That's what happened last night.
The last time I'd made one of Suzanne Goin's recipes, it had come from the NY Times' review of her latest book. Yesterday I wanted to give one of her recipes chosen for the review in the LA Times a go (either Grilled Quail with Sicilian Breadcrumbs, Pancetta and Ricotta Pudding or Olive Oil Cake with Creme Fraiche and Candied Tangerines) but neither came close to piquing my curiosity. Instead, I found myself drawn back to the NY Times recipes, specifically one for Romesco Potatoes: a dish of roasted, smashed potatoes dressed with an lushly aromatic and spicy sauce.
It was, in a word, incredible. Out of this world. The kind of food that makes you push everything else to the side of your plate so you can concentrate wholly on It. In fact, I had nothing else for dinner. Which might have been a mistake, actually. The flavors of this dish are so amazing that it's almost overwhelming. It might really be best to serve this just as a side. That way you won't have your guests falling down and begging you to scrape the rest of meal off their plate so they can run back to the stove for More Potatoes. (I had an idea, too, to serve this with a runny poached egg on top, for a one-plate meal or breakfast. If you can handle that kind of breakfast. I don't think I could. It's that good. Too good.)
Although the recipe sounds a bit fiddly, it all comes together quickly. You roast a handful of nuts before taking them out and sliding in a sheet of potatoes, bay leaves, thyme, salt and unpeeled garlic cloves to roast. You process the nuts with a slice of fried bread, more garlic, a small amount of canned tomatoes, olive oil, lemon juice, and ancho chiles (though because I am a chile idiot, I used chiles de arbol. I have no idea if this made a difference or not. I know nothing, but nothing, about chiles. Except that up until 10 months ago I wanted nothing whatsoever to do with them. Now I am sidling up to them sheepishly, eyeing them askance, wondering if I can ever start to make up for lost time).
When the potatoes are tender, you take the sheet out and crush the potatoes (I used the flat side of a spatula), put them in a hot, oiled pan with more fresh thyme on top and let them cook until crispy and browned on each side. Then you dollop in the entire bowl (all of it!) of romesco and the squeezed out bits of roasted garlic. You stir everything together and top with a handful of chopped parsley. Settle down to eat this, and stare in bewilderment at your plate as you chew. Roasted and raw garlic! Toasted nuts! Fried bread! Mellow thyme! Hot chiles! Creamy potatoes! It's an explosion of textures and sensations and flavors that left me speechless. Ben saw his opening and finished off the whole lot. Cheeky monkey.
This sounds fantastic! I just got that new book and this potatoes were in fact among the first things on my to try list. Now I shoud really start cooking them
Love your blog, keep coming quite often..Cheers from Brussels,Zsofi
Posted by: Zsofi | February 14, 2006 at 12:57 PM
This PLUS a medium runny poached egg? You're right- I don't think I could handle it. This looks absolutely mouthwateringly crispy and meltingly creamy at the same time. Forget chocolate body paint- maybe I'll slather some of this on my sweetie for Valentines.
Just kidding. Sort of.
Posted by: tokyoastrogirl | February 14, 2006 at 04:52 PM
I'm not usually one for potatoes, but this sounds like a scrumptious combination of tastes, textures and spices. The photo is gorgeous, too!
Posted by: Tania | February 14, 2006 at 07:29 PM
Guess what I'm serving for my next dinner party? Your superlative descriptions have me drooling.
Posted by: Jenny | February 14, 2006 at 08:02 PM
Oh man. This one has everything. I'm almost afraid to make it. And a poached egg? Woooo.
I've been looking at the Goins book in the bookstore at lunch.Like I need another one.
Posted by: Lindy | February 14, 2006 at 08:20 PM
Okay, after reading your post I have now saved this recipe as a definite one to try--thanks! I am especially intrigued by the fried bread, which by coincidence I just heard of the concept earlier this week on The Amateur Gourmet. I look forward to trying it out!
Posted by: Kristin | February 14, 2006 at 09:19 PM
Suzanne's great, and you certainly did justice to her recipe! Bravo..
Posted by: David | February 15, 2006 at 02:34 AM
i love suzanne goin's romesco sauce! i know exactly what you mean by speechless. i recently had a baked potato party for which i made the romesco sauce and served it along with roasted garlic butter, bacon, chives and sour cream. you should also try out her roasted sweet potatoes with romesco, also equally delicious.
Posted by: yoony | February 15, 2006 at 11:45 AM
Yoony - Sweet potatoes, interesting. I'll have to try it sometime when I dare to eat the romesco again!
David - thanks! With the kind of food she makes, she MUST be lovely.
Kristin - I hope you like it. It's quite a dish! The fried bread really makes a difference in the sauce, giving it body and texture.
Lindy - that's EXACTLY it. Almost too much to take!. And I'm with you on the book. My stepmother has a copy so I'll drool over it next time I'm visiting them.
Jenny - thank you! Let me know what you think when you've made it.
Tania - thanks! This dish could make anyone love potatoes, I think.
Anne - well, did you slather this on anybody? I think the hot peppers would make that somewhat uncomfortable, but maybe just to some people's liking! Anyway, it really is that good.
Zsofi - I'm so glad you like the blog. And if you have the book, get cooking! Try the potatoes, but also the braised leeks. They're out of this world.
Posted by: Luisa | February 15, 2006 at 02:59 PM
I have gotten Suzanne Goin's book recently and taking a suggestion from one of your previous post tried the braised leeks. They were fantastic. Now I can hardly wait to try these potatoes.
Your discription and photograph make them sound amazing!
Jimmi
Posted by: jimmi | February 15, 2006 at 03:19 PM
Well your description definitely sums up the unbelievable flavours and textures of this great recipe. I made it last night, and it was very well received. I think I would make it with a less assertive extra virgin olive oil or just plain olive oil next time, as the flavour of my punchy fruity Greek one seemed to dominate. Also, the sauce did seem a wee bit oily, so I would probably try to incorporate a little hot water or vinegar next time. I have to say though, that while it was delicious last night with all sorts of superlatives being uttered at the dinner table, the next day it got even better. Very worthwhile recipe and I could see the sauce being used in a number of applications: spread, dip, on grilled fish, etc. What a lovely addition to my repertoire, thank you for trying it out for us!
Posted by: Jenny | February 17, 2006 at 04:19 PM
Luisa -- I cannot wait to try these. I'm utterly enamored of potatoes and these made my mouth water...And I'm with Ben: I would have finished the whole thing too!
Posted by: cath | February 17, 2006 at 07:38 PM
jimmi - I'll be hiding out in the basement with your copy of the book next weekend.
Jenny - so glad you tried this. I used a pretty mild olive oil, so I'd recommend that. There's just so much going on in that sauce otherwise! I had a look at the cookbook yesterday at Barnes & Noble, and Goin does suggest using the sauce in all kinds of dishes - on meat, fish, and so on. Continuing in the egg theme, I think coddled eggs with a spoonful of romesco could be pretty great, too. Thanks for letting me know what you thought!
Cath - I hope you like them; I'll bet you will!
Posted by: Luisa | February 18, 2006 at 11:44 AM