Japanese Imbiss Heno Heno

Yes, folks, another day, another lunch spot on Kantstraße. I can't help it! It's my little Asiatown.

Actually, Heno Heno is also open for dinner. It's a little sliver of a Japanese Imbiss around the corner from Stuttgarter Platz and I first read about it on Mel's blog. It's really a hole-in-the-wall: There's a counter with stools and then three tiny little tables only big enough for two rather slim eaters. (A warning: There's no restroom.) The vibe is all rather relaxed and homey, which befits the simple menu. Also, there's always good music playing.

Heno Heno serves homestyle Japanese cooking, with almost no sushi in sight (the exception being oshi sushi, an Osakan method of making sushi by pressing rice and herring, in this case, together in a wooden box). There are a few simple appetizers (house-pickled vegetables and onigiri are the plan for my next visit), a few rice dishes topped with meat or vegetables and an array of noodle soups (either udon or soba). That's pretty much it.

The first time I went, I had an udon soup that seemed a lot murkier and grainier than I'd been used to at the noodle shops I used to go to in New York. But it certainly tasted quite authentic, nice and seaweedy and sweet with miso.

The next time, I couldn't resist the edamame (which came at room temperature, sadly; I'd kind of wanted them piping hot), which were delicious - I spooned a little bit of the spice mixture from its beautiful bowl with that delicate little spoon onto the edamame plate and then dunked each bean into the pepper.

For my lunch, I ordered the vegetarian don with an egg on top - the smallest size. Perfect for my appetite, I could just about finish it. What you get is a bowl of hot rice topped with a very molten poached egg, ground sesame seeds, slivered seaweed, cooked greens, sliced scallions, a few mushrooms and shredded carrots. If there was more in there, it was well camouflaged. Using your chopsticks, you hack and mix everything together until you have a fragrant, sweet-salty, chewy mixture of rice and vegetables and sticky egg yolk clumping together under your chopsticks.

With a mug or two of hoji-cha, roasted green tea, it was just the thing for a gray day. Sitting at a small table, marveling at the tiny wooden pepper spoon, a ceramic tea cup nestle in my hands and a few simple Japanese cooking instruments hung over the stove, I almost felt like I'd been teleported somewhere far away. I love that feeling.


Heno Heno
Kantstraße 65
10627 Berlin
(030) 663 073 70

Comments

[Leslie]

Thanks for yet another round of great tips, Luisa. I found myself in Pberg on Thursday looking up your blog on my mobile phone to find the name and address of Sasaya, which provided me with a very happy oasis of a lunch amidst a stressful week. I'll look forward to trying Heno Heno and your other tips as well.

Funnily, my sister, who briefly lived in Berlin near Kottbusser Tor, was visiting earlier this week and, during a walk in Kreuzberg, told us about a dough-on-the-oven-wall bread place on Kottbusser Damm, about two blocks from your place. We didn't go there, but we did take your tip and go to Angry Chicken! Sadly, none of us went for the Furious Chicken and we found the other hotness levels basically not hot at all. Aside from that, however, the chicken was delicious. Again, thanks for the tip!

[Suzy]

You are exceedingly good demystifying Kanstrasse for us all!

[Ellen]

Love your writing, Luisa!

In Japan, edamame are always served room temperature, for what it's worth.

[Luisa]

Ellen - a-ha! Thank you for that piece of info! (And the kind words!)

[Maria]

Thanks - I had a great meal yesterday! ^^

[Shirin]

ooh, I love this place! the food tastes so homemade and delicious and the cooks are so friendly.

[Richrd]

Luisa, this blog makes me want to visit Germany so badly. I love reading about your suggestions!

[Luisa]

Maria - thrilled to hear it!

Shirin - glad you agree.

Richard - that is so nice to hear. :)

[berlin hair baby]

yay, so glad I had the chance to visit this little spot before I left. you did a lovely job at re-creating the atmosphere for me xo

[Tomoko Tahara]

I was checking out dinner recipes and reach out here..I love your blog...I was forgetting about to check out recipe for a while..
such a cute store! I like their name - the veggie don looks yummy.

[Eric]

Just discovered your blog and I M quite impressed with your writing. As a photographer, though, I think your site could benefit from better photography. Most photos seem to detract attention from the great content. Not trying to be critical, but just providing an observation. Loved your book cover photo, though.