Michael Ruhlman's Savory Bacon

Well, I promised, didn't I? I herewith break the curse of the starch post epidemic I was suffering from to present you with a 3.3 pound piece of pork belly. Rubbed and cured and massaged and roasted, it's actually now a 3.3 pound piece of bacon. That sound you hear? My (almost) vegetarian father and kitchen-phobic mother falling over backwards as they stare in disbelief at the computer screen. That's right, I went to the butcher a week ago, I bought a piece of pork belly the size of my head, and now I proudly own more bacon than Ma and Pa Ingalls would know what to do with.

Last November, Michael Ruhlman wrote an article for the New York Times about the glories of curing your own meat, having just published a book on this same subject. Included with the article was a recipe for bacon and one for corned beef. Ruhlman writes that home-cured bacon is cheaper and tastier than the kind you buy in a store (and certainly the brine-pumped bacon slices shrink-wrapped in the refrigerated section of the store paled in comparison with the hunk of meat in my kitchen). I also figured the challenge of hunting down the ingredients, finding the patience for a week-long preparation, and overcoming any feelings I might have about seven-day old raw meat resting in such close proximity to my living quarters would add to the fun. So I took Ruhlman's bait.

First, let me tell you right away: if you live in New York, go straight to Florence Meat Market on Jones Street to buy your pork belly (if you've never eaten at Inside or been to Florence Meat Market, make sure you try their Newport steak sometime - it is possibly the most delicious meat I've ever eaten.) Their pork belly costs $2.99 a pound, which, compared to the prices here and here and here, is practically getting it for free. You have to call in advance to order it, but it takes no less than a day or two to arrive. When I got down to the butcher to pick up the belly and was confronted with the porcine terror that is a 5-pound piece of pork, I begged them to let me buy just a little bit less. They kindly agreed on 3.3 pounds, and wrapped it beautifully. Florence's is a fantastic place - I hope it stays in business for a long time.

Back home, I mixed up the cure and smeared it all over the belly. I put the belly in a Zip-loc bag, wrapped it up in butcher paper and put it in my fridge for a seven days of rest. But the next morning, confronted with the raw-meat-and-garlic stench smell in the early morning hours, I removed the package and marched it over to Ben's place. It was just too much to handle. Sweet Ben complied and let the belly rest at his place for the week. Every other day, the package was flipped. When the seven days were over, I rinsed the belly well. There is something profoundly ridiculous about standing at a sink and cleaning an enormous piece of meat that you have absolutely no idea how you're ever going to consume. But these were not the intrepid thoughts of a homespun bacon-curer, no! So I banished them from my mind and forged ahead.

The belly was placed on a rack on top of a baking sheet and slowly roasted at a low temperature until the interior temperature measured 150 degrees. It took my oven about 2 and a half hours. The bacon then rested until cool, at which point I sliced it up into different-sized portions. Ruhlman says you can refrigerate the bacon for two weeks or freeze it. I'm thinking of cooking up some for dinner tonight, so I can report on how it actually tastes. But then, I wonder: after Sunday breakfast, beef stew, Southern cornbread, and hostess gifts, I will still have more bacon than I'll know what to do with. Luisa's Homemade Bacon - just $2.99 a pound?

Comments

[Molly]

Bravo, Luisa! You're a brave woman, and a damn funny one too. I can imagine myself approaching this sort of project with the same mix of excitement and trepidation - sure, the challenge and intrigue of making my own bacon is one thing, but what would I do with the stuff? Maybe I'm not hardcore enough when it comes to pork belly. For the sake of foodie-ism, I'll have to work on that, I guess. I wonder if a taste of your homemade stuff might do the trick...

[Kate]

Luisa, Brava! the bacoon looks delicious and Judy has just the "fridays with fergus" recipe to use on the motherpig site. 3.3 pounds will disappear in just a few bites!

[Zarah Maria]

Oh wow, that is just too cool a project! I'd love to try doing that some time! And I loved this: "now I proudly own more bacon than Ma and Pa Ingalls would know what to do with" - you funny Luisa!;-)

[divinacucina]

Florence market in New York.. and I am in Florence Market in FLorence.
I made Fergus' Roasted brined pork.

I just ate it after I roasted it, he has a three day wet brine.
Loved it.. can envision a gourmet BLT in the summer with fresh tomatoes.

Thanks for participating in the Pork blogging weekend!

[Lindy]

I'll be there for my pound when Luisa's homemade bacon stand opens.

The only thing that prevented me from trying this myself, when I first read about it, was the absolute unavailaility of pork belly on the Pittsburgh retail market. How do I know?

Well, I checked.

Sometimes living in a non-major sort of city saves me from myself!

[David]

My hat off to you for taking on such a great endeavor!! I'll be over for breakfast!

[Ivonne]

Welcome to the wonderful world of meat curing! That pork looks lovely ... my compliments to the chef!

[shauna]

Luisa, you rock. I'm serious. You're a woman after my own heart, if you plunked down money for pounds of pork belly and made your own back. Yowser.

I'm coming to New York in a month for a visit. Do you think you might still have some of this left over?

[Robin]

Wow! So how did it taste? You must share.

Speaking of the Ingallses, I wonder whether you've ever had salt pork? I've always been so curious.

[Joan]

I'll come and buy my bacon at your store anytime. Mummy, however, is not 'kitchen phobic' but an excellent cook when she must. Love.

[Podchef]

Wow, good stuff. After 7 days, though I think you could have forgone cooking the bacon and hung it up to air cure--no refrigeration necessary. If it tastes too salty, remember, it's not ruined. Just slice it up fine and use for stews and soups as both an ingredient and a seasoning. Good luck with your next porky project--chorizo maybe?

[David]

impressive...I'll take 2 pounds, thickly-sliced! Where do I order?

[Luisa]

David - I'll let you know when the store's open ;)

Podchef - when I've made my way through this piece of meat, I'll probably never eat pig again. But I'll keep you posted on the homemade chorizo.

Joan - she definitely is a good cook! She just hates doing it.

Robin - stay tuned on the taste. As for salt pork, I've never had it and am just as curious as you!

Shauna - you'll have to come over for breakfast, or at least let me fill your pockets with bacon. :)

Ivonne - thank you! Let's see how it tastes...

David - thank you!

Lindy - I almost didn't find the pork belly here, which made me feel partially relieved and partially disappointed.

Judy - thanks for letting me participate!

Zarah Maria - it really is pretty simple: you just need that darn belly and space in your fridge.

Kate - thank you! Looking forward to participating.

Molly - thank you, sweets! You'll just have to have some. Or maybe Shauna can bring some back for you? Sorry I missed you this weekend.

[Sasha]

Wow! What wonderful things exist beyond the realm of myth and legend! My sad floppy shrink wrapped bacon will need therapy after this...

[Luisa]

Sasha - I'll tell that to the bacon sitting in my freezer! :)

[Tana]

Wow!

[johnaka]

The link for the bacon recipe says "15-pound slab pork belly" but Michael Ruhlman says that this is a typo on the website. It should be a 5# slab, which is much clearer in print.

[Luisa]

Johnaka - the NY Times didn't put a space between the 1 and the 5. It is one five pound slab of pork belly... 15 pounds - I shudder to think.